Applying a Veneer to a LP carve top

[69GTLP]

Has anyone done this before? I bought a LP body off ebay that was painted with a gold metalic, I stripped off the poly finish and the top is a three piece top that is super fugly. I got this to practice on, the neck was busted. Anyway I found some super nice looking curly maple veneer at Rockler and picked it up cheap. Any hints or help would be great.

 

[FLICKOFLASH]

Actually Magic Johnson just sent me pix last night of a 54 he just did. He even removed the binding . shaved the top for the veneer & filled the p-90 routes, vacum applied the veneer & reistalled the original binding & rerouted for humbuckers ,It looks like a true 59 .

 

[pinefd]

Not that I've ever done it before, but I believe the best (and possibly only) way to apply veneer to a carved top guitar would be by using a vacuum press system, and I'm not sure it's worth the cost and effort.

Edit: I see Flick and I posted at virtually the same time. And if you're doing a high end guitar as he noted, then it's worth the cost and effort, but with a low end guitar, it wouldn't...IMO.

 

[69GTLP]

What about using 50lb bags of sand that would conform to the body? If I had 200lbs of force on top of it do you think that might work? I agree using vacuum pressure is out of the question for me.

 

[Csharp]

For the builders - Could the veneer be formed to the top before gluing. I'm thinking maybe wet the veneer, then weight with a breathable sandbag until dry? It would depend on the thickness of the new face and the depth of the carve in the body, but seems possible as an alternative to a vacuum setup. Thoughts?

 

[eshuffle]

Use this spray to get the veneer more workable. It softens up the veneer so it's not so brittle.

Pro-Glue Veneer Softener - Woodcraft.com

 

[Csharp]

$9.99 for a pint! Hell, Windex does the same thing.

 

[Sgt.Pepper]

Hot sand works well. You just have to leave it several days before taking the pressure off. The centre joint is quite tricky but can be held with paper veneer tape. Heat the sand in a pan for about 40 mins then use two pillow cases, one inside the other to put the sand in. Fold the edges to the centre, cover with a board and apply as many cramps as you can get on. I've made 335 style guitars in a plaster cast this way. The sand shouldn't be too hot (not over 200 C) otherwise it will burn the veneer, make it brittle and split.
Hide glue is the most forgiving, but formaldehyde glues can work well too.

 

[Wuchak]

Cool that you can use sand for this. I knew there had to be some way to do it with a vacuum setup since master craftsmen have been using veneers for a thousand years on furniture. Long before any vacuums existed.

 

[Kølabrennern]

Take a look at this: Project Guitar :: Adding a Figured Wood Veneer Top

Haven't read through it myself, but it seems useful.

 

[jimi55lp]

The only time I've had it done, was on a JR with flat top. I foung a cabinet maker close to my home that had a vacuum bag rig and in didn't cost much because the mahogany was cheap and didn't need to center seam or book match, it came out great considering what was under it, removed a Kahler trem which used a mortise about the size of a pack of cigarettes. we needed to build a jig to support the neck, neck joint, and the control cavity so they couldn't be crushed.

 

[The Stumble]

Scott Lentz wrote the book on applying a veneer to a les paul why dont you give him a call

heres my Lentz 53 to 59 les paul conversion

 

[single cut 54]

Scott Lentz wrote the book on applying a veneer to a les paul why dont you give him a call

heres my Lentz 53 to 59 les paul conversion

Thats the first time I've seen any reference to Mr. Lentz on this Forum.
His skills and reputation are internationally acknowledged and yet ,no mention up untill now.

 

[FLICKOFLASH]

Actually Magic Johnson just sent me pix last night of a 54 he just did. He even removed the binding . shaved the top for the veneer & filled the p-90 routes, vacum applied the veneer & reinstalled the original binding & rerouted for humbuckers ,It looks like a true 59 .

 

[FLICKOFLASH]

Thats the first time I've seen any reference to Mr. Lentz on this Forum.
His skills and reputation are internationally acknowledged and yet ,no mention up untill now.

Mr. Lentz finishes to me are too high gloss

 

[alexvdl]

HOTDAMN, thats gotta cost a fortune. Any idea of the price for a veneer job like that on a LP classic?

 

[69GTLP]

Use this spray to get the veneer more workable. It softens up the veneer so it's not so brittle.

Pro-Glue Veneer Softener - Woodcraft.com

There is also this I saw there

Vacuum Press Kit With Manual Pump - Woodcraft.com

Seems like a inexpensive way to go and you could reuse it over and over.
I think I am going to take a chance on that.

 

[alexvdl]

14" is that wide enough? I'm more into metric sizes

 

[69GTLP]

14" is that wide enough? I'm more into metric sizes

A LP body is 13" wide, the only worry would be how much thickness would fit in the bag. I figure for the price I'm going to give it a try.

I have four sheets of flamed maple veneer 8"x30" so enough to do 2 tops. I plan on doing the LP body in this and a Flying V

 

[FLICKOFLASH]

This is great for those buggered tops & it retains all the old wood & original binding . Veneer can be put onto backs as well to hide damage & you would never know it was there