WTF binding woes..

pavel

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I know they have cellulose binding that is more of an Ivory. But it's cellulose. Very good, but not what I am after on this.

This stuff? From the pics, it looks to have a bit of a stripe going on. I wonder what it's like in real life. I would try some but the hazmat charge for celluloid shipping is crazy.
 

LtDave32

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This stuff? From the pics, it looks to have a bit of a stripe going on. I wonder what it's like in real life. I would try some but the hazmat charge for celluloid shipping is crazy.
Yep. that's the ivoroid. nice stuff, but I've already got a good amount of the Bartlet binding. Also celluloid.
 

Roxy13

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What are the differences between working with ABS or celluloid.

Here I was planning to buy the bwbw laminated binding from LMI to help me out with the SG headstocks, but sounds like it's problematic.
 

Wallied

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What are the differences between working with ABS or celluloid.

Here I was planning to buy the bwbw laminated binding from LMI to help me out with the SG headstocks, but sounds like it's problematic.
Need to be more careful about heating celluloid, as it's flammamble. Celluloid is also softer and tends to bend easier than abs, which makes it generally easier to use. For pre-laminated binding, I'd personally go for the celluloid, as I usually run into fewer problems doing sharper bends with it than ABS.

As for the original question, it sounds somewhat familiar from trying to use acetone with acrylic inlays. Dissolves slightly, just enough to make it milky, and leaving the material gummy. It's brittle and prone to chipping as well. The only strange part is the form. Never heard of acrylic binding existing.

Aaand now I got a flashback from back when I was working in a plastics factory. New brand of pellets led to a sheet of cream instead of white ABS, just perfect for binding. But the boss just wouldn't let me buy it and instead had me put it in the shredder for reusing in something else :doh:

Regards, Will
 

voices

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:rofl:

I have six or so feet of that stuff, Dan. If anybody wants it, they can have it.
how much? im not particular with color as im just learning stuff and want to try a bound guitar. you can email me the deets!

ronaroll at gmail
 

fatdaddypreacher

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One would think that with the feedback Stew Mac has been getting (and it has been a lot, me included) then they would do something about their ABS binding color in cream.

I know they have cellulose binding that is more of an Ivory. But it's cellulose. Very good, but not what I am after on this.

They need to fix that barf binding color.
i thought the same thing, but in an email reply to my complaint, they said they have no control over the color. I thought that odd. I have ordered humbucker covers from them and got some that was very very nice. didn't have that gawsh awful pink. that's when i asked them if they changed vendors or formula and they responded as i mentioned. i have gone to allparts and have been pleased.
 

fatdaddypreacher

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What are the differences between working with ABS or celluloid.

Here I was planning to buy the bwbw laminated binding from LMI to help me out with the SG headstocks, but sounds like it's problematic.
roxy, i've been well pleased with allparts cream. it's a nice color and works well, and is affordable. i don't build vintage, but the sm pink is hideous
 

Roxy13

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roxy, i've been well pleased with allparts cream. it's a nice color and works well, and is affordable. i don't build vintage, but the sm pink is hideous

I'm only seeing 0.040" in cream and 0.060 in rippled cream. Wouldn't I need at least 0.060 for the body?

 

Roxy13

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If we are talking LP specs you really need .090” I know Allparts doesn’t have it. It’s a bummer

Yes, I'm looking for a LP. I'd rather not spend the money on the Bartlett binding for these first two.

For the SG custom headstocks I guess I'm going to have to laminate the black and white, in which case I'm not too concerned about using the SM binding since those aren't cream colored.
 

LtDave32

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I'm only seeing 0.040" in cream and 0.060 in rippled cream. Wouldn't I need at least 0.060 for the body?


Yes Rox, you need .060 for the body binding, I believe.

That's for LPs. For SG Necks, you need .090. I know that sounds odd, but that's how it is. I've got an SG, a historic LP and a 335 in my shop right now. All are bound. Those are the measurements.
 

Roxy13

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What if you want the thin vintage neck binding with the nibs that are just over the very ends of the frets? I figured that was probably 0.060 although I should measure some gutiars to see.
 

pshupe

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What if you want the thin vintage neck binding with the nibs that are just over the very ends of the frets? I figured that was probably 0.060 although I should measure some gutiars to see.

Neck binding on a 59 Les Paul, and I think most of those vintage Gibsons that had neck binding, is very thin. Like 0.040" on the neck and about 0.080" for body binding. Tom's royalite body binding is 5/16" high x 0.090" wide.

Cheers Peter.
 

Roxy13

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Neck binding on a 59 Les Paul, and I think most of those vintage Gibsons that had neck binding, is very thin. Like 0.040" on the neck and about 0.080" for body binding. Tom's royalite body binding is 5/16" high x 0.090" wide.

Cheers Peter.

I don't like big, chunky nibs. I had to sand them all down on my Gibson LP I used to have. But, I do like the small, vintage looking ones that are on several of my MIJs.

It's crazy that you can't get decent cream binding anywhere other than Tom's. I don't mind ponying up for his once I get some builds done and I am feeling more confident, but until then I'm looking for a less expensive option. My first two singlecut projects are those Tokai bodies and necks I bought in Japan when they auctioned them off. And I planned to get them ready for finishing as soon as the holidays are over and shipping normalizes some. I have a lost SM package right now of things I bought on Cyber Monday, and I live in Ohio! I got all the expensive tools I still needed on BF and CM sales. So now it's time to bind those bodies, fretboards, etc and get them ready to go for when things warm up.

My other 2 projects are both SGs. The Tokai body and neck I also bought on auction and the scratch build that I'm waiting on Tom's plans for. Those will both be 3 pickup customs. The Tokai is routed for 3 HBs and my scratch build will be for 3 P90s.
 

nuance97

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Neck binding on a 59 Les Paul, and I think most of those vintage Gibsons that had neck binding, is very thin. Like 0.040" on the neck and about 0.080" for body binding. Tom's royalite body binding is 5/16" high x 0.090" wide.

Cheers Peter.
That’s about what I shoot for...maybe a touch thinner on the FB binding ~ 1/32”
 

nuance97

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I don't like big, chunky nibs. I had to sand them all down on my Gibson LP I used to have. But, I do like the small, vintage looking ones that are on several of my MIJs.

It's crazy that you can't get decent cream binding anywhere other than Tom's. I don't mind ponying up for his once I get some builds done and I am feeling more confident, but until then I'm looking for a less expensive option. My first two singlecut projects are those Tokai bodies and necks I bought in Japan when they auctioned them off. And I planned to get them ready for finishing as soon as the holidays are over and shipping normalizes some. I have a lost SM package right now of things I bought on Cyber Monday, and I live in Ohio! I got all the expensive tools I still needed on BF and CM sales. So now it's time to bind those bodies, fretboards, etc and get them ready to go for when things warm up.

My other 2 projects are both SGs. The Tokai body and neck I also bought on auction and the scratch build that I'm waiting on Tom's plans for. Those will both be 3 pickup customs. The Tokai is routed for 3 HBs and my scratch build will be for 3 P90s.
There’s nothing wrong with using .060” on a body...as Peter says above you’re shooting for .080” after final sanding, and a .020” difference isn’t that meaningful in the whole scheme. For a 1st LP build when your confidence isn’t 1000% go for the .060” and on your next one pony up for the Bartlett stuff
 

Roxy13

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Actually Allparts does have the 0.060 in cream, it just looks like they don't. But, if you click the clear square after the black one it shows up! I just ordered some of that and some of the 0.040 then for the fretboards too.

Thanks, everyone! These first 2 singlecuts are my learning projects for neck shaping, inlaying and binding fretboards, binding bodies and finishing skills.
 

fatdaddypreacher

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Actually Allparts does have the 0.060 in cream, it just looks like they don't. But, if you click the clear square after the black one it shows up! I just ordered some of that and some of the 0.040 then for the fretboards too.

Thanks, everyone! These first 2 singlecuts are my learning projects for neck shaping, inlaying and binding fretboards, binding bodies and finishing skills.
ive done nibs with 040. you just have to sneak up on it.
 

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