Working on a DIY LP Stnrd Kit

[CherryBurstChaser]

Its the clear on top that you don't want to sand through. You'll be into colour (and have to re-spray) long before that.

But oversanding is certainly an issue.

Yea that's what I meant to say. I'm shooting a lot of clear over this amber (overdoing it) to try to safeguard against sanding into the color. I sprayed much sealer directly on the wood in case something goes really really wrong and I have to start over.

 

[ARandall]

Are you just doing amber, or are you doing a burst?? Typically I see the more experienced spray painters able to do the whole burst in a day. If you start with sanded sealer coats, you put on the first colour (usually a coat or two is enough intensity) and then seal this with a coat or two of clear. Then the outer colour gets done, and some clear perhaps too.
I was given advice to scrape the binding only a few hours after the colour too, before it hardens (which makes it more likely to chip). So all colour must therefore be done etc in the one day.

I'm in the process of bursting a LP too, and having just scraped binding that was left too long, I'd agree with this advice.

The strat was hell to do, and that was only a couple of days after colour - the LP was torture, and it chipped badly too. This was because it had the first colour applied two seasons ago before winter set in, and now in spring I'm doing the outside.

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

Are you just doing amber, or are you doing a burst?? Typically I see the more experienced spray painters able to do the whole burst in a day. If you start with sanded sealer coats, you put on the first colour (usually a coat or two is enough intensity) and then seal this with a coat or two of clear. Then the outer colour gets done, and some clear perhaps too.
I was given advice to scrape the binding only a few hours after the colour too, before it hardens (which makes it more likely to chip). So all colour must therefore be done etc in the one day.

I'm in the process of bursting a LP too, and having just scraped binding that was left too long, I'd agree with this advice.

The strat was hell to do, and that was only a couple of days after colour - the LP was torture, and it chipped badly too. This was because it had the first colour applied two seasons ago before winter set in, and now in spring I'm doing the outside.

Thanks for stopping by dude. Scraping binding is something I'm prone to screwing it up. So any advice I can get will help. Thanks for the tip. It makes sense. What do you use?
It sounds like maybe I don't need to wait so long to sand the clear b/t coats. I'd say I've got about 3 coats of clear over it now. I do work slow. I am majorly inexperienced, I need to think through how I want it to look....possibilities. I practice on scrap, and when I start getting consistent, smooth coverage, I'll spray this burst. Some pics after shooting the clear over the amber. I have not yet sanded it.

That Strat you have there is really sharp. What did you use to scrape the binding? That burst on your LP is pretty flame-y. How did you do it..finishing schedule, paint, equipment etc? What was the original finish? Is that a wrap bridge-piece?
PS: what size is the eye-hook you're hanging the LP from? It would be very helpful if I could start doing that, but I need the hole to be a size my strap-locks can screw into.

 

[ARandall]

Thanks!

For hanging, I just bought some small hooks that looked like they were a similar thread/shaft size to the screws for the straps (take them to the hardware store - I'm in Australia so the sizes tend to be in metric).

The flame was pretty strong in the wood, but it is enhanced by the clearcoat....this gives the depth and reflectiveness. Also not too much colour is good too. This tends to hide the flame.

As to the schedule, I went through various threads on this forum - Bartlett, Ex Nihlio, Greco's twin 59 build as well as John Bauer's 59 build. They give some great details, each one giving some detailed info that the other's don't. The scraping info I just got from a guy on the Duncan forum - a bit late for these paintjobs, as they were too dry already!! I used an exacto-knife blade, as it had more structural integrity for the dry paint. I'm sure a razorblade would be fine for soft paint.

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

Thanks!

For hanging, I just bought some small hooks that looked like they were a similar thread/shaft size to the screws for the straps (take them to the hardware store - I'm in Australia so the sizes tend to be in metric).

The flame was pretty strong in the wood, but it is enhanced by the clearcoat....this gives the depth and reflectiveness. Also not too much colour is good too. This tends to hide the flame.

As to the schedule, I went through various threads on this forum - Bartlett, Ex Nihlio, Greco's twin 59 build as well as John Bauer's 59 build. They give some great details, each one giving some detailed info that the other's don't. The scraping info I just got from a guy on the Duncan forum - a bit late for these paintjobs, as they were too dry already!! I used an exacto-knife blade, as it had more structural integrity for the dry paint. I'm sure a razorblade would be fine for soft paint.

Thanks dude. I got the wiring harness and switch from Jonesy today. He also hooked me up with some free Slinky 10s! Up here a those are $10.00/pack. I also got the holly veneers I ordered and shielding paint. It's become abundantly clear to me that I lack the time, know-how and tools do make a veneer for this project. That's OK though. I'll put the inlay directly into the headstock.
Q: What tool do people use to route out the delicate, shallow shapes in the fretboard and headstock for inlay?

 

[ARandall]

A. Either a dremel or a small router (laminate trimmer). Stewmac has a cradle for the dremel so you can use it like a router.
Also needed - very steady hands.

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

I shot the first passes of cherry red around the edges last night
I does not look good.

I'm a lil embarrassed about posting up pics of it. I feel like I should have just left it solid vintage amber instead of trying this burst. Fuuuuuuu.......
Is this even fixable w/out starting all over?

 

[madebydave]

I shot the first passes of cherry red around the edges last night
I does not look good.

I'm a lil embarrassed about posting up pics of it. I feel like I should have just left it solid vintage amber instead of trying this burst. Fuuuuuuu.......
Is this even fixable w/out starting all over?

You can fix with a darker shade of red (it needs some blue in it) just a light coat or two over the whole front (mist) with heavier application at the extreme ends (1/2 inch to 1 inch only).

I did this with the Stewmac rattle cans too, but used amber and red mahogany.

Do 1 or two light coats at a time then live with it for a day and decide if you want it darker or lighter. Adding more amber (and even clear) will lighten it, but it may take some time.

Custom 6 Strings - Custom Handmade Guitars

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

You can fix with a darker shade of red (it needs some blue in it) just a light coat or two over the whole front (mist) with heavier application at the extreme ends (1/2 inch to 1 inch only).

I did this with the Stewmac rattle cans too, but used amber and red mahogany.

Do 1 or two light coats at a time then live with it for a day and decide if you want it darker or lighter. Adding more amber (and even clear) will lighten it, but it may take some time.

Custom 6 Strings - Custom Handmade Guitars

Wheeew. Thank you bro! I have a 3/4 of a can of cherry red and a full can of tobacco brown. You think that will be enough paint to give me a real shot at fixing this? I knew I should have saved some amber. I shouldn't be rushing to get this done before I move. It's not like I can't resume the project after I relocate. Thanks again dude. This is the kinda thing I'd be distracted by all day long at work. This morning when I got up and looked at it, I almost puked.

 

[andreww]

Looks like you went a bit overboard on the red bud. You really only want to hit about an inch from the edge. Doesn't look like there is much amber left as you've pretty much covered it in red. Might be a good time to sand it back and start from scratch.

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

You really only want to hit about an inch from the edge.

I aimed it that way, but it's like over-spray all the over the top....like red As far as starting from scratch, I dunno. This could be a good opportunity for me to learn how to fix mistakes like this. Because there will be other guitars, and other mistakes, and I won't always be able to go back to square one.

 

[marijnsloth]

If the wide burst was a result of over-spray... the trick is to spray from the inside out. Angle your can so that you spray from the centre of the guitar body towards the edge. This gives you better control over the edge of the darker colour and lessens the chance of overspray in the centre

 

[ARandall]

I aimed it that way, but it's like over-spray all the over the top....like red As far as starting from scratch, I dunno. This could be a good opportunity for me to learn how to fix mistakes like this. Because there will be other guitars, and other mistakes, and I won't always be able to go back to square one.

You don't aim the centre of the can at an inch.....you aim an inch from the very edge of the spray pattern at the binding. 95% of the paint misses the guitar typically. Its like everything....you need to try a few times on other bits of wood before you hit the guitar.

 

[greenhorn]

Make sure you warm the can in a sink of WARM water first so the paint mists better and is less likely to build up on the nozzle and spit a blob of red directly where you DONT want it.

When spraying keep the can upright too so juuuust in case there is some nozzle build up it'll hopefully fall on the can rather then....again....directly where you dont want it.

If you dont already, just get in the habbit of checking the nozzle regularly when using rattle cans.



Dont give up, its still looking good.

 

[andreww]

You don't aim the centre of the can at an inch.....you aim an inch from the very edge of the spray pattern at the binding. 95% of the paint misses the guitar typically. Its like everything....you need to try a few times on other bits of wood before you hit the guitar.

Exactly the way I would do it. Aim to miss completely, then ease your way back. Painting is an art, and using rattle cans isn't ideal but as Dave showed, it can be done. And sanding it back isn't a major step backwards. I've seen guys take 4 or 5 kicks at the can and they just get better with every attempt.

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

Upon further analysis, this result is highly(almost to the point of inferring causality)correlated with me being in a hurry and rushing the matter.
Thanks for picking me up guys. I appreciate it.

Since you guys are taking the time to help me out, I could at least give you some more pics to work with. It's like the red has actually crept in across the top even more since I first shot it. That damn red mist doesn't really show up in the pics, but its all over the place.

 

[greenhorn]

TBH, I dont really like the typical burst and I think yours is looking great. If it were mine, I'd keep it as is and make the edges darker. Assuming it looks the same in person as it does on MY computer monitor.

But of course THAT is entirely up to you. Best luck either way!

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

TBH, I dont really like the typical burst and I think yours is looking great. If it were mine, I'd keep it as is and make the edges darker. Assuming it looks the same in person as it does on MY computer monitor.

But of course THAT is entirely up to you. Best luck either way!

Thanks dude.

 

[J_Euphoria]

Awesome! It's looking great so far. I can't wait to see the finished product!

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

Awesome! It's looking great so far. I can't wait to see the finished product!

thanks bro