Working on a DIY LP Stnrd Kit

[CherryBurstChaser]

OK. As some of you know I've been working on refinishing my '97 LP Std which was black poly. I've got the neck, back and sides finished with stew-mac dyes and TruOil. As we speak I'm shooting the paint to the top. This has been a real learning experience and I've had to start over a couple of times.

While I'm shooting the paint and letting it dry, I've taken on another project. I ordered a DIY kit with the body already routed and drilled with a one-piece mahogany neck, no scarf joint, with a long tenon. It has a thick book-matched Canadian maple top (no veneer) on top of a nice 2 piece mahogany body. I just finished the grain fill and sanding on the back and sides. I'm gonna try to match the colors up as close as I can to a '59. I've got a variety of tint from StewMac and a few cans of gloss nitro. The biggest challenge will be setting the neck. Here's some pics.

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

A few more pics

 

[noNameUsername]

Nice! Where'd you get the kit from? Be sure to post pics of the process man! I'd love to see how you get on with it!

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

Nice! Where'd you get the kit from? Be sure to post pics of the process man! I'd love to see how you get on with it!

I found it on eBay. The dude claimed he could make it to my specs, low and behold he did. I'm not going to put "Gibson" or "Les Paul" on the headstock. Nor will I be using a truss-rod cover that says "Gibson". I'll keep you guys updated. Right now I'm waiting for some parts to arrive so I can begin assembly.

I don't know if I need to go over it again with grain fill. That's always my biggest issue...how do I know when I've sanded enough..or if Ive sanded too much.

 

[noNameUsername]

I found it on eBay. The dude claimed he could make it to my specs, low and behold he did. I'm not going to put "Gibson" or "Les Paul" on the headstock. Nor will I be using a truss-rod cover that says "Gibson". I'll keep you guys updated. Right now I'm waiting for some parts to arrive so I can begin assembly.

I don't know if I need to go over it again with grain fill. That's always my biggest issue...how do I know when I've sanded enough..or if Ive sanded too much.

Awesome man Nah that's cool man, you gonna put your own logo on? If so, how you gonna do it? haha I've got a few guitars I've built/customised and stuff that I've wanted to put my own kinda logo on or something but never know the best way to do it haha! And awesome What kinda hardware/pickups you got in mind?

And I don't know man, I think I read that if you don't use grain fill it makes the grain a lot more prominent or something, but I'm really not sure haha, I've never really done any finishing or anything

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

Here it is after the initial application of grain filler.

I've contacted MLP member Tulsah about making me a MOP inlay of my name (Scott) for the headstock. He says he can do it. I gotta get some more $$ together do I can pay him for it.

 

[noNameUsername]

That's a cool idea! I never thought of doing an inlay, I was thinking more like, a decal or something, but yeah I don't know why I never thought of doing an actual inlay haha! Body looks good man!

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

That's a cool idea! I never thought of doing an inlay, I was thinking more like, a decal or something, but yeah I don't know why I never thought of doing an actual inlay haha! Body looks good man!

Here's a couple more pics of the body and neck after more sanding down the grain filler.

 

[emoney]

What type grainfiller are you putting on it, out of curiousity? Looks really pinkish in the pics. As for, "how do I know when.." - it's something you can see if you look close, keeping in mind that grainfiller is designed to give you a nice, level surface (cuts down on the clear coats). A lot of people sand too much off when applying it for the 1st time, but regardless, at worst case you'll need an extra can or two of nitro to get it good and level. Are you using a sealer of some type? If so, it will be obvious if you need more filler after you apply a coat of sealant.

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

What type grainfiller are you putting on it, out of curiousity? Looks really pinkish in the pics. As for, "how do I know when.." - it's something you can see if you look close, keeping in mind that grainfiller is designed to give you a nice, level surface (cuts down on the clear coats). A lot of people sand too much off when applying it for the 1st time, but regardless, at worst case you'll need an extra can or two of nitro to get it good and level. Are you using a sealer of some type? If so, it will be obvious if you need more filler after you apply a coat of sealant.

Thanks guys. I appreciate you stopping by.
I'm using Stew-Mac grail filler, neutral/white color. The pick is b/c I mixed some Stew-Mac cherry red tint in with the filler. I also have tobacco brown, vintage amber, and black tint. I have 3 cans of Stew-Mac nitro. I have sealer, but didn't want to use it yet until I got some tips on grain fill. When I fill again, should I mix some tobacco brown in with the cherry red?

 

[emoney]

Yeah, you probably want to "brown" it up a bit. That will get the filler closer to "vintage mahogany" and you won't have to sand as deeply. There's lots of people that JUST tint their filler and then don't apply any color to the back. Is that the route you're going? If it's not, then you don't have to add color to the filler at all if you're going to be apply stain or something anyway.

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

Yeah, you probably want to "brown" it up a bit. That will get the filler closer to "vintage mahogany" and you won't have to sand as deeply. There's lots of people that JUST tint their filler and then don't apply any color to the back. Is that the route you're going? If it's not, then you don't have to add color to the filler at all if you're going to be apply stain or something anyway.

Thanks dude. I'll just apply the filler and stain over that then. I'll go easy with it b/c I may be sanding it down too much.

 

[ARandall]

I've seen that cerise colour before.....thats exactly the same colour I got when I used behlen waterbased grain fill. The good news is it becomes red with some clear over it - see pic

When you apply grain fill, the idea is to fill the holes grain to make it level. There's no need to sand afterwards. Sanding sealer, on the other hand, is designed to be put on thicker then you sand back to level once the stuff sinks into the grain.

What I'm saying is....you've confused the two. You add colour to the grain fill, apply it and wait about 30 second, scrape all the excess off the top with a spatula or wide rubber implement and thats it.

see this page for grain fill technique:
http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luthiers-corner/123788-mlp-bartlett-build-11.html

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

I've seen that cerise colour before.....thats exactly the same colour I got when I used behlen waterbased grain fill. The good news is it becomes red with some clear over it - see pic

When you apply grain fill, the idea is to fill the holes grain to make it level. There's no need to sand afterwards. Sanding sealer, on the other hand, is designed to be put on thicker then you sand back to level once the stuff sinks into the grain.

What I'm saying is....you've confused the two. You add colour to the grain fill, apply it and wait about 30 second, scrape all the excess off the top with a spatula or wide rubber implement and thats it.

see this page for grain fill technique:
http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luthiers-corner/123788-mlp-bartlett-build-11.html

Thanks for that link bro. I knew I'd seen it somewhere, just couldn't remember where. That helps a ton. I've already gone back over the body and I need to clean it up a little, but not nearly as much as my first go around. I'll post some pics of it as soon as I get it cleaned up.

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

OK. I just finished the second pass of grain filling. This time I mixed the tobacco brown and the cherry red into the filler. I made it pretty concentrated so I got some color.

However, I need some help. I need to tidy up the these surfaces and even out the color on the neck, sides and back. But I don't know how to do this without getting into the grain filler that's actually gone into the grain. I want that to stay put. Suggestions?

Thanks

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

more pics so you can get a better look at what's going on with this

My goal is that eventually, I'd like to achieve as close as I can to the old vintage red/mahogany.

Thanks in advance!

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

BUMP for update and pics. I finally got the color and grainfill the way I want on the sides, back and neck. I mixed up the brown with the filler and got the color I wanted. This took a few applications (ffs mahogany is porous), each time sanding the color back, but leaving the dark brown filler in the grain. Then I went over it with the cherry and it came out to my liking.

 

[CherryBurstChaser]

OK, so my plan for the maple top was to put a coat of tobacco brown tint on, sand it back, then go over it with vintage amber, and be done. I know this maple isn't flame or figured, so I'm wasn't trying to pop the grain, but I thought it might look nice if there were some brown in the grain underneath the amber. Problem is..the tobacco brown will not come off. I've sanded it with 220 and tried to reduce the color by wiping the top down with some alcohol and then naptha. So far this is the most I've been able to remove.

How can I get this stuff off? Sand with heavier grit?
Thanks

 

[HOT-BRIT]

Looking good

 

[scstrummer]

OK, so my plan for the maple top was to put a coat of tobacco brown tint on, sand it back, then go over it with vintage amber, and be done. I know this maple isn't flame or figured, so I'm wasn't trying to pop the grain, but I thought it might look nice if there were some brown in the grain underneath the amber. Problem is..the tobacco brown will not come off. I've sanded it with 220 and tried to reduce the color by wiping the top down with some alcohol and then naptha. So far this is the most I've been able to remove.

How can I get this stuff off? Sand with heavier grit?
Thanks

You may indeed have to go with a heavier grit; maybe 150. My experience (and I'm no expert) says maple absorbs stain unevenly. I think this is why you read/see a lot of people seal before finish and then spray on tinted lacquer for their burst and then clear coat.

Once you get the brown removed to your liking, sand to 220, then wipe your top with a damp rag to raise then grain. Then sand back to 220, then 320 and maybe even 400. If you are applying by hand, you may try thinner, multiple coats and work up to your desired color.

Hope maybe this helps and good luck!