If I match gibson's north and south starts and finishes with dimarzio's I should be in phase with the burstbucker that I intend to leave (temporarily at least) in the neck position. Right? ( or of course, out of phase when neck tone is pulled up)
Yes.
You need to match the starts and finishes to what Gibson uses in the connector.
great thanks! mine won't be here til tuesday. cant wait to try it out!
thanks a lot. I had it backwards. will try again tomorrow. I am pretty good with solder.
If you look at it through a magnifying glass you'll need the taller side is the crimping side. If you're soldering them, you need to tin the leads then heat up the terminal and melt the solder and connect the two. The easiest way to do this is to put the soldering iron in a vice and use tweezers to hold the terminal and your other hand to hold the lead. It's tricky but easier then trying to hold the soldering iron. Once you're sure it's a good solder, take some needle nose pliers or your tweezers and squeeze the long terminal posts into each other. They are spread out in a V and won't fit into the plastic connector which has a square opening. Also make sure you don't have any cold solder joints. The solder should be shiny not dull. If it's dull, reheat it and let it cool again.
The solderless option would be to get some D-Sub Pin Crimpers and just crimp them. It will still be tricky since the terminals are so damn small.
how much of the wire did you use. just enough to get into the crimping end or longer?
If you look at it through a magnifying glass you'll need the taller side is the crimping side. If you're soldering them, you need to tin the leads then heat up the terminal and melt the solder and connect the two. The easiest way to do this is to put the soldering iron in a vice and use tweezers to hold the terminal and your other hand to hold the lead. It's tricky but easier then trying to hold the soldering iron. Once you're sure it's a good solder, take some needle nose pliers or your tweezers and squeeze the long terminal posts into each other. They are spread out in a V and won't fit into the plastic connector which has a square opening. Also make sure you don't have any cold solder joints. The solder should be shiny not dull. If it's dull, reheat it and let it cool again.
The solderless option would be to get some D-Sub Pin Crimpers and just crimp them. It will still be tricky since the terminals are so damn small.
Use enough wire to go to the middle but not between the front posts. Otherwise, you won't get enough contact area. You need more contact to make sure the wire doesn't get pulled out if tugged.
Ok thanks a lot!
Did you visually confirm that the terminals are seated all the way into the connectors?
well I thought so
OK thanks!! any suggestions for pushing it down in there? needle?
Use whatever will fit.
I did mention several times that it wasn't going to be easy. I'd say even as a electronic tech, it's a little rough the first time. Yes you did Jeffy. And I am sorry if I came off like I was blaming you ro bitching at you. your help was invaluable. now that I have done one maybe I will try again. Thanks again bro really.
If you mentioned that you were thinking of hand-wiring it, then I wouldn't have even recommended doing the connectors. Doing a standard hand-wiring job is easy in comparison. It could still retain all of the 2012 features but have it hand-wired if you wanted to, I bet.
I'm going to be adding a PIO cap to mine next. May or may not switch it over to 50's.
