why 5 PU wires on molex connector 2012 std

HIghAndDry

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2011
Messages
175
Reaction score
16
Found this at Seymour Duncan in their Wiring Diagram FAQ. Color codes for a bunch of MFG's. Confirms bare is ground on all models.

Wiring Diagram
If I match gibson's north and south starts and finishes with dimarzio's I should be in phase with the burstbucker that I intend to leave (temporarily at least) in the neck position. Right? ( or of course, out of phase when neck tone is pulled up)
 

jeffy

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2010
Messages
1,606
Reaction score
852
Ok. really small? I ordered enough extra hopefully!
Yes.

In magnitude of smallness, it goes Mini, Micro, Nano then Pico. These are called Pico-Blade and the terminal could fit inside a Micro Terminal.

If I match gibson's north and south starts and finishes with dimarzio's I should be in phase with the burstbucker that I intend to leave (temporarily at least) in the neck position. Right? ( or of course, out of phase when neck tone is pulled up)
You need to match the starts and finishes to what Gibson uses in the connector.

Looks like it should be:

Pin# - Gibson ---> Dimarzio
  1. RD - North Start - RD
  2. BK - South Start - GN
  3. WT - North Finish - BK
  4. GN - South Finish - GY
  5. Braided Ground
 

HIghAndDry

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2011
Messages
175
Reaction score
16
Yes.

In magnitude of smallness, it goes Mini, Micro, Nano then Pico. These are called Pico-Blade and the terminal could fit inside a Micro Terminal.

You need to match the starts and finishes to what Gibson uses in the connector.

Looks like it should be:


Pin# - Gibson ---> Dimarzio
  1. RD - North Start - RD
  2. BK - South Start - GN
  3. WT - North Finish - BK
  4. GN - South Finish - GY
  5. Braided Ground
great thanks! mine won't be here til tuesday. cant wait to try it out!
 

HIghAndDry

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2011
Messages
175
Reaction score
16
Ok. my connectors got here today. and my first attempt was a dismal failure. how the hell do you put those terminals in? one end is slightly taller. does that go in last?
 

jeffy

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2010
Messages
1,606
Reaction score
852
Ok. my connectors got here today. and my first attempt was a dismal failure. how the hell do you put those terminals in? one end is slightly taller. does that go in last?
:doh:

If you look at it through a magnifying glass you'll need the taller side is the crimping side. If you're soldering them, you need to tin the leads then heat up the terminal and melt the solder and connect the two. The easiest way to do this is to put the soldering iron in a vice and use tweezers to hold the terminal and your other hand to hold the lead. It's tricky but easier then trying to hold the soldering iron. Once you're sure it's a good solder, take some needle nose pliers or your tweezers and squeeze the long terminal posts into each other. They are spread out in a V and won't fit into the plastic connector which has a square opening. Also make sure you don't have any cold solder joints. The solder should be shiny not dull. If it's dull, reheat it and let it cool again.

The solderless option would be to get some D-Sub Pin Crimpers and just crimp them. It will still be tricky since the terminals are so damn small.
 

HIghAndDry

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2011
Messages
175
Reaction score
16
:doh:

If you look at it through a magnifying glass you'll need the taller side is the crimping side. If you're soldering them, you need to tin the leads then heat up the terminal and melt the solder and connect the two. The easiest way to do this is to put the soldering iron in a vice and use tweezers to hold the terminal and your other hand to hold the lead. It's tricky but easier then trying to hold the soldering iron. Once you're sure it's a good solder, take some needle nose pliers or your tweezers and squeeze the long terminal posts into each other. They are spread out in a V and won't fit into the plastic connector which has a square opening. Also make sure you don't have any cold solder joints. The solder should be shiny not dull. If it's dull, reheat it and let it cool again.

The solderless option would be to get some D-Sub Pin Crimpers and just crimp them. It will still be tricky since the terminals are so damn small.
thanks a lot. I had it backwards. will try again tomorrow. I am pretty good with solder.
 

HIghAndDry

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2011
Messages
175
Reaction score
16
:doh:

If you look at it through a magnifying glass you'll need the taller side is the crimping side. If you're soldering them, you need to tin the leads then heat up the terminal and melt the solder and connect the two. The easiest way to do this is to put the soldering iron in a vice and use tweezers to hold the terminal and your other hand to hold the lead. It's tricky but easier then trying to hold the soldering iron. Once you're sure it's a good solder, take some needle nose pliers or your tweezers and squeeze the long terminal posts into each other. They are spread out in a V and won't fit into the plastic connector which has a square opening. Also make sure you don't have any cold solder joints. The solder should be shiny not dull. If it's dull, reheat it and let it cool again.

The solderless option would be to get some D-Sub Pin Crimpers and just crimp them. It will still be tricky since the terminals are so damn small.
how much of the wire did you use. just enough to get into the crimping end or longer?
 

jeffy

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2010
Messages
1,606
Reaction score
852
thanks a lot. I had it backwards. will try again tomorrow. I am pretty good with solder.

how much of the wire did you use. just enough to get into the crimping end or longer?
Use enough wire to go to the middle but not between the front posts. Otherwise, you won't get enough contact area. You need more contact to make sure the wire doesn't get pulled out if tugged.
 

HIghAndDry

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2011
Messages
175
Reaction score
16
Use enough wire to go to the middle but not between the front posts. Otherwise, you won't get enough contact area. You need more contact to make sure the wire doesn't get pulled out if tugged.
Ok thanks a lot!
 

HIghAndDry

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2011
Messages
175
Reaction score
16
well I had a bit more success today. I got the pins on and into the connector. I pulled the plate of the guitar and unplugged the br pickup and plugged in the tone zone. (the tone zone was not mounted on the guitar) I did get a reading on the volt ohm meter. It seemed about what it should be 16.5 dc ohms or so. when I pulled up the pot the reading stayed the same. I also noticed that the connector is slightly different. And when I pulled the tone zone out I noticed that the pins were slightly pushed out. Am I not getting the pins into the conector properly?
 

jeffy

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2010
Messages
1,606
Reaction score
852
well I had a bit more success today. I got the pins on and into the connector. I pulled the plate of the guitar and unplugged the br pickup and plugged in the tone zone. (the tone zone was not mounted on the guitar) I did get a reading on the volt ohm meter. It seemed about what it should be 16.5 dc ohms or so. when I pulled up the pot the reading stayed the same. I also noticed that the connector is slightly different. And when I pulled the tone zone out I noticed that the pins were slightly pushed out. Am I not getting the pins into the conector properly?
Did you visually confirm that the terminals are seated all the way into the connectors?
 

jeffy

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2010
Messages
1,606
Reaction score
852
well I thought so

Get out your magnifying glass and look at it. On the bottom of the terminals is a bump. This does two things. Sets the depth of the terminal and locks it into the connector.
 

HIghAndDry

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2011
Messages
175
Reaction score
16
Get out your magnifying glass and look at it. On the bottom of the terminals is a bump. This does two things. Sets the depth of the terminal and locks it into the connector.
OK thanks!! any suggestions for pushing it down in there? needle?
 

HIghAndDry

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2011
Messages
175
Reaction score
16
Well ok I got it to work but I am gonna go to plan B. I am going to pull that whole circuit board out of there , pots and all, and rewire it with push pull pots. That is just too big of a pain in the ass for me. I could have replaced that pickup a couple times at least, in the time I spent screwing with that. I know it sounds radical but If I have to do that everytime I want to change a pickup screw it. maybe proper tools would help but jeez.......
 

jeffy

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2010
Messages
1,606
Reaction score
852
Well ok I got it to work but I am gonna go to plan B. I am going to pull that whole circuit board out of there , pots and all, and rewire it with push pull pots. That is just too big of a pain in the ass for me. I could have replaced that pickup a couple times at least, in the time I spent screwing with that. I know it sounds radical but If I have to do that everytime I want to change a pickup screw it. maybe proper tools would help but jeez.......
:hmm: I did mention several times that it wasn't going to be easy. I'd say even as a electronic tech, it's a little rough the first time.

If you mentioned that you were thinking of hand-wiring it, then I wouldn't have even recommended doing the connectors. Doing a standard hand-wiring job is easy in comparison. It could still retain all of the 2012 features but have it hand-wired if you wanted to, I bet.

I'm going to be adding a PIO cap to mine next. May or may not switch it over to 50's.
 

HIghAndDry

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2011
Messages
175
Reaction score
16
:hmm: I did mention several times that it wasn't going to be easy. I'd say even as a electronic tech, it's a little rough the first time.

If you mentioned that you were thinking of hand-wiring it, then I wouldn't have even recommended doing the connectors. Doing a standard hand-wiring job is easy in comparison. It could still retain all of the 2012 features but have it hand-wired if you wanted to, I bet.

I'm going to be adding a PIO cap to mine next. May or may not switch it over to 50's.
Yes you did Jeffy. And I am sorry if I came off like I was blaming you ro bitching at you. your help was invaluable. now that I have done one maybe I will try again. Thanks again bro really.
Now like I said I haven't really mounted it yet. my volt ohm meter reads the same with push pull pot up or down. however, i noticed that it does with the burstbucker as well. Is there an electronic reason for that. I would think that if it is spliiting a coil it shoud read roughly half. maybe I have the tone pot pulled up?
 

Latest Threads



Top