What's on YOUR workbench right now?

fatdaddypreacher

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well, these were on my workbench. glued up some maple caps. trying to take advantage of some good weather.
 

Skyjerk

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#2 is in the first glue up stage. Little more motivation for you -
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Mainly wanted to try out my new Grizzly 18" drum sander. Loving this thing

:)

nice!

i had to sell my drum sander to make some floor space. im researching alternate methods of accomplishing the same thing.

planing across end grain can be tricky and/or risky with power tools :)
thinkin a top routing jig could work as long as the workpiece is well secured, the router has the right bit, and im taking very shallow passes…
 

Moodivarius

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More work on the neck today.

Made a face-on template for the tenon.

Worked on cutting out the neck & gluing on the headstock wings.

Used some tools I was comfortable with.
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Set the angle to 4deg.
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Setup the mitre saw cut-depth stop so it was where I drew the line for the tenon.
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Proceeded to cut material away to leave the 1 1/2” tenon. I went just a touch large to be able to chisel or sand it exact later.
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Then I went to the bandsaw & cut out the side profile. Again, slightly larger than the pencil line.
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Then I took leftover mahogany, I had cut off from the heel end, moved it up to the headstock to match the grain. Glued those pieces on to create headstock wings.
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As you can see, I glued the wings on, full size of blank, so when I saw & plane them down to size, they will have the grain matching at the 10deg angle. Just incase I leave the back of the headstock plain wood. The front will get birdseye maple veneer to match body.
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Trim the wings, draw the headstock & cut the face profile on the bandsaw next.



Scott
 

Moodivarius

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Headstock planed down to thickness.
Design work done in Aspire.

Back side. Volute will get refining when carving neck.
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Tried to design a bit of PRS, & Gibson. It’s like if they had offspring together. :D
Wanted to bring the holes inward to line up better with the strings coming through the nut.
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Used my Tremonti SE for comparison.
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Laid the tuners on to get a better idea. Makes it look better.
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Coming along.
I know some won’t like the non standard, but I’m happy with the look.


Scott
 

bgrizz

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Nearing completion of a Frankenstrat Project. I've always wanted a guitar like this and it feels good to finally be at a stage where I can at least string it up and play it. I am really looking forward to getting the relic'ed "beat up" look on maple board through playing, this is my first maple fretboard guitar. It started out as a budget Ibanez from early 90's that turned out to be a plywood/laminated body. Still needs a ton of work to play like I want it to, this is my first guitar with a floyd, but so far I really like it.

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dcomiskey

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Happiness is.....MASSIVE, ONE-PIECE BODY BLANKS!!!!!!! Seriously, I have no idea where I'm even going to put these, but I scored 4 beautiful and very wide old-growth Spanish Cedar blanks from a forum member (I will leave it to him to reveal himself, if he so wishes) that will, sooner or later, become new V's, Explorers or, taa daaaa, Ibby-style Destroyers. As you can see, I just got my Destroyer body template today, as well. My only real dilemma with these blanks is that they're nearly 2 1/4" thick. No way am I planing or sanding them all the way down to size. I hate wasting wood, as this wood is so old and valuable that I think it would be karmic injustice to turn that much of these blanks into sawdust. My bandsaw only accommodates up to 14", so I'm 6" short to simply slice them. But, that's a problem for a little bit down the road. I'm sure I can find a mill who could slice them up for me.

I also got some parts for my RG350M restoration.

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Moodivarius

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I tried the tool-patches on styrofoam, and all was good.

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After supper last night, I decided to bite the bullet & route the mahogany.

I started on the back, doing the belly cut, & the control cavity cover routes.

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Belly Cut
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Processed to flip over and rout the pickups first.
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Then the control cavity, switch cavity & wire channel.
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As you may notice around the control cavity, the colette of the router dug in slightly.
My 1/4” end mill was only chucked in the router by 3/8”, and thought it would be enough sticking out to cut through. Once I noticed it touching, I stoped the CNC, adjusted the bit out a wee bit more & continued on.
It’s under the maple cap, so it doesn’t really matter.


I was going to route the outer profile & be finished, but thought, why not do some weight relief! ;)

Aspire design
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The large relief holes are 1.5” dia, & 1.25” deep. I kept them from the left side, so I didn’t go through into the belly cut on the back. Smaller holes are just over 0.75”.
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Trimmed off the leftover blank, & sanded the edges on body & other routes to get rid of the fuzzies.:p
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Turned out pretty good. Just the neck sitting on the body. Neck pocket route after maple top is on.
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Now onto the maple cap.


Scott
 

mux164

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this is my first build in a few months, not sure many of you know but I had to have time off from everything, I found out I had bowel cancer, I had a bowel resection and then the setbacks started to occur

First I had cdiff which is highly infectious diarrhoea, then I had a hole in my freshly resectioned bowel, that led to septicaemia, and to finish my 31 day stay in hospital off I caught Covid the week before I got released

Went home with the surgical drain still in, went back to emergency to have the drain removed, only to find out I had an abscess on my liver which was about the thickness of a strat

Anyway I’m on the mend now

I’m making a bass6 and I’m really liking it

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bhmcintosh

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And Now for Something Completely Different™ - I recently traded my GP-10 and a few dead presidents for a shiny new blue SY-1000.
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WONDERFUL gizmo, except it doesn't have a "normal guitar passthru out" like the GP-10 did, and I need that to properly integrate it into my setup. So I did some shopping around and found a spiffy little buffer and output jack combo, and proceeded to shoehorn it into the unit. Found space for it inside one of the plastic end caps.
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It worked, but oh LORD the HUM! :( It finally dawned on me that the little buffer was designed to be installed in a guitar and powered by a 9V battery, and so didn't have any filtering. Back online I went, and found a little LC filter module that looked like it should fit in a cranny somewhere.
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And so it did.
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And that did it! Hum pretty much eliminated. And now I can tap off the normal guitar signal and send it to my other effects in parallel with the SY. Happiness IS. :D
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Joe Desperado

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this is my first build in a few months, not sure many of you know but I had to have time off from everything, I found out I had bowel cancer, I had a bowel resection and then the setbacks started to occur

First I had cdiff which is highly infectious diarrhoea, then I had a hole in my freshly resectioned bowel, that led to septicaemia, and to finish my 31 day stay in hospital off I caught Covid the week before I got released

Went home with the surgical drain still in, went back to emergency to have the drain removed, only to find out I had an abscess on my liver which was about the thickness of a strat

Anyway I’m on the mend now

I’m making a bass6 and I’m really liking it

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Nice bass.

We are all pulling for you and a much speedier recovery
 

fatdaddypreacher

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I’m getting there, everything has been delays and it’s going to take a while to feel somewhat normal
oh, dude. so sorry to hear your medical issues. so glad you seem to be on the way back. rooting and praying for you...and your bass looks great. building is your best therapy. glad you feel up to it
 

Moodivarius

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Last night I routed the maple cap carve.

The blank
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Rough contours
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Finish carve
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Just over 3 1/2 hours.
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Next will be the profile route, pickups, pot holes, & switch hole.

It’ll need sanding as well.



Scott
 

Joe Desperado

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Moodivarius

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Got all of the routing done on the maple cap this aft.
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I removed the leftovers, & sanded the ball-nose routing smooth by hand, with 80gt, then 100gt.
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Some interesting grain mixed with the birdseye.
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The maple cap & binding, is slightly smaller than the mahogany body, so once I glue the cap on, & binding, I can sand flush to the edge of the binding wit the oscillating sander.
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My binding route, I decided to just set in the tool-path all the way around the cap. Then, I’ll just blend the cap down to the upper edge of the binding, or maybe order slightly taller binding to gain the extra 1/16” height in the cut-away area.
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The body pickup routes & cap routes, Lined up perfect.
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I zeroed the scale on the top of the mahogany body, then held the cap down & put the scale back on. Ended up with this.
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Looks correct.

I wiped on some isopropyl alcohol to enhance the grain.
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I guess now I can glue the maple cap to the body, & then the binding. After that, the neck pocket.




Scott
 

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