It depends. At the top end (around $200), Gary Brawer just finished setting up a brand new Agile LP for me. The frets were superglued, leveled (on the PLEK) and crowned/polished and the Floyd nut and bridge were adjusted for correct height and for the correct radius (16" on that guitar) for very low action with 9's, and the guitar was intonated.
I don't bother with a "pro" setup unless I know that the nut or frets need work or that there's something else amiss with the guitar. I usually set up my own guitars, and I've done that for decades. But I'll often have new guitars gone through by a good tech, if for no other reason than to spot potential problems early on and to have a really good baseline setup to start with.
An 18" straightedge and a 4" straightedge are useful for finding low/high frets. Often a leather or rubber mallet will put high frets back in place and that's all that's needed. If you can afford a fret press (StewMac has them for individual frets), that's probably a better tool. I usually need to start with level frets with all the strings off the guitar (yup!) and the truss rod in a neutral position (if it's a double action). Once all the frets are known level, you can inspect them for wear and then polish them up a bit. I'll occasionally give them a once-over with a crowning file, but if there's real fret work to be done, I'll hand that off to the tech. That's usually above and beyond "setup," as is cutting the nut.
It's a good idea to have a set of understring radius gauges -- your bridge and nut should follow the radius of the fretboard. When you're setting up the bridge to set the action height, these come in pretty handy for doing the initial saddle heights. If you like your bass strings a bit farther off the frets than the treble, then you can simply raise the bass side of the entire bridge.
It's a good idea to inspect bridge saddles for burrs when the strings are off as well.
An accurate action gauge helps, here, to set your action consistently. I've also got a set of feeler gauges that allow me to set the relief (truss rod adjustment) where I like it.
I'd consider all of the above (including a re-string) part of a pro setup. Some pros leave the frets as is (no polishing) and almost all will consider anything beyond a mild fret re-seating an extra charge.
Honestly, I'd suggest that you get a copy of "How to make your electric guitar play great" by Dan Erlewine ($14 at Amazon). Best investment you can make in your guitar. Second best investment would be a set of basic tools. These, from StewMac, run about $86 (and you'll need a few other things as well):
I think these are pricey, but will be paid for if you can do most of your own routine setups rather than hauling the guitar to a tech who may or may not do a good job.