Ultimate Burst Replica Build?

[StHadley]

Another future plan is an SG. I've always wanted to do one of those since I broke mine many years ago and threw it away. Bad decision. I'f i'd known then what i know now, it would have been a really easy fix.

A buddy of mine and I made an SG from a kit a little while back. I'm not a massive fan of the SG, but he built this cos he wanted a fifth one.
We used hide glue for the neck join, but someone (read: not me) messed up and used way too much, so we had to reset the neck after the paint had dried.

And its always good in hindsight! I threw out an old 70s 30watt tube amp when I was 14 cos it stopped working. I had less than no clue about tubes, and I'm fairly sure that it had just blown a tube or something. I'm an idiot.

 

[closed_PaulSlack]

Some new arrivals.

Lightweight Aluminium stop bar tailpiece just turned up.

Also, my fretwire arrived from Stewmac. As informed earlier in this thread, it is the 0141 selection.

New Truss Rod Cover ready for ageing

and last but not least, a big thanks to fellow member rusdfh for this:

 

[pinefd]

Paul, you do realize, don't you, that that stop tailpece is really a wraparound tailpiece, for use when you're not using an ABR-1 bridge (in other words, not correct for a 'burst)?


Frank

 

[closed_PaulSlack]

Paul, you do realize, don't you, that that stop tailpece is really a wraparound tailpiece, for use when you're not using an ABR-1 bridge (in other words, not correct for a 'burst)?


Frank

Edit: Scratch that. They are both the same I think.
Can you post a link to a stop bar that fits the bill?

I have the option to return anything not correct, so it's not a major issue except for the fact it slows me down a little waiting for parts to arrive to the UK.
It's not costing me anything other than return postage, and I'm learning all the time as well.

Without doing a proper inventory right now, I think the tailpiece is one of the last components required now. So I might as well get this bit right.
Some of the sites I've looked through for parts are a bit vague when it comes to specifying the period and models suitable.

Hopefully, any future questions from me will be about the finer details of the build itself.

Thank you again for your attention Frank.

 

['59_Standard]

The Hysteric Parts

 

[closed_PaulSlack]

The Hysteric Parts

Thanks mate. All sorted.

Going to get on with the wood now.

 

[alk-3]

Paul, I think you really need to slow down here and take a deep breath. Why not build the guitar and while you're building you can do the research necessary to buy the correct parts just once, the first time without having to buy each item twice.

The truss rod cover doesn't look right, but you can get a great one from Wizz pickups.
The side dots are supposed to be made from Celluloid, not acrylic, and as mentioned, that tailpiece is not for your style of guitar, and even if it was, it doesn't have the correct tooling on the underside, of that matters to you.

I really hate to see you buying all this stuff with the best intentions, but you're really running through a lot of stuff that I dont think is really what you want. The information is plentiful on this forum alone.

 

[closed_PaulSlack]

Paul, I think you really need to slow down here and take a deep breath. Why not build the guitar and while you're building you can do the research necessary to buy the correct parts just once, the first time without having to buy each item twice.

The truss rod cover doesn't look right, but you can get a great one from Wizz pickups.
The side dots are supposed to be made from Celluloid, not acrylic, and as mentioned, that tailpiece is not for your style of guitar, and even if it was, it doesn't have the correct tooling on the underside, of that matters to you.

I really hate to see you buying all this stuff with the best intentions, but you're really running through a lot of stuff that I dont think is really what you want. The information is plentiful on this forum alone.

Thanks mate. I know what you mean, but I am actually making progress with the build. This parts collecting is really not a problem. Please don't worry about it. Nothing will go unused.

The truss rod cover is a Gibson Historic part. Maybe there are people who say they make a closer/better/whatever version, but as it is from the Gibson plant, I'm sure it will be fine. I intend to age it myself too, so the finished effect should be nice.

As for the side dots. They are translucent, red/black tortoise coloured replicas at the exact same size. Celluloid or acrylic, no-one is ever going to know unless they are prised out and tested by a chemist are they? So I'm not going to worry too much about that when there are things like my body blank not starting out being over 50 years old.

As for the stopbar, I have something that would be suitable for that piece or it would be just as easy to return it.

Crazyparts is already packing me the correct one!

 

[closed_PaulSlack]

Just as a side note guys.

I want you all to know that your observations, guidance and help with correcting these parts is really appreciated and it will not effect my enthusiasm for this build. I suppose I asked for it with the title of the thread, so although I can't get a time machine and go back to get the right woods, parts etc, It's entirely reasonable to see why people would want to point out errors.

I'll soldier on and do the best job I possibly can.

The bits I don't sell on or return will definitely be used soon. I have a list of jobs they will come in more than handy for. As I don't build any other kind of guitar, they won't be around long.

 

[alk-3]

Fair enough Paul. No matter what hardware you use, you're going to have a blast building the guitar. You'll learn plenty, and certainly tech us a thing or two as well.

 

['59_Standard]

I agree slow down - don't buy in haste. I've taken forever accumilating my replica parts and I've still pieces to go... *sigh* lol



IF the side dots are Acrylic you can make your own Terry's post on home made dots. In fact, I'd suggest reading any of single cut54's old posts as he gave away a ton of info - and has spent years repairing the damn things.


Oversized 'loid dots are available on NP's site

 

[closed_PaulSlack]

Better...

Courtesy of 59Parts.

 

[closed_PaulSlack]

Out of interest, just been digging around in old boxes in my man cave and turned up a few more thumbwheels. There are pictures of one of them below. The rest are indentical.

For starters, here is a picture of the correct thumbwheel from a vintage in the official parts thread. Notice that each point on the wheel knurling has what appears to be a double crown as opposed to regular up down knurling.

Here are pics of the wheel from 59 parts, which seem to be identical, and very similar to the others I found in my parts bin. I also notice that the 59Parts one is very slightly smaller but the knurling is more pronounced. Both have the circular lathe marks on the outer surfaces and both are the same thickness. However, the 59Parts wheel also has much more pronounced lathe marks.

Which do you feel is more accurate?

 

[nuance97]

IF the side dots are Acrylic you can make your own Terry's post on home made dots. In fact, I'd suggest reading any of single cut54's old posts as he gave away a ton of info - and has spent years repairing the damn things.

Making your own side dots is super easy with a leather punch, and a celluloid tortoise pick.

Had to make some side dots. I used a leather punch and a celluloid fender thumb pick that I flattened out.

The finished product.

That's it for today.

 

[closed_PaulSlack]

Here's the switch I had on order before I stripped the guitar shown previoulsy in this thread.

 

[closed_PaulSlack]

Making your own side dots is super easy with a leather punch, and a celluloid tortoise pick.

Cheers mate. I could have made my own using my leather punch and there is a company called Rothcoe and Frost who sell celluloid binding the perfect colour and more suitable thickness.

Right now, I'm working on some templates to cover various parts of the top to simulate where parts of the original colour wouldn't have faded as much under years of natural light.

 

[ARandall]

Aren't they called pickup rings, a scratchplate, knobs/pointer washers and the toggle switch ring....things you have already bought.

Surely you don't need to make templates, unless you like doublehandling and more work than is needed.

 

['59_Standard]

Right now, I'm working on some templates to cover various parts of the top to simulate where parts of the original colour wouldn't have faded as much under years of natural light.

HM

 

[closed_PaulSlack]

Aren't they called pickup rings, a scratchplate, knobs/pointer washers and the toggle switch ring....things you have already bought.

Surely you don't need to make templates, unless you like doublehandling and more work than is needed.

No. They are called templates like I said.

Using the hardware I already have, I am going to make templates of the pieces cut away. So basically, if I have a large piece of material with the shape of a pickguard cut out of it for example, I can create a faded burst on the top and then add back with darker tints, the areas which would have been "covered" by the hardware and not faded. The templates will be used for masking to hopefully create a nice, authentic looking faded edge 'suntan' type effect.

I have seen the historic makeover site's boast of not spraying fades and putting back the true colour areas. But I guess they have customers who will wait til the dyes have faded. If they are spraying the clear coats after the fading process, it's still not historically accurate anyway.

So I'll go with the method I feel most comfortable with.

 

[ARandall]

Wow, ok, you like going the hard way about things. Those bursts faded in the sun, why not just do it that way. The lacquer ambered due to UV over time, why not just amber up clear in the sun and apply it after the fade (about a week or two of sun for the fade at most). I'm no fortune teller, but I can foresee a LOT of sanding off of tan lines because they're too sharp, or they've bled etc.

But each to his own