Truss Rod...what should the thread look like under the TRC?

Shades of Blue

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Can someone post a pic of what it should look like under the TRC? I've had a couple people inquire about a Les Paul I'm selling, and they want pics of the truss rod. What is this about, and what are they looking for?
 

bum

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They are looking for the Gibson nut style truss rod
truss-rod-adjustment-nut.jpg


A lot of knock offs do not have this and it's a good first place to check

Here's your average chibson for comparison

fake7.jpg
 

Shades of Blue

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^this.

I imagine they are just making sure:

A. That it’s not a Chibson
B. That it has not been tightened too far and there is enough thread left for adjustment.
Option B is the culprit. If I look at the first pic in this thread, I would think that it looked bad, but apparently that is good?
 

jkes01

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I don’t know, that first pic looks like they unscrewed it a bit too far as the washer fell out of it’s place.

You don’t want to see that. You also don’t want to see an inch or more of thread sticking out.
 

mudface

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All the above and depending on what model or year or era said guitar is... to check for maple or a hog neck.... sometimes solid colors or dark finishes cover what the neck is.... but as previously mentioned... primarily for truss rod issues and or authentication.
 

Wise Guy

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I bought a brand new 2006 Gibson Explorer from GC and after a year of owning it, I went in for an adjustment and found 3 threads sticking through the nut. I was able to adjust it but there's not much room left before it's maxed out. Not sure how many exposed threads is maxed out but the most I've seen was 5.
 

mudface

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I bought a brand new 2006 Gibson Explorer from GC and after a year of owning it, I went in for an adjustment and found 3 threads sticking through the nut. I was able to adjust it but there's not much room left before it's maxed out. Not sure how many exposed threads is maxed out but the most I've seen was 5.
Hopefully one should never have to make a full turn of the truss rod nut for adjustments....hopefully.
 

endial

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If yours is unmolested than that should pretty much be what it should look like. What's wrong with posting the pic for potential buyers?
 

ARandall

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I bought a brand new 2006 Gibson Explorer from GC and after a year of owning it, I went in for an adjustment and found 3 threads sticking through the nut. I was able to adjust it but there's not much room left before it's maxed out. Not sure how many exposed threads is maxed out but the most I've seen was 5.
The threaded section on the typical rod is about 2". 5 threads beyond is using about 20% of the possible length.
The only 'maxed out' scenario there could be is that you cannot get the tool down far enough to get purchase on the flats.
 

Wise Guy

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The threaded section on the typical rod is about 2". 5 threads beyond is using about 20% of the possible length.
The only 'maxed out' scenario there could be is that you cannot get the tool down far enough to get purchase on the flats.
Good to know thanks. Theres still a little room to get the tool on but luckily over the past 14 years the neck hasn't moved much.
 

Shades of Blue

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If yours is unmolested than that should pretty much be what it should look like. What's wrong with posting the pic for potential buyers?
Nothing wrong, and I’ve given them what they want. I just send pics and never hear back, so I wasn’t sure what they were wanting to see. Based on replies, mine seems perfectly normal.
 

Wise Guy

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Ever since my Explorer issue I request the same information. So when I see this, I generally pass depending on a few things. But since this Explorer has been my 'go to' guitar for 14 years now, I plan on removing the fingerboard and installing a new rod if it gets to that point.
 

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jk60LPTH

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Ever since my Explorer issue I request the same information. So when I see this, I generally pass depending on a few things. But since this Explorer has been my 'go to' guitar for 14 years now, I plan on removing the fingerboard and installing a new rod if it gets to that point.
In the case of your Explorer, could you save yourself the trouble of removing the fingerboard by putting a couple of washers under the nut to gain a couple of threads of adjustment range?
 

Wise Guy

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In the case of your Explorer, could you save yourself the trouble of removing the fingerboard by putting a couple of washers under the nut to gain a couple of threads of adjustment range?
I've thought about doing that too if and when the time comes but I've heard some horror stories about the rod or the wood breaking doing that. I will definitely exhaust all options first. So far though, I've never had to adjust it after that first time(knock on wood)..
 

jk60LPTH

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I've thought about doing that too if and when the time comes but I've heard some horror stories about the rod or the wood breaking doing that. I will definitely exhaust all options first. So far though, I've never had to adjust it after that first time(knock on wood)..
I guess I could see the wood breaking at the headstock end if the washers were too large and got caught on the wood instead of being seated only on the rectangular truss rod 'washer'. If the wood broke at the other end of the truss rod, it could be that there was already a problem there that made the truss rod longer at the headstock end, like it was already pulling through the wood at the body end for some reason. Another option to washers would be a section of circuit board standoff the had an outside diameter close to equal of the nut diameter, and drill out the center to accommodate the truss rod and cut it to the appropriate length. Before any of this, I would consult an experienced guitar tech or two and get their take on what is happening with that truss rod- I'm sure you've already thought of that though.
 

rfrizz

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Ever since my Explorer issue I request the same information. So when I see this, I generally pass depending on a few things. But since this Explorer has been my 'go to' guitar for 14 years now, I plan on removing the fingerboard and installing a new rod if it gets to that point.
I don't know exactly how much it costs to replace a truss rod, but I understand it is usually over $500. I am inclined to think a 2006 Gibson Explorer is worth the repair. You clearly love the feel of it, so I wouldn't replace the whole neck. I hope the frets are in good shape!
 

kakerlak

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I wouldn't put any stock in a visual examination of the truss rod nut/threads, unless there's some sort of insane amount of threads sticking out or the end is obviously broken off and gone. In person, and honestly, in years of wheeling and dealing back pre-ebay, in person, I never pulled a TRC. If the neck's relief was sitting reasonable, I just assumed the rod was okay and adjustable and never once got burned, YMMV. If you have one in hand and want to check, a quick quarter turn or so in the tightening direction should tell you whether it's maxed out, or almost so. I don't get shying away from ones that have a few threads showing -- that just means full thread engagement, where one that only has a few threads into the nut has a chance to strip the end of the rod.
 

Wise Guy

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I don't know exactly how much it costs to replace a truss rod, but I understand it is usually over $500. I am inclined to think a 2006 Gibson Explorer is worth the repair. You clearly love the feel of it, so I wouldn't replace the whole neck. I hope the frets are in good shape!
No I definitely would not replace the neck. If anything I'll stream the fretboard off and pull the rod to replace it. I am far from being experienced enough to replace a neck!!
 


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