Truss rod channel curved or flat

[mangus]

Hi there,
I'm building my first neck for an explorer and I have a dual action Truss rod but I'm not sure whether the channel has to be curved or if it can be flat.
Can someone help?
I was planning to use a shaper to cut the slot

 

[Wallied]

Straight channel for a two-way rod, and curved for one-way rods.

 

[pshupe]

Definitely flat for a double action rod. Straight for vintage correct gibson but shallower at the nut end by about 1/8". If you have not checked out FreddyG's video series, check it out. IMO that is the best way to do a double action rod.

part 2 double cut build

Cheers Peter.

 

[mangus]

Thanks, just one more question, how deep do you cut it?

 

[Skyjerk]

Thanks, just one more question, how deep do you cut it?

Depends on the rod. Stewmac rods are a bit more narrow and slightly taller than LMII rods.
I use LMII rods. I install them so they are flush with the top surface of the neck. I cut only deep enough to permit the rod to fit in. I dont want to remove any more wood than necessary. Measure your rod and cut the channel just deep enough to install it flush.

I think Freddy goes a little deeper and installs a filler strip over top of it to make sure it wont rattle on the underside of the fretboard. At least thats how he did it on his current video series double-cut

 

[failsafe306]

I used an LMII two way rod for both of my explorers. 1/4” straight channel. On this latest build, I routed 1/16” deeper than normal and added a filler strip because on the first build, it took a while for the neck to settle into enough of a forward bow to actually use the truss rod, and so the rod would rattle a little bit.

 

[pshupe]

it took a while for the neck to settle into enough of a forward bow to actually use the truss rod, and so the rod would rattle a little bit.

If it was a two way rod, why did it need to settle? I guess if loosening put forward bow, but couldn't you just slightly loosen so it didn't rattle?

Cheers Peter

PS - I like this workflow. Seems to be a good idea to have the rod a little deeper with a cover strip.

 

[mangus]

If it was a two way rod, why did it need to settle? I guess if loosening put forward bow, but couldn't you just slightly loosen so it didn't rattle?

Cheers Peter

PS - I like this workflow. Seems to be a good idea to have the rod a little deeper with a cover strip.

Is there any advantage in installing the strip?

 

[failsafe306]

If it was a two way rod, why did it need to settle? I guess if loosening put forward bow, but couldn't you just slightly loosen so it didn't rattle?

Cheers Peter

PS - I like this workflow. Seems to be a good idea to have the rod a little deeper with a cover strip.

The action after setup was perfect without any adjustment from the TR. If I tightened the rod enough either way to stop the rattle completely it messes with the relief. After a couple of weeks, the neck eventually settled into enough forward bow that I was able to bring it back to ideal relief with a little bit of rod adjustment.
On this build I will be building in a slight forward bow before gluing the fretboard.

 

[valvetoneman]

This is why i always tension the rod and flat the fretboard again, i never want a rod without enough tension with perfect relief, it stops any possible rattling, i only use traditional ones now not the modern ones, i have had a rattle with a 2 way modern rod that's what really annoyed me, never again