The five factors which create the ‘1959 burst’ sound

scooter

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By Max Baranet



MAX BARANET AND LES PAUL

Various factors all came together in 1959 to produce what I, and many others, consider to be the ultimate electric guitar, the 1959 Burst. I have spent 38 years studying genuine 1950’s Bursts and reproducing their sound. I have found that there are five main factors responsible for creating the 1959 Burst sound.





@THE WOOD

The Honduras mahogany used in the 1950’s to build guitars was cut from trees that were hundreds of years old. This wood is often referred to as ‘old growth’. It is a very excellent carving wood. Due to its popularity with furniture makers, boat builders and guitar makers, it is now gone. Used up. The mahogany available now is grown on plantations. For whatever reasons it is very different from old growth mahogany. It might as well be considered a completely different type of wood. I have experimented with it and found it to be very unsatisfactory for reproducing a true 59 Burst tone compared to ‘old growth’ Honduras mahogany.

Since about 80% of the wood used to build a Burst is Honduras mahogany, this is obviously the most important wood contributing to the tone. I used only old growth Honduras mahogany from the 1950’s just like the 1950’s Bursts were built from.

I used old growth Brazilian rosewood for my fretboards and Eastern hard maple for the tops.





@THE GLUE

There are four basic pieces of wood that make a Burst style guitar. The fretboard, the neck, the body and the maple top. Obviously then there are three basic glue joints between the nut and bridge. One is between the fretboard and the neck, another between the neck and body and the third is between the body and the maple top. In order to produce good tone these four pieces must resonate as one.

For hundreds of years musical instrument builders used ‘hide glue’ to build guitars. Hide glue was still used in the 1950’s. This type of glue soaks into the wood and hardens to a glass like consistency. It leaves a minimal film between the two surfaces being joined. Since it dries to a glass like consistency it resonates with the vibrations in the guitar.

If you hold up a piece of glass and tap it lightly with a hard object it will ring. If you do the same with a sheet of plastic, the plastic will not ring, instead it absorbs the vibrations. The same principle is in effect with hide glue, brittle and glasslike, versus modern glues that are not.

Modern glues do not penetrate the wood as well as hide glue. They leave a film between each piece of wood. Thus the four basic pieces of the guitar are insulated from each other. The vibrations traveling through the guitar between the nut and the bridge are muffled at all three glue joints. Modern glues kill the tone of the guitar.

I used hide glue in the construction of these guitars.





@THE FINISH

In the 1950’s guitar manufacturers used nitrocellulose lacquer. This lacquer dries very hard and brittle. It becomes a resonant part of the guitar. Unfortunately it also chips and cracks more easily; therefore modern manufacturers don’t use it.

Modern lacquers use plasticizers that keep the finish soft and flexible. The same principle of the resonance of glass versus plastic applies here. It would be the same as wrapping large rubber bands around an acoustic guitar. The rubber bands would absorb the vibrations of the guitar and deaden the sound.

I used old style nitrocellulose lacquer (without plasticizers) on these guitars.





@CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATIONS

During my 30 years experience repairing and restoring musical instruments, I had the opportunity to closely inspect many vintage guitars. Gibson, Fender, Martin, Rickenbacker, Gretsch, etc. Many were damaged beyond repair and consequently I was able to completely dismantle them and blueprint them. It is from this valuable resource of data that I am able to build guitars today.

All specifications, dimensions, materials and construction procedures that contribute to the sound of an original 1950’s Burst are exactly duplicated in my guitars. Headstock angle, neck angle, scale length, neck profile, cavity sizes, etc., are all identical to an original 1950’s Burst.





@THE PICKUPS

The original 1950’s PAF pickup is definitely a very important factor in creating the ‘59 Burst tone. These can still be acquired from vintage parts dealers and are highly recommended. Presently I am using Lindy Fralins as I have found them to be very satisfactory compared to my reference set of original 1959 Double White PAFs that I have had since 1974.


Gibson is incorporating how many of these factors in current production?:hmm:
 

River

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Forgot the amp. Oopsie.

Self-service. It's a wonderful thing.
 

nicolasrivera

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:hmm:

By Max Baranet

......I have found.....

@THE WOOD

...I used old growth Brazilian rosewood for my fretboards and Eastern hard maple for the tops.

@THE GLUE
....I used hide glue in the construction of these guitars.....

@THE FINISH
......I used old style nitrocellulose lacquer (without plasticizers) on these guitars.....

@CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATIONS

During my 30 years experience.........


@THE PICKUPS
..... have found them......


Gibson is incorporating how many of these factors in current production?:hmm:
 

crompo

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Forgot the amp. Oopsie.

Self-service. It's a wonderful thing.

And the fingers !

Yep - imagine someone telling you their product is the best because ......
 

SKATTERBRANE

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It is okay as long as it is true. Having owned a MAX, I can attest that none of the 150 Gibson Les Pauls I have owned can touch it. (too bad he is not using the best pickups however!):shock::laugh2::cool:
 

nicolasrivera

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I've heard a test where a simple fungus turn a simple violin in to a better then stradivarius one....so...

Its all in the fungus!
 

SKATTERBRANE

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It is funny how people can claim that a Historic sounds better than a USA Standard or how two piece fretboard will hurt the tone, or VOS finish sounds differently than poly, but refuse to believe a MAX (or a similar replica) could possible sound better than a Historic!

This is what I think, people think THEIR Les Paul sounds better than the next step down, but if there is a next step up, well that it would sound better is cork sniffery.

People defend and rationalize their opinions.

If you cannot hear the difference between an Epi, a USA Standard, a Historic RI, or a great replica, then great, stick with your Epi.

If you can hear and/or feel the difference, why would other people scoff at this?

Now if your only criteria is through a bunch of tone sucking pedals, or everything dimed all the time, or such, then you may as well be playing a broom stick with EMGs or something.

Yep, glue DOES make a difference. It is nuance, not earth shaking difference like the taste of peanut butter vs popcorn. More like fresh vs frozen corn.
 

scooter

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There is a difference. When your ready to plunk 20 large down on a custom build and have a builder who's teaches you the process and shows you the tonal difference between woods and materials both good and bad only then can you truly see. Brought down my two best Gibsons to compare..... They are both gone now.
 

Thumpalumpacus

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There is a difference. When your ready to plunk 20 large down on a custom build and have a builder who's teaches you the process and shows you the tonal difference between woods and materials both good and bad only then can you truly see. Brought down my two best Gibsons to compare..... They are both gone now.

I'm fine with that. I'm just looking for objectivity.
 

River

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When your ready to plunk 20 large down on a custom build and have a builder who's teaches you the process and shows you the tonal difference between woods and materials both good and bad only then can you truly see.
Sorry, and I'm zipping up my flame suit, but that's not even a complete sentence.

I can afford that sort of thing, but I'll not be "teaches" that I need it by a builder, TUVM.

I've heard the tonal differences between various hand-selected woods. And I've heard them disappear with the twitch of a gain/drive/volume knob.

Which leaves me wondering - what's the point of this thread?

:hmm:
 

SuiteAmpCo

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I installed a racing muffler on my car. Didn't make a huge difference, a lil more top end. I put the old one back on. I then installed a racing air intake, didn't make a huge difference, a lil more off the line. I put the old one back on. I then installed a racing cam, a good difference but wasn't gonna win a trophy. I put the old one back in. Then I had the head rebuilt, a good difference, but still no trophies. I then put all the other racing parts back in. Huge difference, won a trophy! Hmmmm...seems like all those lil differences working together made a real huge difference. Hmmm...go figure.:cool:
 

Thumpalumpacus

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You have to try it for yourself to get that. The more appropriate challenge would be comparing a MAX to a real burst. Then you would really be splitting hairs.

No, even that wouldn't be objective ... it would only be my opinion.
 

AxeBuilder

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By Max Baranet



MAX BARANET AND LES PAUL

Various factors all came together in 1959 to produce what I, and many others, consider to be the ultimate electric guitar, the 1959 Burst. I have spent 38 years studying genuine 1950’s Bursts and reproducing their sound. I have found that there are five main factors responsible for creating the 1959 Burst sound.





@THE WOOD

The Honduras mahogany used in the 1950’s to build guitars was cut from trees that were hundreds of years old. This wood is often referred to as ‘old growth’. It is a very excellent carving wood. Due to its popularity with furniture makers, boat builders and guitar makers, it is now gone. Used up. The mahogany available now is grown on plantations. For whatever reasons it is very different from old growth mahogany. It might as well be considered a completely different type of wood. I have experimented with it and found it to be very unsatisfactory for reproducing a true 59 Burst tone compared to ‘old growth’ Honduras mahogany.

Since about 80% of the wood used to build a Burst is Honduras mahogany, this is obviously the most important wood contributing to the tone. I used only old growth Honduras mahogany from the 1950’s just like the 1950’s Bursts were built from.

I used old growth Brazilian rosewood for my fretboards and Eastern hard maple for the tops.





@THE GLUE

There are four basic pieces of wood that make a Burst style guitar. The fretboard, the neck, the body and the maple top. Obviously then there are three basic glue joints between the nut and bridge. One is between the fretboard and the neck, another between the neck and body and the third is between the body and the maple top. In order to produce good tone these four pieces must resonate as one.

For hundreds of years musical instrument builders used ‘hide glue’ to build guitars. Hide glue was still used in the 1950’s. This type of glue soaks into the wood and hardens to a glass like consistency. It leaves a minimal film between the two surfaces being joined. Since it dries to a glass like consistency it resonates with the vibrations in the guitar.

If you hold up a piece of glass and tap it lightly with a hard object it will ring. If you do the same with a sheet of plastic, the plastic will not ring, instead it absorbs the vibrations. The same principle is in effect with hide glue, brittle and glasslike, versus modern glues that are not.

Modern glues do not penetrate the wood as well as hide glue. They leave a film between each piece of wood. Thus the four basic pieces of the guitar are insulated from each other. The vibrations traveling through the guitar between the nut and the bridge are muffled at all three glue joints. Modern glues kill the tone of the guitar.

I used hide glue in the construction of these guitars.





@THE FINISH

In the 1950’s guitar manufacturers used nitrocellulose lacquer. This lacquer dries very hard and brittle. It becomes a resonant part of the guitar. Unfortunately it also chips and cracks more easily; therefore modern manufacturers don’t use it.

Modern lacquers use plasticizers that keep the finish soft and flexible. The same principle of the resonance of glass versus plastic applies here. It would be the same as wrapping large rubber bands around an acoustic guitar. The rubber bands would absorb the vibrations of the guitar and deaden the sound.

I used old style nitrocellulose lacquer (without plasticizers) on these guitars.





@CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATIONS

During my 30 years experience repairing and restoring musical instruments, I had the opportunity to closely inspect many vintage guitars. Gibson, Fender, Martin, Rickenbacker, Gretsch, etc. Many were damaged beyond repair and consequently I was able to completely dismantle them and blueprint them. It is from this valuable resource of data that I am able to build guitars today.

All specifications, dimensions, materials and construction procedures that contribute to the sound of an original 1950’s Burst are exactly duplicated in my guitars. Headstock angle, neck angle, scale length, neck profile, cavity sizes, etc., are all identical to an original 1950’s Burst.





@THE PICKUPS

The original 1950’s PAF pickup is definitely a very important factor in creating the ‘59 Burst tone. These can still be acquired from vintage parts dealers and are highly recommended. Presently I am using Lindy Fralins as I have found them to be very satisfactory compared to my reference set of original 1959 Double White PAFs that I have had since 1974.


Gibson is incorporating how many of these factors in current production?:hmm:

Shameless self-promotion. Some good info regardless; however, I like the explanations in the technical section of the Beauty of the Burst better....:thumb:

Now, does anyone have any 60-year old Mahogany furniture they'd like to get rid of?
 

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