Tele String Trees and Tuners Experiences from Builders and Modders?

KP11520

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Hey Guys,

Your collective experience is probably the best on the Internet and why I'm asking you, what works best.

I have a new Tele Neck. Quartersawn Roasted Maple one piece with a Quartersawn Roasted Maple Fretboard. Done with a 10" radius and 22 6150 SS frets. Leveled and Bone nut cut. Satin NCL on front and back and Gloss NCL on the headstock. This is my idea of perfection. 10mm Tuner holes.

I like higher ratio tuners, like 18:1. I find it easier to nail dead on tuning with my Strobe Tuner faster (Turbo Tuner ST300). So, hopefully that's not a problem. Maybe even locking for that added bit of stability, despite using a fixed bridge (Babicz FCH).

Then the string trees..... Tusq XL, or Roller or Simple, like our famous Chris (skyjerk) uses. (Fender American String Guides)

Tuning stability is paramount for both decisions.

As always, thank you all in advance!!!
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ARandall

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I've had guitars with great tuning stability using a wide variety of trees.
For mine I would look at the cosmetics of the nut and tuners and choose based on that. A really modern tuner and a vintage looking tree can often look odd together.
 

KP11520

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I was wondering if that's the case.

the roller trees have a good rep I think.

I've had guitars with great tuning stability using a wide variety of trees.
For mine I would look at the cosmetics of the nut and tuners and choose based on that. A really modern tuner and a vintage looking tree can often look odd together.

Hey AR, You're right, I shouldn't totally ignore aesthetics. I hope I have your luck finding stability on my first pass. I hate making mistakes... So I make more instead. LOL
 

Paul46

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Is there enough headstock angle for staggered locking tuners?
Then you wouldn't need a string tree at all.
 

KP11520

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It's a typical Tele headstock, set back somewhat, but parallel to the plane of the fretboard. There would be hardly any break for the first 2 to 3 strings.

Most likely a two, two string tree situation, with one pair of strings (third and forth) attached around the fifth string tuner and the second tree (first and second strings) set a little further out for all strings to have enough "break" over the nut.

Is there enough headstock angle for staggered locking tuners?
Then you wouldn't need a string tree at all.
 

ARandall

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Hey AR, You're right, I shouldn't totally ignore aesthetics. I hope I have your luck finding stability on my first pass. I hate making mistakes... So I make more instead. LOL

The nut is the crucial bit. Especially as the 3rd string doesn't usually have a tree and it usually has the worst issues.

Staggered height tuners could help as mentioned.

But the tree type would fit in the same place....so once installed a simple 'screw out-screw in' if you find your initial choice not working is quick and easy.
 

Freddy G

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I like the old school button tree on just the E and B. Functionally just as good as anything else for a tele and I think it looks great. I'd go with staggered tuners too to avoid having a tree for the D and G. Now if we were talking a guitar with a tremolo then graphite or roller trees would be better.
 

WhiteEpiLP

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Sperzal stepped locking tuners, no need for string trees the tuners get lower from low e to high e.
 

KP11520

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Thank you Gentlemen! This is my first Tele and Tele build, so I really appreciate your experience(s).

Freddy, you're not the first that suggested the button types. Tommy at USACG said the exact same thing.

So, now you all have me thinking about these stepped/staggered tuners. Sperzal Eh? Locking? Higher Ratio? In my mind, I'm seeing what Freddy described for at least one button for the e and b strings for no compromises on string break over the nut. (Bone)

Is there a consensus on Sperzal or should I also consider others?

Luthier's Corner is worth its weight in Gold!

The nut is the crucial bit. Especially as the 3rd string doesn't usually have a tree and it usually has the worst issues.

Staggered height tuners could help as mentioned.

But the tree type would fit in the same place....so once installed a simple 'screw out-screw in' if you find your initial choice not working is quick and easy.

I like the old school button tree on just the E and B. Functionally just as good as anything else for a tele and I think it looks great. I'd go with staggered tuners too to avoid having a tree for the D and G. Now if we were talking a guitar with a tremolo then graphite or roller trees would be better.

Sperzal stepped locking tuners, no need for string trees the tuners get lower from low e to high e.
 

Freddy G

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Thank you Gentlemen! This is my first Tele and Tele build, so I really appreciate your experience(s).

Freddy, you're not the first that suggested the button types. Tommy at USACG said the exact same thing.

So, now you all have me thinking about these stepped/staggered tuners. Sperzal Eh? Locking? Higher Ratio? In my mind, I'm seeing what Freddy described for at least one button for the e and b strings for no compromises on string break over the nut. (Bone)

Is there a consensus on Sperzal or should I also consider others?

Luthier's Corner is worth its weight in Gold!

Not a big Spertzel fan....I like the Hipshot staggered locking tuners. https://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=380
 

moreles

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I agree with Hipshots over Sperzels. No contest, IMO. Smoother, more even action. String trees: I make my own out of bone (in a two-string bar shape, though contoured much more nicely than anything you can buy) and match the nut in color. The string groove is highly polished (lubed if you want) for minimal friction.
 

KP11520

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Thank you Freddy! I never even considered Staggered! And these have everything I want as well and the reviews saying exactly what you do! Precise and smooth! And staggered! :thumb:

Now, they have an opened back version at 18:1 and the closed version at 16:1. You posted the link to the closed back, so I'm assuming that's the best decision for longevity and maintenance free. Is this the case?

Thank you as always! Your sharing of your great experience is a gift for us that are looking to go further into the world of a Luthier! (And a Recording Engineer, Theatrical Consultant, Rock Star, and so on) :cool:

Not a big Spertzel fan....I like the Hipshot staggered locking tuners. https://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=380

Hey more, thank you for taking the time to seal the deal on Hipshots! I'd love to be a fly on the wall when you make those Bone String Tree Bars! Got Pics? :D

I agree with Hipshots over Sperzels. No contest, IMO. Smoother, more even action. String trees: I make my own out of bone (in a two-string bar shape, though contoured much more nicely than anything you can buy) and match the nut in color. The string groove is highly polished (lubed if you want) for minimal friction.

Thanks again Gentlemen! :wave:
 

kakerlak

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I always liked the old-style G&L string trees, as they're curved to glide nicely and cover all three un-wound strings:


As for staggered tuners... IMO they don't replace the function of a string tree. A string sitting down at the base of the tuner is usually going to have a slighter break angle at the nut than one running under a string tree. OTOH, I feel that the unrestrained G string and vintage location string tree for the B and E gives a pretty weak break angle at the nut that it part of the vintage tele sound -- a loud, kind of ringy sound with a lot of overtones.
 

ARandall

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It was I think EVH who ran his original frankenstrat without the locking nut on the floyd, but also with tall tuners and the string entering the tuning peg the highest he possibly could. His theory was that the down angle over the nut was part of the tuning issue. And the minimum possible that allowed the string to vibrate without wanting to jump out of the slot was best.
 

KP11520

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LOL....

OK, now you guys are throwing some very fast curve balls that are just catching the corners on me.... Steee Rike!

Looking at that ol G&L makes me think: Why not cover all 5 strings somewhere between the sixth and fifth peg? A nice Bone or Tusq XL bar?

But then who knows how that'd affect the timbre of those coveted tonez?

Or just go Naked Nudie like AR mentions about EVH? Fascinating Captain! :hmm:

The String Tree thing seems a bit more a personal decision. If it works and sounds good to whomever, it's good! No decision is absolute.

But the Hipshot Tuners are exactly what I'm looking for. No Brainer! :cool:

What do you all use to lubricate your Bone Nut? I've read everything from graphite dust from pencils to 3-IN-ONE Oil. Mine is NOT notched very deep! (see below). Thanks as always Gentlemen! It's good of you to share your thoughts and experiences. :thumb:

I always liked the old-style G&L string trees, as they're curved to glide nicely and cover all three un-wound strings:


As for staggered tuners... IMO they don't replace the function of a string tree. A string sitting down at the base of the tuner is usually going to have a slighter break angle at the nut than one running under a string tree. OTOH, I feel that the unrestrained G string and vintage location string tree for the B and E gives a pretty weak break angle at the nut that it part of the vintage tele sound -- a loud, kind of ringy sound with a lot of overtones.

It was I think EVH who ran his original frankenstrat without the locking nut on the floyd, but also with tall tuners and the string entering the tuning peg the highest he possibly could. His theory was that the down angle over the nut was part of the tuning issue. And the minimum possible that allowed the string to vibrate without wanting to jump out of the slot was best.
 

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ARandall

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There are plenty of guitars that have a bar behind the nut...the Hagstrom H3 for example.
 

timgman

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I will say this..my 100% stock 93 american standard is my favorite guitar to play.. it has the standard american trees.. and the D&G do not have a tree...
THEY NEED ONE. not enough break tension on the nut even when down winding the strings..
 

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