String Breakage Revisited

OHIOSTEVE

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Seriously, look at the link in post #11 above. It defines the problem and suggests a solution — a rather involved one at that. It makes me wonder if an easier solution might work. What about gluing some metal washers with the right hole diameter inside the bridge plate?
That was a good link.....I have not inspected with a mirror but OTHER THAN THE ELIXERS the windings are not really even showing so I don't think the bridge plate is messed up. I think I was not repairing the saddle properly. I did not realize that the string grooves were an issue as long as they were smooth. And as far as me not following advice. I DID contact a world class luthier who told me what he would do, and knowing me knew I could do it myself. And if that does not work it will go to him.
 

Olds442

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That was a good link.....I have not inspected with a mirror but OTHER THAN THE ELIXERS the windings are not really even showing so I don't think the bridge plate is messed up. I think I was not repairing the saddle properly. I did not realize that the string grooves were an issue as long as they were smooth. And as far as me not following advice. I DID contact a world class luthier who told me what he would do, and knowing me knew I could do it myself. And if that does not work it will go to him.
follow your heart.
 

Dolebludger

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OHIOSTEVE,

If it is only the Elixer strings that cause the windings to be over the bridge (or very near to it), it seems the solution would be to change the strings to another brand of strings as a first step. If you still have breakage problems with strings that have a shorter winding, you might try a new bridge and cut the slots as shallow as possible that will still hold the strings in place. I am not a fan of deep bridge slots. On my electrics, I find that shallow bridge slots give a better tone as well.
 

OHIOSTEVE

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OHIOSTEVE,

If it is only the Elixer strings that cause the windings to be over the bridge (or very near to it), it seems the solution would be to change the strings to another brand of strings as a first step. If you still have breakage problems with strings that have a shorter winding, you might try a new bridge and cut the slots as shallow as possible that will still hold the strings in place. I am not a fan of deep bridge slots. On my electrics, I find that shallow bridge slots give a better tone as well.
Already switched brands. The advice of Mark was to remove the saddle slots completely. It is funny that you mentioned tone. I told my wife that I know there is no way it could be but it sure seemed to have brightened the guitar up some.
 

parts

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Maybe totally wrong..but.. Some hard strikers tend to use a circular attack on the strings. I knew guys that broke G strings a lot. Flatening out the striking (not starting high then digging in and rising out ),, Just a thought..

I knew guys trying to project with an acoustic using that circular windup
 

Dolebludger

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OHIOSTEVE,

I confess that I know little about the tone of acoustic guitars, but on my electrics the shallowest bridge slots possible to keep the strings in place brightens and the tone and increases sustain. Also, I like the part of the bridge that contacts the strings to be as much “knife edge” as possible. That is why I have Gotoh bridges that come with only “starter slots” on my Gibson and Epi”. I had to file the low E slot just a bit to keep the string in place in the Epi, but did no filing for the vintage Gibson SG. Also, those bridges set up this way have a very narrow string contact area.

Keep in mind that I have only one acoustic with a pezo pup, that I scarcely ever play. But I find that this bridge mod works well on my 11 electrics to improve primary tone, which I feel affects amplified tone. And if your strings stay in place with no bridge slots, go with that! If that works, please let me know and I will try that on my one acoustic.
 

OHIOSTEVE

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Maybe totally wrong..but.. Some hard strikers tend to use a circular attack on the strings. I knew guys that broke G strings a lot. Flatening out the striking (not starting high then digging in and rising out ),, Just a thought..

I knew guys trying to project with an acoustic using that circular windup
That may be part....solo I use in ears so I can hear perfectly. I never break strings. In the group I have issues hearing myself so I think I am playing harder trying to hear myself and break strings in the process.
 

LtDave32

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I had this washing machine once.

It stopped in mid-cycle.

So I gave it a big kick, and the darned thing started up again.
 

LtDave32

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I know.. I've got the answer.

It's the thermostat.
 

LtDave32

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You guys are HI-larious.....like a broken leg lol.
Are your legs breaking too?

Well, there's this old luthier's trick, see..

If you take a pencil and rub some of its graphite around your socks, then when you put your pants on, it will lubricate the pants leg and it will be less prone to breakage.
 

Dolebludger

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OHIOSTEVE,

Do you amplify your acoustics by some sort of pup or a mic? If not, you might try it to allow for a softer string attack. You might break fewer strings and have more control over your tone. But one thing that is hard to understand is that you are breaking a wound D string. Those are hard to break! Most hard strummers break smaller unwound strings.
 

LtDave32

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You guys are plain evil.

And you owe me for the Aberlour double cask I just snorted.
That's the price of foolin' round the backstage, CJ..

Next time, read it while sippin' a cheaper booze.
 


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