Strat vs. Tuning Stability

[The_Nuge]

Hi!
I own two Strats, the Eric Johnson and Dave Murray USA models, both equipped with a vintage-style trem and regular nut.
The Johnson I practically never have to tune, whereas the Murray needs fine-tuning after a few songs.
The Johnson is a bit more clever in terms of staggered tuners and no string tree, but I'm still surprised how much more stable it is.
Any tips on how to make the Murray more stable?

 

[jimmyjames]

Do you use heavier trem action when playing the DM? I notice no arm on the EJ. Are both trems set similarly with spring count/tension ? Is the EJ trem blocked or decked? String gauges/tuning the same on each? Both necks fully tight on body? Nice rig BTW

 

[SWeAT hOg]

Did you try lubing the nut on the DM? IMO, unless yer divebombing with the vibrato, most tuning issues are solved at the nut.

 

[tzd]

Do all strings go out of tune or just the high e and B?

 

[The_Nuge]

Do you use heavier trem action when playing the DM? I notice no arm on the EJ. Are both trems set similarly with spring count/tension ? Is the EJ trem blocked or decked? String gauges/tuning the same on each? Both necks fully tight on body? Nice rig BTW

Thanks!
Not really heavy on the trem - the EJ has no arm on the pic because I temporarily misplaced it - I just use the trem for a bit of shimmer.
The EJ has 10s, the Murray 9s ATM - but came with 10 or 11s when I got it. Haven't noticed any difference in the tuning stabilty between the two gauges.
Necks are tight on both!

Did you try lubing the nut on the DM? IMO, unless yer divebombing with the vibrato, most tuning issues are solved at the nut.

I've put some nut sauce on the nut, but hasn't done the trick.

Do all strings go out of tune or just the high e and B?

Mainly G and B - but not only.

The string tree on the Murray is fully screwed down with no spacer - is that maybe the issue? Too much of a break abgle over the nut?

 

[tzd]

The vintage style string tree could possibly be part of the issue, but you also need to look at the tremolo. Is the tremolo bridge tight and fully decked to the body? If not, it could be the trem not returning to its original position when used.

For the string tree, you can change them out to roller or graph tech string tree. Also clean and lube the nut slots.

For the 6-screw tremolo, raise the middle 4 screws very slightly so that only the two outer screws are controlling the bridge height and pivot.

 

[jimmyjames]

Great thread here, I love LPs, but it's great to hear a Strat strut

 

[The_Nuge]

Hi!
I lubed the nut and string tree with some more Nut Lube, and that has helped some!
Next string change I'll give it a big once-over including the trem, but for now it should do!

I've just played it for an hour or so, with the guitar going into a TC Spark Booster -> TC Chorus -> Lehle ABY and then into both my Bluesbreaker Clone and Stramp 2100 "Plexi" - great fun! The Stramp is diode rectified and has tighter bottom-end, but a bit less gain, whereas the Bluesbreaker is looser but creamier. Not exactly a carry-around rig but tone in buckets

 

[Stevie 202]

The string tree might be the prob
Try a different type maybe

 

[SWeAT hOg]

Hi!
I lubed the nut and string tree with some more Nut Lube, and that has helped some!
Next string change I'll give it a big once-over including the trem, but for now it should do!

I've just played it for an hour or so, with the guitar going into a TC Spark Booster -> TC Chorus -> Lehle ABY and then into both my Bluesbreaker Clone and Stramp 2100 "Plexi" - great fun! The Stramp is diode rectified and has tighter bottom-end, but a bit less gain, whereas the Bluesbreaker is looser but creamier. Not exactly a carry-around rig but tone in buckets

Maybe get the nut looked at or swapped out. To me, sounds like it's binding in the nut slots.

 

[dc007]

Maybe get the nut looked at or swapped out. To me, sounds like it's binding in the nut slots.

Agreed....OP said the guitar came with 10's or 11's and now is strung with 9's. Strings could possibly be a little deep in the slots

 

[Dolebludger]

Two ideas. First I block my Fender style terms with one of those “L” shaped blockers that install in the trem cavity. I can still trem down but not up, and I rarely use the trem anyway, and the blocker helps tuning stability, sustain, and tone. Second, if the tuning instability is on strings with the string trees, removing them, increasing their height, or replacing them with roller trees might help. Non roller trees can be an additional point of string bind, thus tuning instability.

 

[David Garner]

EJ has a real bone nut. Murray has synthetic “bone.” In my experience, real bone tends to be more stable.

 

[The_Nuge]

EJ has a real bone nut. Murray has synthetic “bone.” In my experience, real bone tends to be more stable.

My Murray had a bone nut retrofitted. With new strings and careful lubrication of the nut and string tree it's become much more stable, but is still not quite as stable as the EJ.

 

[Freddy G]

Um...that's why they make locking tuners with staggered posts.

 

[jc2000]

When I bought mine the bridge was way high, I dropped it down and have no tuning issues since.