***Some of build questions***

JKHamby

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1. Router bits. For the pickup cavity/legs I used a 3/8 top bearing bit so that I could match the radius of template. However, the trade off is that the bit is only 1/2 in cutting length so I couldn't reach the full depth on the legs using the template.
Q: what do you do to avoid this problem?

2. Cutting the truss rod access. I have the pilot and counterbore tool. But I read in one of the build threads about using a spacer in the channel. However the height of the spacer wasn't discussed.
Q: What is the size of the spacer you use to cut this access? (I still have to cut my 3/16 filler strip).

3. Looking at the headstock inlay on my goldie, there are some colors in the tone. What should I be looking for as far as blanks to cut from? I am not using a "Gibson" inlay but my own brand, cut in the style of Gibson font.

Thanks,

Jason
 

cmjohnson

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Once you've cut far enough into the wood, the guide bearing rides on the wood in the cavity you've already started. At this point, you can remove the template and keep routing deeper until you run out of adjustment room.
 

Qam

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1. Unaccustomed as I am to speak on the dirty workings of the woodworker as I am with How To Get Fat Chicks or achieve Platinum awards that authentically only fool children: I believe you can set the bearing depth to ride at least .062" above the body, then hog out the perimeter against template full-circle, before plinking off the middle piece chunks and resetting full depth of cut, riding on the perimeter in the body, NOT the template.

(How would you avoid...) use a 1" depth straight flute bearing guided 3/8" carbide and compensate the unneeded thickness away by doubling or tripling template thickness. You dont want to but know you have to.

OR just rebuild and use an old pinrouter.

1.5 (ok so how do I get that odd "height-adjust" ears) What's that, you say? The OG template prints you got don't have that indicated?

Not too certain of this, but you can go the final depth for the screws depressions by removing the template and doing it by eye with a straight-flute 1/4" in one shot, making a "figure-eight" motion with your fingers. Or like Sam Kennison once explained to me personally on the matter: Use your tongue and just pretend to draw the Alphabet until to get to letter Z."

You do this, by just "hugging" the wall of the cut. It works. Sam is gone but why would he lie... you're just making an oval cut inside the 11/16" one you just did, for 3/8" further.. it ain't a big deal if its crooked.

2. Jason, headstock dimensions vary based on the angle and thickness of the headstock finished face dimensions. Get a cheap angle finder by Xacto or General, and a couple micrometers for more relevant answers because you got to tell us what youre building here - Qam gave up on mindreading after the last domestic dispute when the police were called...

3. .045" to .050" pearl or abalone shell blanks depending. Once youre done, try the vinegar trick and let us know if it works: thats the one where you turn the shell to rubber and stretch the script out like the pre-CBS Fender spaghetti logo.
 

ARandall

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1. Use/buy a longer bit. You will not get to the bottom of the required depth with that fullstop, let alone worrying what the bearing is going to ride on.

2. Do you have the plans for a Les Paul build??? Its simple to do by simply laying the tool on the appropriate part of the plan and simply measuring where the pilot drillbit shaft sits in relation to the TR channel when the tool is placed at the right depth. Thats the point of having the plans in the first place.....so you can doublecheck all of these aspects.

3. Pick the shell you want to see. MOP and abalone has 'figure' in it, but its unique to the individual bits you get. Find a supplier and pick a type to suit your own tastes.....its your guitar after all.
 

Qam

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I believe a .045" shell blank is one heckuva lot easier to saw through by hand than ten-to-fifteen thousandths thicker.
 


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