- May 15, 2020
- Reaction score
Damn, what a struggle, there is so much metal by the time the solder melts the plastic shielding has also. Any suggestions?
thanks, useful info, i will give it a go.As mentioned practice makes perfect, I expect many people have their own way and preference. I was thought by my father when i was 12 or so. I am unsure on the correct wording in English so here goes. I use tin or solder with rosin core or whatever I have laying around.
What works for me is to first put tin on the wire so the bare copper has a thin layer of tin on it. Even if the wire is already tinned I still refresh with new tin.
The next step is to put a tin on the joints of the jack, I add tin as soon as I touch the joint with the iron, the tin will increase the contact surface so the heat can spread. On the joint I try cover the surface with tin just a tiny bit larger then the size of the wire but not by much. After that is done I prefer to let it cool down before I join the two together otherwise the whole jack is likely to get heated to the point where plastic will start to melt.
Once it is cooled I reheat the joint and add the wire, keep heating so the tin flows on both parts and add tin if needed but not to much, remove the iron, let it cool and keep still. If you do not keep still the tin will harden with a matte look, this can mean there are cracks in the tin. The tin should preferably harden with a shiny look. Another thing to remember is that to much tin is not ideal, a big blob is not needed. The wire should touch the joint as much as possible with not a lot of tin between the two.
This is my technique, might not work for everyone. Hope it is at least of some help.