- Dec 2, 2008
- Reaction score
I'm curious how everyone else does it and in what order.
Great template! It would seem most appropriate to use it for making three different spaced ones in aluminum. Then carefully store those plastic ones, as they won't hold up very long even in a mild production environment!I am a big fan of many templates from Potvin guitars, I would say I still managed to get a side dot that was off on one of my latest builds, but this will give you a seriously good shot at putting them exactly where you want them.
On that very related note, I find the three knobs aren't totally sufficient (hence my blunder) and the template can still slide slightly if you're not careful. So I put two quick clamps on in addition to clamp it to the MDF base I made and then it stays in place no matter what.
I had Fender/Gibson/Martin scale lengths put on mine that should cover just about any build I'd want.
Very valid point, and I try to keep master router templates safe for this very reason. This method would probably not hold up in a serious production environment, but for a hobby builder I think I will get a nice long life out of it. To me the selling point of using transparent plastic is there is a center line down the length of the scale so you can see exactly where the dot will be when you drill and hopefully avoids the dot that ends up peeking through the top of the binding.Great template! It would seem most appropriate to use it for making three different spaced ones in aluminum. Then carefully store those plastic ones, as they won't hold up very long even in a mild production environment!
That's the way I set 'em up, Pete..I just measure center between frets and then center of first and last dot on the width of the fret board. Then draw a straight line from first to last. Use a sharp awl to mark locations to drill. That way I can check alignment before I drill. I have not had an issue with this method.
View attachment 532695