Schaller S-locks...

[Jake69]

... in place.

I noticed the original screws were different size, the neck screw being considerably smaller. Whereas the new Schaller ones both were the same size. The new ones being integrated with the strap button I could not use the original screws. Just hope the bigger Schaller one won't crack the mahogany. I tightened it reeeally slowly and didn't see or hear anything alarming.

 

[Peter M]

Yeah, for strap buttons, Gibson just uses the screw lengths they have on hand at the time. No real rhyme or reason to it.

As long as you don't force anything, the Schaller screws work fine.

 

[Leee]

The new S-Locks suck ass in my opinion.
The redesign caused more problems than it solved.

Used Schaller strap locks for 30 years.
It’s a standard mod.
They go on everything I own.
I developed several tips and tricks to make it more effective and reliable.

Now I’m using Fender strap locks, which are basically that same design from way back when.

I did a whole thread on this elsewhere, I will see if I can find it.

 

[swaffy101]

Neck time if you are worried about how much resistance you getting, use a little bit of wax to lube the screw. Makes it much easier.

 

[Jake69]

The new S-Locks suck ass in my opinion.
The redesign caused more problems than it solved.

Used Schaller strap locks for 30 years.
It’s a standard mod.
They go on everything I own.
I developed several tips and tricks to make it more effective and reliable.

Now I’m using Fender strap locks, which are basically that same design from way back when.

I did a whole thread on this elsewhere, I will see if I can find it.

Care to explain what type of problems?

 

[Leee]

First is the oversized auger screw attached directly to the strap pin.

If you decide you don’t want to use the Schaller pin anymore, you’re literally screwed.
Nothing else will work in that hole now.

You could always find a replacement screw that big that would use the same threads.
At least I presume so.
But it will never fit through the hole in any other strap button.

I made it a rule to reuse the screws already installed in the guitar whenever I put Schaller pins on.
On a Gibson, this often meant I had to drill out the hole through the center of the Schaller pin, and file down the outer diameter of the screw head slightly so it would fit inside.

It was worth it to me to preserve the threads already cut in the body.

I think it is Mojo Axe now that sells the stuff already modified.
I’ve never bought it.
Always done it myself.

 

[Leee]

I discovered the new S-Locks when I was doing a Warmoth Telecaster build several years ago.

The body had not been drilled for a strap pan, so it would be whatever I made it.
I pulled that big honking thing out of the box, and I had to think about it for a few minutes.

Oh well, it’s not a Fender body.
It’s mine.
And as long as I own it, the Schallers will never come off.
So I drilled the holes big and deep enough to accommodate that new style of pin.

My other complaint is the new locking mechanism on my guitar strap.
That goddamn thing probably weighs a pound and a half.

Sure, it works.
But I could just see it swinging and banging into my guitar and causing damage.

Again, I had figured out a couple of tricks to keep the original smaller mechanism tight on the strap.
They work fine for me.

 

[Jake69]

Thanks. Appreciate. Guess I'm f...ed.

 

[Leee]

Warmoth Tele

I built a very unique Telecaster, and I don’t ever expect to sell it.

As a result, I didn’t give the new S-Lock any more thought. Just went ahead.
But I would never install them on an existing guitar, and I refuse to use that heavy-ass new-style locking mechanism on any of my guitar straps.

 

[Leee]

Thanks. Appreciate. Guess I'm f...ed.

No.
But you are committed.

You’re a Schaller S-Lock guy now!

Like I said, I have Schallers on everything I own. Doesn’t matter to me.
It’s the next guy’s problem if you ever sell the guitar.

 

[Jake69]

Just kidding. Just as you cleverly modded the Schaller buttons I can plug and re-drill that hole should I need to. But so far everything's looking good and the strap looks seem to work ok.

 

[Leee]

Some of the Guild guitars had a huge pin pressed into the bottom of the body.

I pulled those out, drilled a 3/8” hole, and plugged it with a short piece of mahogany dowel - that I still have.

Drilled a screw hole in the center of the dowel, and put my Schaller pin on as usual.
The strap button covered the dowel.

 

[Jake69]

Some of the Guild guitars had a huge pin pressed into the bottom of the body.

I pulled those out, drilled a 3/8” hole, and plugged it with a short piece of mahogany dowel - that I still have.

Drilled a screw hole in the center of the dowel, and put my Schaller pin on as usual.
The strap button covered the dowel.

Yeah, figured something like that. But for now, this looks fine to me.

BTW - the tone, resonance, brilliance and feel of this guitar is just outstanding. Even unplugged. Fills me with some sort of Stradivarious feeling and respect. And happiness. Just love this one.

 

[KSPaul]

My gripe with the new s-locks is that there seems (to me) to be much more friction between the U-cups of the locks and the strap buttons.

I like that the old locks would allow smooth, noiseless pivoting. With the new locks, it feels (to me) like any pivoting will cause the button screws to back out.

 

[Jake69]

My gripe with the new s-locks is that there seems (to me) to be much more friction between the U-cups of the locks and the strap buttons.

I like that the old locks would allow smooth, noiseless pivoting. With the new locks, it feels (to me) like any pivoting will cause the button screws to back out.

The ones I installed has got close to zero friction. They turn freely and without any noise or rattle.

 

[jreeves]

I put a drop of sewing machine oil in each strap lock cup just to make sure they travel smooth

 

[Aahzz]

I've used Schallers since the early 90s - and I LOVE the new version. So much more secure! The nut on the old style was always loosening on me.

 

[Leee]

The nut on the old style was always loosening on me.

Instead of an open end wrench, and busting your knuckles, use a good 6-point 1/2” socket and cinch the shit out of it.
(13 mm is not the same thing…)

EDIT: It seems that some use a nut that is 13 mm. Check yours to be sure.

I use a large flathead screwdriver or closed needle-nose pliers inside the horseshoe to hold back-up as I tighten it.

You will have to compress the leather.
At some point down the road, in a few weeks or months, tighten it again.
You should be good forever at that point.

I have some leather straps over 20 years old that are still tight.

 

[Aahzz]

Instead of an open end wrench, and busting your knuckles, use a good 6-point 1/2” socket and cinch the shit out of it.
(13 mm is not the same thing…)

I use a large flathead screwdriver inside the horseshoe to hold back-up as I tighten it down.

You will have to compress the leather.
At some point down the road, in a few weeks or months, tighten it again.
You should be good forever at that point.

I have some leather straps over 20 years old that are still tight.

Or I could just use the new ones - they work fine for me and I have them on everything. Glad you found a way to keep the old style secure.

 

[Leee]

Just don’t bang the heavy damned thing into your guitar!