Saddles, shot?

robgil

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
105
Reaction score
66
They look pretty worn out to me, any thoughts?
saddle1.JPG
saddle2a.jpg
saddle2b.jpg
saddle3.JPG
 

LSAR

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2012
Messages
1,243
Reaction score
1,452
I wouldn't say "shot". One should be able with the appropriate tools and techniques to smooth those saddles out while maintaining the appropriate radius and I wouldn't think that'd be a problem.
 

Left Paw

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2013
Messages
4,349
Reaction score
2,843
I dunno. Some of those slots are pretty deep. Not that expensive to start over with a new saddle (or just the inserts) and make everything kosher.
 

robgil

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
105
Reaction score
66
Is it possible to buy genuine Epiphone parts? Or are aftermarket better?
 

PierM

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2016
Messages
6,284
Reaction score
12,506
Is it possible to buy genuine Epiphone parts? Or are aftermarket better?

Epiphone MiC hardware is made out of very low quality materials, usually very soft and dull sounding. I would really swap the entire bridge with a Faber ABRM.

As for your specific situation; those saddles are overslotted, this is just forcing you to keep the bridge higher, to compensate, other then choking the strings vibration.
The strings shouldn't sink down in the nut, nor in the bridge saddles slots. They should just sit on top of proper notches, with half string free on the top.
 

robgil

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
105
Reaction score
66
That's always been my train of thought too. I see that new saddles need slotted, I take it I will need a set of nut files?
 

PierM

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2016
Messages
6,284
Reaction score
12,506
That's always been my train of thought too. I see that new saddles need slotted, I take it I will need a set of nut files?

If you go with Faber ABRM (M stays for Metric), you already have the saddles with starter notches, which means the bridge could work as it is, out of the box, or might be you need to refine the notches. Depends on the bridge you'll receive.

I would just pick the ABRM, and use it as it is. If you see you have some problem you can just pick a set of files like that, to refine the slots;

https://www.thomann.de/it/maxparts_fs_d5_file_set_140mm.htm
 

robgil

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
105
Reaction score
66
Great, thanks, do I also need to change the posts? I have noticed mine sit a little loose in the inserts in the body when the strings are off. Ive put the strings on and while it doesnt sound muted or choked (unplugged) it sounds like it could be more resonant. At least compared to my Baja Tele, perhaps they just dont sound as resonant as a Tele or it could be a set up thing, Ill have another play around with the set up.

DSCF7375.JPG DSCF7414.JPG
 

PierM

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2016
Messages
6,284
Reaction score
12,506
Great, thanks, do I also need to change the posts? I have noticed mine sit a little loose in the inserts in the body when the strings are off. Ive put the strings on and while it doesnt sound muted or choked (unplugged) it sounds like it could be more resonant. At least compared to my Baja Tele, perhaps they just dont sound as resonant as a Tele or it could be a set up thing, Ill have another play around with the set up.

View attachment 332471 View attachment 332472

No, you can't use your posts, you need convertors from 8mm to 4mm;

https://www.faberguitar.com/ESWKIT-ABR-Adapter-4mm-8mm

Another option, which is probably better but needs more work, is to remove the entire bridge, posts and studs, and use the E-Sert, which allow you to use the ABRM straight on the E-Sert studs, without any extra convertor in the middle....similar to what you have with a real ABR1 bridge in a Gibson.

https://www.faberguitar.com/E-sert

The ABR-M will mount on both, with the difference that in the first case you'll keep your original studs, and use convertors from 8mm (stud side) to 4mm (ABRM side). The second case needs your studs to be removed, and swapped with the E-Sert studs, which are ready to hold the ABRM.
 

robgil

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
105
Reaction score
66
This is looking like it might get expensive. I take it that set screw is to remove the old insert? But this does look like a better option, it keeps the stud firmly in the guitars body rather than having it move up and down to set the action like the originals. And considering my inserts may be worn as the stud wobbles around in them. Is there a tonal difference when making this change?
 

PierM

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2016
Messages
6,284
Reaction score
12,506
Is there a tonal difference when making this change?

Usually you get a better acoustic sound. Sometimes you get an overall brightening, sometimes you get a better note attack (snappier), sometimes you get no audible difference but a better feeling (compliance). Really depends how the new bridge system will fit in the package, but I'm pretty sure it's gonna (at least) improve the feeling while playing.
 

robgil

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Messages
105
Reaction score
66
Thankyou Pier, you have been most helpful , If I gel with the guitar I will certainly put a Faber bridge on it, its new so Im going to play it for a while to make sure its for me before updating it.
 

PierM

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2016
Messages
6,284
Reaction score
12,506

No.

That is for USA guitars with 6-32 Sae posts (Gibson).

If you want to use that bridge you need the M8x1.25 to SAE 6-32 convertors, that Faber doesn’t offer.

Philadelphia Luthier Tools has those you need;

https://www.philadelphialuthiertool...br-1-on-epiphone-other-import-guitars-nickel/
 

C_Becker

Dat Gibson smell
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
2,133
Reaction score
2,208
I recommend a Gotoh GE103, it costs 40 bucks over here and I have one on all my Epis.
 

Dolebludger

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2009
Messages
16,644
Reaction score
16,512
I recommend the Gotoh bridge Stewmac sells here in the US for $30 or so to your door. It is a drop in for your guitar, and comes with starter slots. In my case, the starter slots were enough except on high and low E where I had to deepen them slightly with a diamond file to prevent slippage. Actually, you want the saddle slots as small as will hold the strings. Deep saddle slots such tone.
 

GraphX12

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Messages
73
Reaction score
54
I put a Tone Pros metric bridge on my Epi SG and it was a direct drop-in using my existing posts (bridge came w/posts but didn't need them). Didn't modify the starter slots and have never had a string pop out. More saddle adjustment travel for intonation and much more solid and stable than stock. Best upgrade I've done to a guitar - got rid of that NASTY rattling wire!
 

Latest Threads



Top