Routing pickup ears *achieving depth

Gothika777

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When routing pickup ears, how do you achieve depth when using a template.

I have a 3/8" router bit with a 1/4" shank (used with a guide bush). Say roughly 3 to 3.5cm of that router piece can be plunged underneath the base. The template is 12.5mm thick which leaves me with an effective routing depth of 2cm.

The ears according to the plans are over 3cm deep, so how are you guys achieving depth on the route? The bit could be swapped afterwards for a 3/8" bearing guided bit, but since the ears would lie on the edge of the carve top this wouldn't be ideal
 

emoney

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Once you route your 2 cm (however much that is), you can remove the template and the
bearing will ride along that 2 cm cut. Same for the neck mortise if you don't have a long enough
bit.
 

Blackdog

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When routing pickup ears, how do you achieve depth when using a template.

I have a 3/8" router bit with a 1/4" shank (used with a guide bush). Say roughly 3 to 3.5cm of that router piece can be plunged underneath the base. The template is 12.5mm thick which leaves me with an effective routing depth of 2cm.

The ears according to the plans are over 3cm deep, so how are you guys achieving depth on the route? The bit could be swapped afterwards for a 3/8" bearing guided bit, but since the ears would lie on the edge of the carve top this wouldn't be ideal

Removing the template only works if you're routing flat. If you're routing at an angle yo need the template to keep the angle.

I leave the template on all the time. Then start routing with normal length bits following the template. Then to reach the depth I switch to long bits following the already routed cavity.

For long bits I use these, and these.

Not exactly cheap, but they solve the problem.
 

ARandall

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You generally need a range of bits. Some short, some long.
There is also how the bit mounts into the router, and the amount of shank length. You can get more depth simply by having less of the shank in the collet (you still need to be safe).

But this is the deepest rout requirement. Its like the secondary electrics rout....you just need a deep bit.
 

Ripthorn

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You can get normal, 1/4" shank 3/8" bits with a long cutting edge and add a bearing and collar to make them pattern trim bits. Pretty cheap and easy to do. I've done this for various bit profiles before. Opens up a whole range of options.
 

nuance97

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The bit in the middle of the photo below is my pickup leg bit. You'll have to get the longest one you can find. I found this one made by Amana. I just bought the straight bit and extra bearings to make my own pattern bit.
Photo04121518.jpg
 

cmjohnson

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I dare to be different. I use a milling machine and no templates for routs. but, yeah, if you use templates, you want to get a small assortment of pattern bits, both top and bottom bearing styles. Long AND short ones.
 

j.six

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[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4urfh0djvlE[/ame]

;)
 

Gothika777

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Removing the template only works if you're routing flat. If you're routing at an angle yo need the template to keep the angle.

I leave the template on all the time. Then start routing with normal length bits following the template. Then to reach the depth I switch to long bits following the already routed cavity.

For long bits I use these, and these.

Not exactly cheap, but they solve the problem.

I raise you

1 pc 1/4" SH 2-1/2" Extra Long Straight Router Bit sct-888 | eBay

or

Wealden Tool Company Limited Deep Pocket

However gets sketchy when the bits get long i guess
 

Blackdog

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Well, you have to rig a bearing on the first one, and such a long cutting edge might be inconvenient.

On hardwood, you can't really route any deeper than the bit diameter per pass, it's just not safe.
That's why I prefer a short cutting edge, with the bearing following the already routed cavity and just a long shaft to reach the depth required.

But it can be made to work I suppose.
 

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