Router Q's: Bushings, Bearings & End Mills

[Fret Hopper]

I just got my new Milwaukee model 5616 router, 2.25 HP EVS, with fixed and plunge bases. It has 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets. And, I have been researching bushings, bearings and end mills.

1. I have a flamed maple top that I got dirt cheap ($10) due to it having a slight twist across the opposite corners. It is 7/8ths inch thick. I want to "mill" the piece flat using my router, as I don't have a thickness sander, nor a planer. I have read that an end mill is better suited to this task than a comparable router bit. And that a 3-4 flute is better for this than a 2 flute. I have checked McMaster-Carr, Enco, HD and a few other sites for end mills. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good end mill that won't break the bank? 1/4 in or 1/2 in? And can a a 3/8ths in mill shank be used in the 1/2 inch collet? Carbide worth the money? Or other recommendations?

2a. I want to create my own templates for bodies, mortise/tenons, pickup and control cavities, jigs, etc. I already have 1/4 in and 3/4 in MDF (2 of each that are 2'X4'). Is it better to use bearings or bushings for cutting templates, and what would be the proper size/type of bit to use? I found where Milwaukee sells a 7 pc template guide/bushing set for around $32. Is this a good long term option?

2b. Or, just get both types, bearings and bushings/template guides?

Any recommendations on 2a and 2b?

I appreciate any insight members can provide.

(and if emoney chimes in and says my router is a lost cause, and I should just send it to him for disposal, that is not an option)

From the ozone...

Mark

 

[tnt423]

As for as flattening that board Whiteside makes a bowl bit that leaves a very nice finish for around $35.
For 2 I prefer bearing bits with templates as opposed to bushings. They seem to be easier on the templates and it's easier to make the templates when you don't have to remember the offset necessary with bushings.
If you choose bearing bits get good quality, they last longer and really leave a better cut. Also get both top and bottom bearing bits. I use a 2.5" long 3/4" diameter bit in a router table with bearings on top and bottom for most of my outside template work,this lets me flip the workpiece and always make sure I'm routing "downhill" on the grain to prevent tearout. For cavities I use a 1/2" long 3/8" wide top bearing bit and then remove the template and guide on the previous cut to go deeper.
To make copies of my masters I use a bottom bearing bit 1" long and 1/2" diameter. None of these dimensions include the shank.
Also cut as close to the lines as you can the more you remove with the bit the shorter the bits useful life and the greater the chance for an Aw Crap moment.
Hope this helps.

 

[Open_Book]

as I don't have a thickness sander, nor a planer.

Tbh - I'd take it to a local cabinet shop and have it sanded.

2a. I want to create my own templates

Is it better to use bearings or bushings for cutting templates

Its a personal choice imho. These two pieces by the same author should give you some idea of the differences between using both.

Link One - PDF

Link Two

 

[Marty M.]

You can build a router planing jig...( google search for a number of different styles). Basically it is a pair of rails that are higher than your wood to be planed. An example:

https://www.google.com/search?q=rou...epot%2F244234-diy-tools-jigs-4.html;4138;2400

The router is mounted on a crosspiece that runs on the rails. You'll have to cut some wedges to prop up the wood, and attach some clamping mechanism to hold the wood in place. Once done, you should be able to skim across the top and get a flat plane. Once that side is done, flipping it over should allow you to thickness it with parallel surfaces.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/flattening-workbenches-and-wide-boards-with-a-router/

I'd spend the money on a nice whiteside straight bit to do the milling. As far as template bits go, I am a cheerleader for the stewmac pattern bit and a 1" flush trim bit ( whiteside, freud, or cmt). I personally wouldn't use a milling cutter in a router as the speeds are much higher in a router. Taking smaller steps with your bit won't guarantee you won't get tearout, but it will certainly help minimize it.

 

[Skyjerk]

Your router is a lost cause. You should send it to me for disposal.

 

[Fret Hopper]

TNT and marty,
Great advice. I will look at the whiteside bits after this posting. And building the planing jig is on my list - actually one of the first things I want to make. I think Pshupe had a recent thread on a box plan.

Openbook...your avatar...is...deeply...disturbing. It is an image that raises concerns about your psychological well being and fashion sense.


Sky. Let me guess...you are emoney's long lost twin brother from a different mother?!?

I appreciate the input guys. Going to go build a shopping list and find some planing jig plans.

From the ozone...

Mark

 

[tnt423]

The only problem with this, is where to store all these. I have shelves just for masters and then tuck the work templates under the bench, but it takes up a lot of space. Also check out Freddy G's video on edge treating the MDF templates, I use shellac that's old, but super glue will make them last a lot longer.

 

[Open_Book]

Openbook...your avatar...is...deeply...disturbing. It is an image that raises concerns about your psychological well being and fashion sense.

Pink doesn't suit me? - I knew I should have worn the chiffon and Jimmy Choo's...

 

[emoney]

It's probably overkill, but a bearing kit comes in very handy for your new router;

Buy WoodRiver Router Bit Bearing Kit at Woodcraft.com

Assuming, of course, that you really don't plan to box it up and ship it to me.