router bit bearing question

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When routing neck pockets, pickup cavities and control cavities..

I was wondering how you go about buying the correct length of router bit, I suppose because the bearing follows a template, once the depth increases.. the bearing is then lower than the template and follows the cavity wall just made by the last pass of a router?

Have no experience with routers so I'm just assuming that's how you go about using templates?

Thanks
 

pshupe

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Cheerup347 - You can buy bits with top and bottom bearings but I find these won't work for a lot of the template work. I use something like this, router template guides - Lee Valley Tools - Woodworking Newsletter Vol. 1, Issue 4, with a very long straight cutter bit, then just use the plunge setting to get the desired depth. You may have to modify your templates to be a little larger to make up for the thickness of the collar.

Cheers Peter.
 

H.E.L.Shane

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You may have to modify your templates to be a little larger to make up for the thickness of the collar.

Cheers Peter.

AS i mentioned in another post.. I have been "retemplating" for a while now when i get time..

the stewmac 1/4" thick templates do not give a good enough comfort level on some router bits (when the bearing rides off the cutter more than about 1/16th of an inch..) to get a clean cuton the pocket AND not be worried about the bering slipping over the top of the template and killoing both the template and your workpiece...

I don't buy the "sets" of bearings and bits anymore.. I bought collars and bearings and therefore can put a bearing on top of almost any bit... but the desing of some bits doesnt allow the bearing to get right on the bit and leaves too much of a gap. (mostly wth cheaper bits.. that being said.. they aint CHEAP. just not super expensive... lol)
 
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Okay thanks,

Surely if I were to use a short cutting length with a bearing to match my template for instance. One you plunge far enough that the bearing is below the template and into the cavity. Then the wall.of the cavity becomes the template that the bearing rides against?
 

emoney

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That's exactly right. In essence, you only need to use your template to get the route
started, if you so choose, because the bearing will ride along the wall as you go deeper.
 

H.E.L.Shane

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yep...

With my new thicker templates, i dont need a plunge router base for pickup cavities anymore..

I mount the template and then bore the guts out of the cavity to about 3/4 of an inch deep with a forstner bit on the drill press

then I route with the bearing bit to the template using a 1/2" X 3/4" long bit, and. obviously a 1/2" bearing.. then I pull the template and route once more..

The pass with the template on takes the pocket about halfway down.. the second pass, using the area where I just router as a guide, the bit cuts to final depth at the same time.. even though you only have a 3/4 inch long cutter, becasue the bearing is below the surface.. the final depth is about 1" deep! Because i already hogged out most of the material with the forstner bit.. i'm only cutting 1/4" or so at the end of the bit and thats good (you dont want to cut 3/4" deep at a time.. bad things will happen!!)
 

Ole'Lefty

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That is a valuable link. Except for my bits from Brian Holbren, I have fairly well outfitted there. Their CS has historically been great. At least in the recnt past their order-taking staff has training and will often have expertise that gets you out of a jam. For a real mess, then on to actual CS.
 

pshupe

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H.E.L.Shane - how do you do your PUP cavities after taking the template off, if the PUP cavity is not 90 degrees to the top of the guitar?

Cheers Peter.
 

bruce bennett

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H.E.L.Shane - how do you do your PUP cavities after taking the template off, if the PUP cavity is not 90 degrees to the top of the guitar?

Cheers Peter.

if your pickup cavity is not a 90 degree and it was routed with a template that was sitting on your top, then your top must not be a 90 degree either, so no problems, just rout with your router base sitting on your top.

but, if you've created a template with a tilted base. then you'll need a another tilted base OR a longer bit.

I have about 9 different routers all with different bits already set up so i can grab any router with any particular bit,

like for pickups, I have a stew mac bit that is .5 X.5 diameter and cutting depth with top bearings. this will make my starting routs. down to about .750 deep.
then I have another router with a .5 diameter and a 1" cutting length bit and top bearings.. together with my plunge router base I can easily reach a 1.375 depth with a 1" long bit with a .750 thick template.
 

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