Question about routing the control cavity

guitarbuilder_1982

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Hey guys,

Thanks for a great forum. There's a lot of great knowledge in here that has really help me so far in the first stages of my LP build. It's my first guitar build ever, so it's all pretty confusing - and in retrospect I should probably have started out with an easier guitar. But I'm working my way through the problems as they arise and until now it seems to go okay.

There's just one thing that I can't find an answer to:

Is it correctly understood that I route out the control cavity all the way through the mahogany body (and that it's a matter of taste if I want to do it before or after the top is glued on) and that the walls of the cavity is perpendicular to the bottom of the guitar? Then, after the top is glued on, I make a jig and tilt it eight degress and route a tilted roof in the inside of the maple top so that it more or less matches the outside carve of the top?

Also, is it correct that I'm not supposed to do the same in the cavity for the pickup switch? Here the roof of the cavity should just be perpendicular to the walls?

I hope some of you can help me with a go or no go to the above. Thank you very much!
 

pavel

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You route after gluing on the top and leave about ⅛ in of mahogany. It's the secondary, angled route that goes all the way through to the maple top (for most of the route).
Likewise the switch cavity first route leaves some mahogany, you then use a spotfacer to cut through to the maple.
 

ARandall

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Have you gone through the process of looking at any build threads?
There are clear steps showing either in pic form or indeed on video of exactly how to accomplish all the rout steps and what order to do them in.
 

cmjohnson

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Of course be aware that you don't HAVE to do it that way. You make it the way you want to. I don't mind if the shafts of the pots are not angled to match the top contour. They can be perpendicular to the back. Nothing at all wrong with doing it that way and it's how PRS does it. But PRS isn't making '59 Standard replicas.
 

nuance97

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You route after gluing on the top and leave about ⅛ in of mahogany. It's the secondary, angled route that goes all the way through to the maple top (for most of the route).
Likewise the switch cavity first route leaves some mahogany, you then use a spotfacer to cut through to the maple.
1/8” is more than I would leave...I’d shoot for .025” or less-paper thin basically.

The 3-way cavity you can leave a little more mahogany. 1/8” would be totally appropriate
 

cmjohnson

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I say to leave the switch mounting surface as thick as you can and still fully secure the switch nut properly. .025" is about the thickness of a quarter. Way too thin in my opinion. The switches I've used allow for a thicker surface than that, for sure.
 

nuance97

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I say to leave the switch mounting surface as thick as you can and still fully secure the switch nut properly. .025" is about the thickness of a quarter. Way too thin in my opinion. The switches I've used allow for a thicker surface than that, for sure.
Dude, I’m talking about the mahogany thickness only...the maple top is plenty thick to accept the pots with no mahogany left in the cavity at all. Most photos I see of vintage cavities have no mahogany left anyway. I like the look of it aesthetically as do a lot of builders, but it’s not necessary, and there were some vintage LPs that had it
 

cmjohnson

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I don't consider the PRS singlecut design to be very similar to a Les Paul. It's a distinctly different body shape, as much different from the LP shape as is the Telecaster shape, which is also a single cutaway design. At least that's how I see it.


nuance97, I though you were referring to the final thickness of the top for the controls, and for the 3 way toggle switch in particular. I do know that SOME 3 way switches don't allow for a very thick piece to mount them to.
 

nuance97

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I don't consider the PRS singlecut design to be very similar to a Les Paul. It's a distinctly different body shape, as much different from the LP shape as is the Telecaster shape, which is also a single cutaway design. At least that's how I see it.


nuance97, I though you were referring to the final thickness of the top for the controls, and for the 3 way toggle switch in particular. I do know that SOME 3 way switches don't allow for a very thick piece to mount them to.
I was talking mahogany thicknesses in each respective cavity. If you follow my recipe above and leave a whisper of mahogany in the control cavity, and 1/8-3/16” in the toggle cavity you’ll end up with through-hole thicknesses of something close to .20”+/- & .30”+/- respectively (depending on carve variable).
 

pshupe

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I don't consider the PRS singlecut design to be very similar to a Les Paul. It's a distinctly different body shape, as much different from the LP shape as is the Telecaster shape, which is also a single cutaway design. At least that's how I see it.
As different as a Tele, really? Here is a 59 LP laid over top of a PRS.

Body shape, Mahogany body, carved maple top, set neck, angled head stock, two humbuckers, "two piece bridge", two volume and two tone, 3 way switch vintage tuners.... Need I go on oh yeah scale length within a 1/64" of an inch. This guitar is even called the "McCarty" for god's sake. :facepalm::facepalm:

Capture.JPG


Cheers Peter.
 

cmjohnson

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I had an SC245 for a couple of years. I can see the difference between the SC and the LP body shapes from a mile away. To me they're very dissimilar.
 


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