Purchasing first build Kit tonight. What finishing supplies do I get?

[britishbluesfan]

Hey guys I'm ordering my byoguitar 59 les paul kit tonight, and I was wondering what finishing supplies should I purchase along with it? I'm looking to achieve a finish exactly like the MLP Bartlett replica build. What aniline dyes and grain filler should I purchase, and what is the dye recipe for the burst achieved in those photos? Do you hand rub the dye into the top or do you spray it?

 

[gator payne]

There is no one answer for any part of your questions. If you want to follow the process used in the Bartlett build post the info is there for the most part. It will require you do do some home work. Most of use don't use an absolute resipe for the mixing the tint but rather use scrap to test and adjust to get whrere we want to be. we could give ratios to you but then when you do it you may be disapointed in the tints.

Do a read through of this post and then go do your home work. We are glad to help but you have to research the processes your going to use and practice prior to actually performing the the process if you are to have good chance of sucsess.

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/lut...gle-most-important-finishing-tip-newbies.html

Also thie post should help as well
http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luthiers-corner/123003-hand-rubbed-stained-wood-burst.html


Sorry if the teacher in me is showing but you will do a better job if you do the research rather than being told what to do. I’m glad to help but it is important that you get a good comprehension of what you’re going to do before anything I tell your will make any sense

 

[gator payne]

Damn I forgot to mention that you have several choices of finish media depending on the equipment you have for application and the environment you have t finish in.

If you have spray equipment then nitrocellulose lacquer is probably the friendliest finish media to work with in terms of ease in spraying. But it is very flammable and toxic.

Polyurethane is a quicker curing option but can be tricky to do for the first timer

Waterborne acrylic lacquer is non toxic and non flammable, ease to spray, moderately fast curing but produces a tad softer film.

If you don’t have spray equipment then there is rattle can nitrocellulose lacquer, acrylic lacquer and polyurethane.

These are just a few of the choices you have So your really have to chose based on your experience, the environment you have to work in and the effort your are willing to expend.

Here is a good list of what you will need for leveling and rubbing out the finish
400P-1200p wet dry paper
Firm rubber sanding block 3” x 3” is good size
Moderately flexible rubber sanding block 3” x 3” is good size
Razor blades
Mineral spirits or naphtha for clean up between leveling sessions
Tack cloth

Depending on how you intend to buff and what you have to buff with
Medium grit compound
Fine grit compound
Extra fin grit compound
There are lots of choices of brand here and types depending on your buffing equipment

 

[w666]

I have some advice from the school of "hard Knocks"......be sure to assemble your kit, place the bridge and string it up BEFORE you start any finishing (just in case you discover that you have some more woodworking to do )

Hey guys I'm ordering my byoguitar 59 les paul kit tonight, and I was wondering what finishing supplies should I purchase along with it? I'm looking to achieve a finish exactly like the MLP Bartlett replica build. What aniline dyes and grain filler should I purchase, and what is the dye recipe for the burst achieved in those photos? Do you hand rub the dye into the top or do you spray it?

 

[njk]

You also need to remember that every bit of wood will take stain differently, will grain fill differently and and hold and reflect colour differently, and no 2 bursts are the same after all. If you can get anything close to the Bartlet burst you'll be a very happy man.

But all the info you need is in this forum, and most of what you need has been pointed out by Gator, take your time, good luck and keep asking questions when you need to. AND PICS WHEN YOURE DONE

 

[solteroblues]

Damn I forgot to mention that you have several choices of finish media depending on the equipment you have for application and the environment you have t finish in.

If you have spray equipment then nitrocellulose lacquer is probably the friendliest finish media to work with in terms of ease in spraying. But it is very flammable and toxic.

Polyurethane is a quicker curing option but can be tricky to do for the first timer

Waterborne acrylic lacquer is non toxic and non flammable, ease to spray, moderately fast curing but produces a tad softer film.

If you don’t have spray equipment then there is rattle can nitrocellulose lacquer, acrylic lacquer and polyurethane.

These are just a few of the choices you have So your really have to chose based on your experience, the environment you have to work in and the effort your are willing to expend.

Here is a good list of what you will need for leveling and rubbing out the finish
400P-1200p wet dry paper
Firm rubber sanding block 3” x 3” is good size
Moderately flexible rubber sanding block 3” x 3” is good size
Razor blades
Mineral spirits or naphtha for clean up between leveling sessions
Tack cloth

Depending on how you intend to buff and what you have to buff with
Medium grit compound
Fine grit compound
Extra fin grit compound
There are lots of choices of brand here and types depending on your buffing equipment

So do you recommend using an electric buffing machine, or is by hand the best?

 

[gator payne]

So do you recommend using an electric buffing machine, or is by hand the best?

I suggest 14" canton cotton wheels on a buffer with 36" long shaft or longer sheaved for 600, 800, and 1100 rpm via a 2" motor sheave. on a 3/4" 1700rpm electric motor. I use two wheels stacked to the side. Always use different wheels for each grade of compound (Menzerna medium, fine and extra fine). So that means if you do two wheels on each end of the shaft and you use 3 grades of compound you need 6 14" wheels. never use different componds on the same wheels! That said that is about an $400-$600 setup if purchased but can be built your own for about $100 plus the cost of the wheels and compound and wheel rake. you will need a frame, two bearing blocks, three sheaves a motor belt and a shop built tension adjustmet system.

Key tip here never adjust the belt so tight that you cant stop the wheel by force of the work. You want the belts to slip if too much force is put on the wheels. This tip will save you a month and a half of work min. sooner or later.

Now a foam pad and liquid polishing componds is typically the route most new builders choose because you can us and electric drill or drill press