Problem with 50's ES-335 wiring

SpeedyGonzo

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Hi there!

I have undertaken to rewire my Dearmond Starfire with a 50's wiring diagram with a set of Bourns 500k pots, 0.022uf orange drop caps and gibson 490r and 490t humbuckers.

I've been following all the steps from this page: https://www.sixstringsupplies.co.uk/how-to-wire-an-es-335

I am not a soldering or electronic expert but I did my best to do a not too dirty job but after I was done and I tried to test the signal: nothing...

I used my multimeter to test the continuity and everything seems fine.
The odd thing is when I want to test my volume neck pot with my multimeter it does not reads any value when the pickup is soldered and grounded but it does read a number around 450k when the pickup is not wired.
Also my multimeter seems to have limited options and I can't figure how I can test my capacitors.
If my capacitors are defective can it cut the signal?

Here some photos of my work, any idea or solutions would be very helpful.
Also I posted a photo of my multimeter if someone could help me indicate which setup I should use to test my capacitors.
Thanks!






 

ARandall

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Caps only ever remove part of the signal. At the pot value of 10 they will do very little. If the cap is faulty and the pot is on 10, the fail mode is either no tone circuit (more signal out of the jack), or the cap shorts and becomes a very small resistor (practically no difference to a working tone circuit).
Continuity testing of the signal path (pickup - vol pot - switch - jack) is the key.
Typically unintended grounding is one of the chief problems.....like what could happen because you've not trimmed the braid back on the switch wire from the far side, and it's lying essentially right on top of the switch, where extensions of all the hot connections are exposed.
 

SpeedyGonzo

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Caps only ever remove part of the signal. At the pot value of 10 they will do very little. If the cap is faulty and the pot is on 10, the fail mode is either no tone circuit (more signal out of the jack), or the cap shorts and becomes a very small resistor (practically no difference to a working tone circuit).
Continuity testing of the signal path (pickup - vol pot - switch - jack) is the key.
Typically unintended grounding is one of the chief problems.....like what could happen because you've not trimmed the braid back on the switch wire from the far side, and it's lying essentially right on top of the switch, where extensions of all the hot connections are exposed.
Thanks for the tip ARandall.
I just trimmed the braid where it was exposed to the top of the switch but still I have the same problem.

I'm gonna show you below my biggest doubt:

When I test with my multimeter the neck volume pot with the PU unsoldered it reads the right resistance around 450k (which is fine):


Then if I solder the pickup on the pot with it's ground on the cover it only reads a number near to 0:


And finally when I do test the continuity between the neck position of the switch to the neck volume pot it reads 1, meaning there is an open circuit.


Here a better closeup of the pot itself:


Any insight of what could cause this open circuit? Can my switch be defective? Should I change the cloth wire that connect the neck position switch to the pot for a braided wire and ground it with the other 2?
 

Roxy13

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It looks to me like the bare hot lead of your pickup wire is touching the back/side of the pot. Unsolder that and trim the end so the black insulation goes out further toward the lug.

There may also be a second problem with the switch wiring.
 

Roxy13

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Also, do you get a reading on the pickup when it's unsoldered? Verify it's circuit is intact as well.
 

SpeedyGonzo

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Also, do you get a reading on the pickup when it's unsoldered? Verify it's circuit is intact as well.
Yes I get a proper reading of the pickup with my multi on the hot and ground together it reads a 7.5k on the neck and around 8.2k on the bridge.

I unsoldered everything from my switch and tested it with the multi and it seems to work just fine. So it is not the switch.

Now I realize that I really can't read the value of my volume pots when the PU ground is soldered to the pot.
If I unsolder the ground I can read the value at around 450k even with the hot soldered (only when the ground is soldered it causes a misread...). Any idea?
 

MATTM

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From the pics, it looks like you've got a lot of potential ground out's with all the braided wire strands. I'd definitely clean those up.

You've also got what appears to be several cold solder joints. It would be a good idea to redo the solder joints properly.

Here's a pic of the harnesses I used to make when I had MSSC Guitar. Hopefully it helps :)

PW-ES-335-2.jpg
 

SpeedyGonzo

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From the pics, it looks like you've got a lot of potential ground out's with all the braided wire strands. I'd definitely clean those up.

You've also got what appears to be several cold solder joints. It would be a good idea to redo the solder joints properly.

Here's a pic of the harnesses I used to make when I had MSSC Guitar. Hopefully it helps :)

View attachment 463857
Thank you ror the advice MATTM, I unsoldered everything and I will start again from scratch (hoping to end with a better results this time).
I was wondering if maybe am I using the wrong type of solder?
 

Roxy13

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Solder that contains lead is much easier to work with. Get some rosin core 60/40 leaded solder.
 

SpeedyGonzo

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Is this possible that a part like the switch or the pot can be defective but I can still read a value with the multimeter? It seems the problem comes from wether the switch or the pot. I’m scarred the circuit of one of these two parts was exposed too long the hot tip of my solder for...
 


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