Polycarbonite vs. MDF Templates?

Br0ken68

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Hey guys,

I'm only going to be doing prolly 2-3 builds. I've been reading the pros and cons of templates of MDF, Acrylic and Polycarbonite templates. Thus far it looks like Polycarbonite stands up the best but costly. MDF is cheap, but dents, acryllic seems to melt due to router speed, and polycarbonite can be machined, drilled, sanded etc just like wood, however, is costly ($27 a BF for 1/2" at my local supplier :shock:). My question is I've read where I can shellac/sand lightly the edges of MDF to basically fill the pores and makes it more rigid. Since I am only doing a few builds, would you guys justify the price of polycarb, or just do the cheaper MDF and shellac method? Also, what thickness should I get for the template?? Thanks in advance
 

Ole'Lefty

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Actually cast acrylic polycarbonate is sturdy and stands up to pressure and friction. 24" x 48" x 3/8" is about 65 dollars shipped. Mdf is very adequate for just a few uses as is masonite. It does help to seal MDF with shellac or wipe on poly. 1/4" or 3/8" is fine for templates. If you use high quality bis with premium bearings then you will see less wear. I am a Whiteside person myself. Ole'Lefty
 

Br0ken68

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Thanks for that, was kinda hoping the MDF would be ok since I'm only doing a few builds. Granted if I was doing production, I guess it would be worth it rather than re-making templates every few builds cause of template failure. I'm ordering my top from RJCguitar, while he has em. Still getting the various tools I need also. I just bought a 9" craftsman bandsaw at a yardsale for 50 bucks. Took the motor apart, cleaned everything up, put a fresh blade on and reoiled it since it looked like it had been sitting a while. Next on the list is a router, and spindle sander, finger plane, etc etc.
 

bfcg

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You might want to consider Baltic Birch Plywood instead of MDF. A 1/2" x 24" x 30" piece may be enough.

I use void free baltic birch that is made for die boards( many more layers than the DIY'er stuff) for all of my masters and most of my working templates.
I do seal the birch to keep it stable.
Keep your bits pitch free, sharp enough to cut your fingers just by handling them and polish your bearings frequently.

I made all of my amp cabs with it too, it really dovetails nicely.
 

Br0ken68

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I may have some more baltic birch lyin around. I was going to use it for my router jig, but might have enough for both. I've been working on a M^rshall 18watt clone kit. I have all the pieces cut for the cab, just need to put the finger joints in it and do the tolex etc. It kinda got put on the back burner with various other "to do" projects around the house.
 

Br0ken68

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I bought an unassembled turret board and faceplates from CeriaTone.Com - DIY Guitar Tube Amp, nice guys, but took a few different shipments to get everything I had ordered, other than that I was happy. They are based in the philppines, so I think the main problem was the language barrier. I contructed the chasis myself using my metal brake. The transformers for it came frome Welcome to Trinity Amps They are the closest to the orignal from what I've read (which I believe were Radiospares, if I remember right). I read about ceriatone first before trinity, but if I had to do all over again, I would get everything from Trinity. Steve is a really nice guy, and very helpful when it comes to questions.
 

landsharkey

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The Weber is comparable (to CeriaTone package 2) for $465 for their 18 Watt 6M18 and includes tubes.
Steve is a really nice guy, and very helpful when it comes to questions.
This is a plus especially on the higher gain kits where you can have alot of problems getting them to work correctly.
 

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