Paintint Question

[Leo2112]

Greetings all:

I have a question, if anyone can help. I'm doina guitar project from a kit and am trying a silver burst finish. My problem is that the silver paint is really problematic with between coats sanding. I just can't seem to smooth anything out. Any suggestions, or should I just leave it and wait until I finish the clear coat?

Thanks.

-Leo

 

[Freddy G]

Never sand a metallic or pearl coat directly. Build up and sand your base coats to the point of perfection so that when you spray the metallic you are not trying to get build or trying to fill and level problem spots. Just a few light, misty coats of metallic then seal with clear coats. Keep the first few clear coats on the light side until it's really locked in, then you can get heavier. Sand with 600 to level, spray one more coat of clear and depending on how smooth (orange peel) the final coat is, sand with appropriate grit and buff.

 

[H.E.L.Shane]

as usual.. Freddy gives good advice.. never sand metallics...

I will go a step further by saying that when i paint metallics, I do not leave the paint sit in the gun between coats... i have found that the metallic particles tend to settle into the throat of the gun and your next coat will not have the same consistenecey as the first coat.. the gun can even clog....this is baaaaaad for metallics. (your finish can end up looking like a freshly mown football field..... ie STRIPES)

Since i started using the DeKupps system.. its MUCH easier.. take the cup off, put a plug in it.. squirt a bit of reducer into the throat of the gun and give it a quick wash, then spray the reducer out before the next coat and reattach the cup (after agitating the paint of course)... (since i started using the DeKupps system.. I don't even let clear nitro sit in the gun between coats and i did that for YEARS with no problems)

(if you are using cans.. then shake shake shake before and during coats)

Also.. hold the gun or the can perfectly perpendicular to your surface...(like you are supposed to).. tilting the gun to the left or the right will also give variations in the metallic as the particles will lay down at different angles (again.. the football field image)

 

[gator payne]

Also.. hold the gun or the can perfectly perpendicular to your surface...(like you are supposed to).. tilting the gun to the left or the right will also give variations in the metallic as the particles will lay down at different angles (again.. the football field image)

I will add that if using cans after each coat hold the can upside down and spray till nothing but gas comes out. this will clear your nozzel. Very important if spraying arisol caned metalics.

 

[Leo2112]

Excellent advice, guys--I appreciate it. I am, in fact using a can. I wanted to get a spray gun but just couldn't swing the expense this time around. But since this is my first attepmt at this, I wasn't expecting perfection, but I'd like it to turn out as well as possible.

I did sand down the primer coats to as smooth as a baby's rear. But the silver is gong on and drying orange pealed in some parts and fairly smooth in others. So essentially let it be and go for the smoothness with the clear coats?

I appreciate the input. Thanks.

-Leo

 

[Freddy G]

If you have orange peel in the silver coats you are spraying it on too heavy. Err on the side of too light and dry. Even if the coats look slightly rough and dry (but not orange peeled) thats fine because clears will lock it in. The slight roughness will actually help the metallic effect because it means the particles are standing up and oriented randomly, as opposed to all flopping in one direction if you spray too heavily. That's also the reason you start with very light clear coats after the metallic, because if you spray a heavy clear then you risk having the particles fall down or "flop" due to the way lacquer melts into the previous coat(s).