Paint question

[admchn]

Hi everyone

I'm in the process of building my first guitar, and I've decided on an LP shape, as I think it looks gorgeous. I'd like to paint it in black, with a white outline, however, I'm unsure what primer/paint/finish to use, and how to actually get the White outline. Can anyone help?

 

[H.E.L.Shane]

whelp..... If you are a complete newbie to painting... then i suggest you use nitro lacquer.. if you can buy it where you live!!!

Primer... you don't need no stinking primer... but it does come in handy!!

anyway... you'll need to grain fill your mahogany first..

Then. if using nitro.. blow a couple coats of 50/50 over it (50% thinner) to seal it..

Then spray white around your edges.

then, use stripiing tape and tape off your outline and spray your black, remove the tape and whala.. there's your "faux Binding"

Spray about 6 to 9 coats of clear!

 

[admchn]

I'm using maple, does that mean I don't have to grain fill?

Assuming I do, does that mean

Grain fill -> prime -> black paint -> 3 or 4 50/50 layers -> White paint -> clear coats?

How often should I be sanding, and with what grit?

Also, what should be using to finish up to a shine?

And should I be thinning my paint?

Thanks

 

[Russtynutts]

here's a tip. go to the Stewart MacDonald web page and look in the free information section. there is a wealth of knowledge for aspiring luthiers.

 

[alk-3]

If it's maple it needs no filler.
You need to set up a base to lay the colour on. This is usually just a few coats of clear, sanding between coats. Then paint the white around the edges, then mask the area you want to stay white, then finally shoot the black and remove the masking.
After you're done with all your colours you can lay down the clear coats.
Once it sets up for a month or so you can sand and buff.
That's the basics. There are a lot of details to know to get it looking good, but it could fill a book if I were to type it all out. It's probably best to test out your finish on scrap and reasearch any issues you come across.
Also, black is a particularly dificult colour to get looking good, and the mark of a good paint job is no distortion in the reflections once it's all done.
I aim for what's called a 30" finish. Meaning if you stand a ruler on end on it you should be able to see the 30" mark clearly in the reflection, and the reflection of the ruler should be straight, not wavy.
Don't be tempted to sand and buff too early or your 30" finish will sink down and become a 6" finish (in other words, if you only wait a few days before sand and buff your finish will like crap a few weeks later)

 

[admchn]

Wow, I wasn't expecting to have to leave it for a whole month. Thanks for everybody's input. It's much appreciated.

 

[alk-3]

You can string it up and play it while it cures, then tear it down after and sand/buff when you do a string change.