PAINT, OR NOT TO PAINT

brentrocks

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The guitar is at our shop, which is 30 miles from my house. I went over and checked on it yesterday. The oil is drying slowly. I'm thinking at this point, i may let it set until Wednesday or Thursday before i do final sanding and apply the first coat of poly.
 

brentrocks

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Another change. I’m doing lacquer now. Lol. I talked to a guy that used to spray for heritage guitars in Kalamazoo. He convinced me that lacquer was the way to go.

Now that the grain fill was dry, I put coat of shellac on it this morning to seal the oil in. I’m going to wet sand with 800 next and then spray the first coat of lacquer.
 

moreles

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I agree with the lacquer preference. I don't know why people use oil (which is often really poly) since it's a secopnd-rate finish acoustically, and I've never seen the sense in doing something sub-optimal. On the other hand, most people execute a TruOil type finish so much better than the impatient, sloppy hack jobs done with lacquer that there's justification there for avoiding lacquer. You can execute a truly beautiful and thin nitro finish in lacquer, using rattle cans; in fact, you can achieve a result better than most commercially sprayed and mechanically buffed-out finishes. Unfortunately, most human beings are way too impatient, impulsive, and lazy to do the job right, whihc is sad but true. So: lacquer if you can handle it, oil if you can't, or just don't want to. (Though personally, I use French Polish whenever a job looks like it wants to be rubbed on.)
 

brentrocks

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brentrocks

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Well... I failed miserably. I'm sanding it down and taking it to a pro.
 

brentrocks

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I dropped it off to the pro finish guy today! When it’s done it will have a factory custom shop quality finish on it! That’s what I should’ve done in the first place. LOL
 

Brek

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I read somewhere from Gibson not to use furniture polish (duh) on guitars as it soaks in and kills the bodies resonance. I am thinking wood oil would do the same?
 

hbucker

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I read somewhere from Gibson not to use furniture polish (duh) on guitars as it soaks in and kills the bodies resonance. I am thinking wood oil would do the same?
Finishes like Tung Oil dry quickly and form a hard outside layer of protection from the elements. After one or two coats, you almost don't know it's there, but it doesn't continue to soak in over time any more than any other finish. If you apply 20 coats of Tung Oil... that would be excessive, but would build up the way traditional finishes do. Which is not the point of Tung Oil.

This is not a nitro vs. poly comment - but these nuances in finish on solid body guitars doesn't matter nearly as much as it does on acoustic guitars. Find your preference, go for it and tone will be in the hands of the player.
 

redking

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Tin of tung oil and 10 minutes, job done :D
Not a fan of Tung oil myself - too thick and gummy. Tru Oil (main ingredient boiled linseed oil) is the way to go - goes on in super thin coats and dries relatively quickly.
 

hbucker

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I will respectfully suggest that if Tung Oil has been thick and gummy for you, it hasn't been applied properly. I've used it extensively without ever having this result. Of course anything can be overdone.

True Oil is also a great suggestion though.
 

redking

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I will respectfully suggest that if Tung Oil has been thick and gummy for you, it hasn't been applied properly. I've used it extensively without ever having this result. Of course anything can be overdone.

True Oil is also a great suggestion though.
Fair enough - my one attempt could have been with a can that was past its time sitting on the store shelf too long.
 

brentrocks

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All is well, that ends well....

I picked up the husk from Dave last night. He did an AMAZING JOB!!! All nitro...and I didn't know this, but he used all the same materials in the finishing process that the Gibson Custom Shop uses (filler, lacquer, tint) Best $500 I ever spent on a guitar project!

So I got it home and started to prep the body for assembly. All the holes were gummed up with filler and lacquer. Reamed out and cleaned out all the tuner holes and body cavity holes and started to assemble.

These are the parts I used on this guitar....

Kluson repro vintage style tuners
Bennett Music Labs aluminum string trees
CTS 500k pots
Switchcraft toggle and jack
.022 400v NOS Russian PIO capacitor
Tonepros locking bridge and tailpiece
Mad Hatter PAFs
Custom pickguard made by Precision Guitar in Phoenix, AZ
The husk was built by Ron Luczak in Flint MI

The biggest problem I had was that the neck pickup lead was too short and I had to extend it. I know, the back plate looks like dog poop...I made that cover when i was attempting to finish it myself.

Everything lined up and fit great. The intonation is spot on, the neck sets up perfect, the fretwork is perfect! The action is great too! This guitar is so light and resonant.

The tone plugged in is out of this world!!! I'm so very happy with the finished product!!! Oh and it fits in the case I found too...that's a big plus!!!


IMG_3975 by brent HENDERSON, on Flickr

IMG_3976 by brent HENDERSON, on Flickr

IMG_3977 by brent HENDERSON, on Flickr

IMG_3978 by brent HENDERSON, on Flickr

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IMG_3982 by brent HENDERSON, on Flickr

IMG_3968 by brent HENDERSON, on Flickr

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IMG_3971 by brent HENDERSON, on Flickr

IMG_3985 by brent HENDERSON, on Flickr
 


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