Operation: Pelham V (Flying V log)

[rabidhamster]

Re/Reranch sample looks like my favorite. Great project!

 

[Fallen]

Learning by doing, the best way!


Next time, cut the tenon slightly too big and then pare to fit with a sharp chisel. Or you can template-cut it with a router, except for the cheeks. Oh, right- cut the mortise FIRST, then fit the tenon to it. Much easier to fine-adjust a stick than a hole.

Yep - cut outside the line. I did what you did with the first build. But mine was much more torturous as I tried using the router for the tenon. That one effectively died as I couldn't get the two wood surfaces to mate and didn't have the tools to make it right.

Now I use a dropsaw and a special jig to sit the neck blank on.

But if you want you could get 2 thin bits of mahogany and glue them to the neck blank so you can cut the mortice again.

Thanks for the tips! Now I will know for the next one!

The cheeks were the hardest part though. Getting those almost perfect required the amount of patients I just don't have. But I got it done and the neck test set. It fits perfect (first time perfect ) as it will get.

She is looking like a guitar now! I am blank on a name though. I have a model name, just not a personal name.

Also as you can see, I have added the holes for electronics.

 

[Fallen]

To add to the last post. Here are some shots of the Watco and Minwax swatches.

These two are competing for the opportunity to be on the guitar. These are the two of the four that dried the flattest.

Watco left Minwax right:

Here is a mediocre shot trying to show how flat they are. You will need to make this the full 4095x3040 resolution to see it.

Watco has the upper hand because it retained the Pelham color and didnt make it darker like the Minwax did.

I am assuming though that these dried flatter due to the fact of them both being a satin finish rather than gloss like the reranch and Ace brand.

I will probably, do Watco for the top and Minwax for the rest of the guitar.

 

[ARandall]

Great stuff. Your V inspired me to stop faffing about and get mine started.
As mine is a stock unbound V it is WAY quicker to make, and has progressed quite easily

 

[Fallen]

Great stuff. Your V inspired me to stop faffing about and get mine started.
As mine is a stock unbound V it is WAY quicker to make, and has progressed quite easily

Looks great man!


Yea, I Like the 50's unbound V's but not a lot. I hate pickguards, that is the reason for the maple cap and if you go maple cap go with binding. So I figured I would go a little custom with it like the gold top reissues from a few years ago.

This was originally going to be a gold top but I saw pelham and fell in love. Plus, I havent seen a Pelham top V yet. Someone's probably done it, but I havent seen it yet so it doesnt exist!!



Oh by the way, you need to check that picture. Looks like it got flipped the wrong way

 

[Fallen]

For comparison, here is the Ace (right) and reranch(left) clears and how much they orange peeled. It has to be because they are gloss unlike the others. I have decided to use Watco for the top and Minwax for the back. I will still use the reranch tinted clear for color instead of sun baking though.

 

[Bill Hicklin]

Um, I would be very leery of mixing brands; different formulations could cause reactions or registration lines. I'd be especially nervous spraying ReRanch (nitro) over Minwax or Watco (acrylic).

If you want to try it, then test on scrap with the the coats and thicknesses you plan to use, sealer right up through final topcoat.

The reason, I suspect, you are getting orange peel from the Reranch is because it's a higher-solids lacquer than usual for rattlecan (= faster build), and they also have a proprietary higher-volume spray nozzle. Simply put, you sprayed from too close.

 

[Fallen]

Um, I would be very leery of mixing brands; different formulations could cause reactions or registration lines. I'd be especially nervous spraying ReRanch (nitro) over Minwax or Watco (acrylic).

If you want to try it, then test on scrap with the the coats and thicknesses you plan to use, sealer right up through final topcoat.

The reason, I suspect, you are getting orange peel from the Reranch is because it's a higher-solids lacquer than usual for rattlecan (= faster build), and they also have a proprietary higher-volume spray nozzle. Simply put, you sprayed from too close.

Is minwax (black can) acrylic? Everything I have found says its full nitro.

Since it will be a while I'll see what the Minwax clear does over the reranch pelham.

I probably was spraying to close. I'll make another piece and spray farther back like 10 inches or so. I just did what's on the can, 6-8in.

Thanks for all the help Bill!

 

[Fallen]

Today I setup a radiusing jig. I got the idea from the Fletcher custom strat series on YouTube. It took me 5 hours to radius the damn thing. I envy those with a swing arm and a belt sander.

Board radiused. There are two spots on the board that were super low spots. But this was a test board.

One issue, the slots were too shallow on this LMII board and there is nothing left. After final cutting and flush trimming there will be some slot but they will all need to be re-slotted and slots radiused... Not sure why I paid extra for the slots at this point...

Here is the second board (the one that will go on this guitar) prepared.

Tomorrow, I will finish the second board and get it trimmed up. At this point, I will be on hold for a while while I gather tools to fret the boards. I will go with a preslotted nut for now and make one in the future. The next thing I will do is probably do the back round over on 1/4 and order the string through plate from PKG.


Are the Stewmac and LMII "Essential Fretting Kit's" good kits? ( I am sure they are just looking for feedback on them from you guys)

 

[Bill Hicklin]

Some other builders here would disagree, but I would strongly recommend not fretting until after the instrument is assembled, or at least until the board is glued to the neck.

 

[Fallen]

Some other builders here would disagree, but I would strongly recommend not fretting until after the instrument is assembled, or at least until the board is glued to the neck.

Not sure why they would?

Seems to make sense. That way your not having to work around frets when clamping the board.

Though I could see using a fret press when the neck is glued in could be troublesome. I'll probably glue the board then fret with the neck off the guitar. I'll probably make my own fret press caul too for the drill press. Or just do it old school.

 

[Fallen]

Got the fret boards ready for the most part.

Here is the first one with dots and second radiused with 80.

I rough cut it and did a mock up with the neck.

Here are both with Dots

And finally, a look at them dampened. The second one still needs to be radiused with 220 and 320. What grit do you sand your boards too?

Pictures really dont do justice. The second board (un cut one) is almost fully a dark purple color while the other is a poo brown and ugly

 

[Fallen]

So the Texas monsoon is over after a month and some change and I am able to work again!

I got the boards radiused to 600 grit and trimmed to shape.

I then used a spare piece of binding to off set the board to make the binding flush with the neck.

I am still waiting for funds on tools so I will just be working on the neck for the time being.

But the UPS gods blessed me today with a Shipment from Gilmer! This is for the next build though but I wanted to share! Yes I know I should have spent it on tools... I couldnt resist though!!!

 

[SG John]

Looking good! Have you made any progress since your last post?

 

[Fallen]

Looking good! Have you made any progress since your last post?

Not even a little bit!

I am waiting on a fret saw to make the slots deeper before putting the binding on. But once that comes in OH BOY do I have some work to do to get the neck done!

 

[Fallen]

So, it has been a while since anything has happened. I have since gotten the fretboard slots deeper.

I also got the neck shaped. It is a fatty!

I have gotten the flame headstock cap on. Debating to leave it flamed or painting it Pelham as well.

And finally for this week, I got the headstock thicknessed down to ~16 mil.

Next I will finish shaping the back of the headstock, drill the tuner holes, and glue on the board!