Operation: Pelham V (Flying V log)

[Fallen]

Got some done tonight.

Got the binding filled and scraped.

I also got the neck blank jointed and neck roughed out.

That's all for today!



EDIT: I completely forgot to post the color swatches I made.

I probably will go with the middle color. Hence, "The Viridian V".

 

[rossfr]

nice choice! middle is the best to my eyes!

 

[mux164]

Got some done tonight.

Got the binding filled and scraped.

I also got the neck blank jointed and neck roughed out.

That's all for today!



EDIT: I completely forgot to post the color swatches I made.

I probably will go with the middle color. Hence, "The Viridian V".

i think they are all killer and wonder how much the last one will change over time as it yellows even more

 

[Fallen]

nice choice! middle is the best to my eyes!

i think they are all killer and wonder how much the last one will change over time as it yellows even more

Same, but being able to see them in person really makes you think.

The blue is really blue, like a Royal Blue. The middle is closer to actual pelham but two extra tint clear coats to give it a slight aged look. The green, is really green. Think Emerald Green. If it yellowed more over time it would probably change to a dark forest green. If I did go that green I would probably do a minwax clear or poly to keep it that green, Forest Green is gross to me.

 

[Fallen]

Here we go again!

It has been a while as we had to prep for the house reno but lucky for me I have two weeks off so I know what to do with my spare time.

I started the day by shaping the neck taper with the robo sander

Sadly not long after, I messed up the Tenon and had to scrap it... Maybe I'll attempt to fix it one day. After I did some math, then prepared the fret board for cutting.

I also went out and bought some Minwax clear and Ace Instant dry lacquer for testing. I heard the Ace stuff was the most like 50's Nitro so yellowing and checking comparisons will be made with the Minwax (for a future build, not this one. But when I say 50's you probably already know plus it is in the sig ).

And lastly, I flush routed the MDF templates I made but for some reason I apparently only took a picture of the headstock template... Yes I know the Center line of off center.

Will be back tomorrow!

 

[grohlstheman]

Any updates? I think the pelham in the middle looks great. Not too blue but not green

 

[Fallen]

Any updates? I think the pelham in the middle looks great. Not too blue but not green

As a matter of fact I do!!

I started the day preparing the fret boards to the trim routed to remove the excess for the nut.

I then Sprayed some test strips with the Minwax and Ace lacquer to test yellowing and checking. I also picked up some Watco lacquer over the weekend to test.

I remade a neck template and created two fret board templates as well as cavity cover route templates. I also trimmed the heel off my side profile template as it was a pain in the arse...

Then after finished the routing for the humbuckers. I need a jigsaw to make more body templates...

And lastly, I started a rickety arse paint booth. I just used scrap pine and Douglass Fir 2x4's that were wickedly twisted and warped... But as I always say, "Anything is structurally sound if you put enough screws in it". I put 3/4's of a 1lb box of screws in it.

And for giggles, here are some dope clouds from all the storms we are having here.

 

[Ronsonic]

as I always say, "Anything is structurally sound if you put enough screws in it".

Wisdom.

Wicked clouds.

Cool Guitar.

 

[Fallen]

Wisdom.

Wicked clouds.

Cool Guitar.

Thanks!!

Today, I Routed for HumBuckers. As you can see my router got a little squirreley on the neck pickup. Mainly my fault, I didnt check that the bearing was not on the already routed part /facepalm.

Then I started the neck mortise. But had a mishap with the binding and had to repair it.

tomorrow I start on the second neck.

 

[Fallen]

Yay! Progress!

Today, I did a test fit of the neck template to verify fit when routing the tenon on the real neck. Template passed the body test, hopefully the neck will to. From the wide angle lens that neck template looks 47 feet long

Then I cut and started shaping the neck side profile. This will be a fatty, 1" at the first fret and 1.25" at the 12th. I will then shape to liking after.

And done!

Tomorrow, I will route the truss rod channel, shape the tenon and head stock (maybe neck top profile too), then start working on the fret board.


Is it weird that I like the smell of rosewood???

 

[Bill Hicklin]

Um- flatsawn orientation for the neck? Be very, VERY careful with the headstock.

Is it weird that I like the smell of rosewood???

Not at all, it's very nice. In fact that's where the name came from.

 

[Fallen]

Um- flatsawn orientation for the neck? Be very, VERY careful with the headstock.

Not at all, it's very nice. In fact that's where the name came from.

For on what drops or just in general? How do you tell the difference between the saw types? I looked online and I have an understanding of what to look for but when actually looking they all look the same.

But if flat sawn, it is from a blank that was cut in half and grain orientation in the opposite direction.

 

[Bill Hicklin]

In quartersawn wood, the annual growth rings, that is the grain lines, run vertically from front to back (or close to it), parallel to the sides. On the faces the grain looks like nice parallel straight lines This is much stronger; think of the wood as a series of laminations (in a way, it is).

Flatsawn wood has the growth rings running parallel to the front and back, showing on the faces as the characteristic concentric-parabola kind of pattern. Wood oriented this way relative to the bending force is considerably weaker, because it's inclined to "de-laminate" in the plane of the growth rings. This is a particular weakness at the headstock break of a one-piece neck, because those potential fracture lines run right through the headstock.

(Exception: maple, unusually, is actually stronger flatsawn).

 

[Fallen]

In quartersawn wood, the annual growth rings, that is the grain lines, run vertically from front to back (or close to it), parallel to the sides. On the faces the grain looks like nice parallel straight lines This is much stronger; think of the wood as a series of laminations (in a way, it is).

Flatsawn wood has the growth rings running parallel to the front and back, showing on the faces as the characteristic concentric-parabola kind of pattern. Wood oriented this way relative to the bending force is considerably weaker, because it's inclined to "de-laminate" in the plane of the growth rings. This is a particular weakness at the headstock break of a one-piece neck, because those potential fracture lines run right through the headstock.

(Exception: maple, unusually, is actually stronger flatsawn).

OK I see. Well yes, it is flat sawn then. The whole board I used for this build was. I guess what you would get at a mill will more than likely be flat sawn unless you specifically ask for quarter? Either way, I will press on unless some feel I should scrap the neck for another.

Thanks for the info!!

 

[Bill Hicklin]

No reason to junk it; just don't get some wild-hare notion about making it with an ultra-slim profile behind the upper frets, or get carried away cutting the TR nut pocket. And probably not a good idea to Townshend your amp with it at the end of the gig.

 

[Fallen]

No reason to junk it; just don't get some wild-hare notion about making it with an ultra-slim profile behind the upper frets, or get carried away cutting the TR nut pocket. And probably not a good idea to Townshend your amp with it at the end of the gig.

Nope, this will be a fatty neck. Bigger than a 50's profile at first and I will shape to liking after.

Not sure what the last part meant bu I would assume it is something along the lines of smashing gear at the end of a gig. If so, damn that is exactly what I was planning...



Today:

I made a makeshift fence for the router and routed the truss rod channel and did a test fit.

I then started working on the Maple head stock cover getting it ready.

I then decided that the truss rod nut channel was too small at a 1/4" so I widened it to 1/2".

I didnt get as much done on the neck as I wanted to today as and emergency came up but I snapped this quick picture before I left.

Not much left really.

be back monday

 

[Fallen]

So Today, I had a free minute to do some quick stuff.

I cut out the tenon and headstock shape on the band saw.

Then glued on the headstock wings to prepare to cut tomorrow.

Now for real back on Monday

 

[Fallen]

So, today I realized my pictures are huge and need to make them smaller for those who have slower connections.

** EDIT: Nevermind, I cant edit previous posts... Sorry people with slower connections


But for now, I got the neck top profile shaped (headstock, body, tenon).

But sadly, I realized that the tenon is to small for the pocket and doesnt fit...

So I added some tape to the mortise template to make the pocket smaller.

Also, over the last few days I have been creating more color swatches to test clear coats. All are with Reranch Pelham Blue as a base and from left to right clears are Ace Instant Dry, Reranch, Minwax Satin, and Watco.

I am leaning towards Minwax Satin for the whole guitar (minus the few reranch tinted clears for color) as it has a nice satiny sheen which I like and it lays down the flattest. Would really suck to come this far to have to reshoot color because of sand through.

Tomorrow, I will finish the mortise and prepare the neck for glue (not gluing yet). If I have time, I will tackle the fret board too.

Things on the order list:

3M stikit paper for radiusing
Fret Wire (Advice on a good brand? Looking for probably meduim/medium or medium/wide)
basic fretting kit from either LMII or stewmac
Dimarzio PAF 36ths single conductor

 

[Bill Hicklin]

Learning by doing, the best way!


Next time, cut the tenon slightly too big and then pare to fit with a sharp chisel. Or you can template-cut it with a router, except for the cheeks. Oh, right- cut the mortise FIRST, then fit the tenon to it. Much easier to fine-adjust a stick than a hole.

 

[ARandall]

Yep - cut outside the line. I did what you did with the first build. But mine was much more torturous as I tried using the router for the tenon. That one effectively died as I couldn't get the two wood surfaces to mate and didn't have the tools to make it right.

Now I use a dropsaw and a special jig to sit the neck blank on.

But if you want you could get 2 thin bits of mahogany and glue them to the neck blank so you can cut the mortice again.