Omfg, I’ve done it!

Brek

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Bought some 63/37 solder from cpc farnell, with the idea the reduced liquid zone would at least help me stop the lead or whatever shifting before it’s sets. First go with it and TWO SHINEY SOLDER JOINTS! One thing I have sussed is tip is very prone to oxidising even with keeping it tinned. So having to clean after every joint.
 

ehb

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Cool!

Reduced 'plastic zone' of about 9°F.... I keep a brass 'brillo' can handy and poke and twirl after about every joint... Tinned properly and allowed to cool with the tip coated with solder, no possible way to oxidize...


My hands shake a bit (neck injury years back and getting old) so I found I can rest my forearm on something and not shake, much less shifting, quicker soldering.... Here at the shop, I've used the neck rest on the bench to rest my forearm on before.... It works....
 

efstop

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Cool!

Reduced 'plastic zone' of about 9°F.... I keep a brass 'brillo' can handy and poke and twirl after about every joint... Tinned properly and allowed to cool with the tip coated with solder, no possible way to oxidize...


My hands shake a bit (neck injury years back and getting old) so I found I can rest my forearm on something and not shake, much less shifting, quicker soldering.... Here at the shop, I've used the neck rest on the bench to rest my forearm on before.... It works....
Getting old is not for the weak, wot?
 
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ehb

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Getting old is not for the weak, wot?
Nope, it ain't.... We make it to our 60s and we start remembering every stupid human trick we ever did.... Every stinking snap, crackle, and pop.... Rolling out of the rack in the morning can sound like a sound effect track for a movie....

Beats dirt sammich though!


:laugh2:
 

Brek

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I bought a big brass thingy and have started to do the same, clean after every joint. I had a small one with the station, but didn’t use it enough which didn’t help matters.
 

cooljuk

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I bought a big brass thingy and have started to do the same, clean after every joint. I had a small one with the station, but didn’t use it enough which didn’t help matters.
Now that you're getting into the swing of things, you might consider replacing the iron tip, it it's the same one you've been learning on with higher temperatures, lead-free solders, and melting plastics. The coating on iron tips is kinda fragile, believe it or not, and a new tip, dedicated to proper temperatures, materials and methods, will serve you very well. Get a few and change them regularly.
 

cooljuk

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Ya, that's important. I go through a ton of those and, despite the higher cost, I've been buying the Hakko branded ones (I think the ones you linked to are also good quality). Much like good guitar strings, I've found they cost more each, but last much longer and work more effectively. There really is such a significant difference between a cheap brass sponge and a well-made one, intended for soldering.

As much as I like those, there's still also something to be said for a wet sponge. It was once explained to me that the shock of the wet sponge on the iron beaks the scale off better, but it does shorten the tip life slightly. The only reason I don't do this method more is because it's a PITA to keep a wet sponge wet and clean all day.
 

Brek

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I have been doing both, learnt thanks to the links you (I think it was you) provided, I do both, the wet sponge shock in between each joint and if that doesn’t shift it a good root around in the brass. Repaired my tiny donner nano delay pedal whose input jacks had given up the ghost, all four joints shiny, sound first time. Except I didn’t photograph the connections before I desoldered, so had to change polarity of both jacks. Doh. Man it was tight in there, amazing how they fit an analog delay in that tiny tiny box.
 


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