NGD: Desert Star DSG012

LtDave32

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Here's a couple of under-construction pics from earlier in the build..

cheeks!

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nibs!

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oh, that sexy long tenon!

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Bevels aren't that hard, providing you lay out carefully for them, and don't cross the lines you've laid out.

Then you have to block-sand them with 120 paper on the bevel, then follow up on the flats. That crisps up the lines between the bevels and the flats..

..if that makes any damn sense..
 

mudface

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The Gibson Budokan Ace Les Paul Custom CS build has three Super Distortion pickups and purposely wired that the three way switch will only allow the bridge pup to work just like Ace’s actual guitar..... For $8k you can be stupid proof just like Ace.
 
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SteveC

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Dave, please tell us about nibs. I, for one, have no clue how that works
 

LtDave32

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Dave, please tell us about nibs. I, for one, have no clue how that works
Okay, I'll give you my best pitch.

To make them, you remove all traces of binding proud of the fret board that *isn't* the end of the fret.

It's rather difficult. But in my opinion worth it. the difficulty lies in not scratching or gouging the fret board in the process. Tough trick, to be sure.

Anyone who makes the claim of "more real estate" to play with frets over binding.. I don't know of any player who utilizes the last 16th of an inch of the fret end. Sorry, it don't wash with me. I bend my low E string and high E string towards the center, away from the edge. Just like everybody else.

I find them a classy look, and a smooth feel.


*Note: this is not an invitation to a nib argument for non-fans. Start your own thread.
 

Southwest

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ROFL

Let me see if I got this straight... :hmm:

A luthier who has built a considerable number of guitars-- all to rave reviews-- for clients who've ranged from professional musicians to highly accomplished amateur musicians gets yet another contract to build, this time for a player with decades of experience under his belt... right so far?

Right! :thumb:

BUT somehow the luthier suddenly forgot how to cut a nut, how to line up strings from bridge to nut-- and so forth-- and so suddenly muffs a job so badly that it's almost comical? Is that what somebody believed?

And after that, they also believed that the accomplished guitarist who contracted the work dfdn't NOTICE that there's something way off about this guitar? And instead, the accomplished guitarist raves about the instrument's quality and then submits a recording of himself playing the instrument beautifully-- even though the guitar is pretty much FUBAR?

So both the luthier and the guitarist who commissioned the hand-built guitar DON'T NOTICE that shit is seriously akimbo on the fretboard? Is that what somebody actually thought? :laugh2:

And oh my... SO hard to figure out that the distortion in the photo is the result of photographic paralax. I mean, that's just such an advanced kind of topic to comprehend!

--R :rofl:
Thanks Rob - this made me laugh hard at the end of a brutal day.

An anecdote. When Dave and I were discussing my heavily modified Apache build, he said he thought it would work, but he wanted to build a prototype to be sure.

I'll just let that hang for a second. He's building an entire guitar, out of scrap wood, at his cost. Just to make sure mine is perfect.

When the time comes, I'll remind him the nut goes on the front of the neck. Just to be sure.
 

Deftone

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I gotta say, I don't really like yellow. I'd never buy a yellow guitar*. But this one looks fantastic. Looks more like butter than yellow. I think this might be my favorite of all Dave's builds and I haven't seen one I didn't love.

*Exception: faded white (yellowed) nitro.
 

SteveC

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Okay, I'll give you my best pitch.

To make them, you remove all traces of binding proud of the fret board that *isn't* the end of the fret.

It's rather difficult. But in my opinion worth it. the difficulty lies in not scratching or gouging the fret board in the process. Tough trick, to be sure.

Anyone who makes the claim of "more real estate" to play with frets over binding.. I don't know of any player who utilizes the last 16th of an inch of the fret end. Sorry, it don't wash with me. I bend my low E string and high E string towards the center, away from the edge. Just like everybody else.

I find them a classy look, and a smooth feel.


*Note: this is not an invitation to a nib argument for non-fans. Start your own thread.
Wow - lotta work, considering you have to that 44 times (22 frets). It looks "finished", and the ones in the pix of this guitar pix look really great.

thx
 

LtDave32

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I gotta say, I don't really like yellow. I'd never buy a yellow guitar*. But this one looks fantastic. Looks more like butter than yellow. I think this might be my favorite of all Dave's builds and I haven't seen one I didn't love.

*Exception: faded white (yellowed) nitro.
Funny thing about TV yellow.

It was all over the place, but it never got to "taxicab" or "fire hydrant" yellow.

It was always either a wheat, a mustard or a touch of mustard-green-yellow, which is what CG requested, so he got.

Yet if you google "TV Yellow Special, junior, whatever, what you get is a whole page of crazy taxi and fire hydrant yellow guitars.

When I was a young guy and we would hit Hollywood for all the guitar stores (and there were many), we'd see TV yellow jrs and specials all over the place. Going rate? $200 to $250. I'm talking 58's, 59's etc.

All of them were either wheat or mustard.

Now I google that color guitar, and I get all sorts of wild and *wrong* yellow.

Finally found one that I consider to be the quintessential TV yellow example, And this is it:


rj0qzmzypplrb6tt4yp3.jpg



^--that there is the best example of true TV yellow that I've ever seen.

Everything is in there. If you want your mustard hue, it's there. Wheat overtones -yes. And that bit, that tinge of green. If you look hard enough, it's there.

What you don't see is that nasty taxi - hydrant yellow.


I got pretty close, but CG wanted a touch more green to it, so we went with this:

todd2.jpg



Which is fine, and true-to-form, for the original TV yellows varied quite a bit from almost pure wheat to yellow-green.
 
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CB91710

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Same here... Never really was a fan of yellow, especially the Fender Day-Glow "Graffiti Yellow"
But I like that... somewhere down the road I might have to have you build me a DC Junior in TV Yellow.
 

Deftone

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Funny thing about TV yellow.

It was all over the place, but it never got to "taxicab" or "fire hydrant" yellow.

It was always either a wheat, a mustard or a touch of mustard-green-yellow, which is what CG requested, so he got.

Yet if you google "TV Yellow Special, junior, whatever, what you get is a whole page of crazy taxi and fire hydrant yellow guitars.

When I was a young guy and we would hit Hollywood for all the guitar stores (and there were many), we'd see TV yellow jrs and specials all over the place. Going rate? $200 to $250. I'm talking 58's, 59's etc.

All of them were either wheat or mustard.

Now I google that color guitar, and I get all sorts of wild and *wrong* yellow.

Finally found one that I consider to be the quintessential TV yellow example, And this is it:


View attachment 543271


^--that there is the best example of true TV yellow that I've ever seen.

Everything is in there. If you want your mustard hue, it's there. Wheat overtones -yes. And that bit, that tinge of green. If you look hard enough, it's there.

What you don't see is that nasty taxi - hydrant yellow.


I got pretty close, but CG wanted a touch more green to it, so we went with this:

View attachment 543275


Which is fine, and true-to-form, for the original TV yellows varied quite a bit from almost pure wheat to yellow-green.
That grain showing through....awesome. But yea, bright taxi yellow, not working for me.

My '66 was "Springtime Yellow." Probably pretty faded when I had it, but I thought it looked pretty good for Yellow.

stang1.jpg
 

LtDave32

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That grain showing through....awesome.
If you're gonna do TV yellow, you MUST have the grain showing. Otherwise, it's just a funky yellow.

The whole damn point is the contrasting grain color over the yellow.

Trouble is, it's too easy to fill those grain pits with sealer and paint. You have to apply them thin.

You first seal the wood. *Edit, then you apply a thin white wash coat. Then you apply two color coats, thin.

Then you wipe on your grain filler with the grain, and wipe it off at a 45 degree angle to the grain, as to lessen it pulling out on cleanup.

Then you have to worry about scratching the thin color when you clean the excess grain filler up. So you keep an amount of color paint on hand.

Then, when you've got it good, you start on the clear coating.
 
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