New pickup for a custom

[dazzypig]

I'm thinking of changing a few parts out on my new '10 Custom (white).

I'm looking for a new bridge p'up (preferably in double cream flavour ). I mainly play 80's metal style on it (particularly RR Ozzy era inspired stuff) but also like to get a nice fat bluesy tone with some good crunch. 4 conductor for coil tapping would also be great. The 498 that it's got isn't too bad but does seem to lack a bit of top end definition, I quite like the bass response though for palm muting. Currently thinking about a Super Distortion or a 36th anniversary (both Dimarzio). Any suggestions or input would be greatly appreciated.

I'm also thinking of having a look at a new bridge T/P (TonePros) and was wondering what differences I could expect to hear if I did make a change.

While I'm here, I also may as well ask about any electronic upgrades that people might suggest (changing out the pansy ceramic caps? etc.)

Thanks again folks and look forward to hearing what y'all think!

D

 

[gtr-tek]

I like the Dimarzio 36th anniversary pup quite well. I put one in one of my Lester-likes (Tradition carve-top double-cut MTQ) and it sounds very good for rock & blues. I'm not as familliar with the Super Distortion. I set mine up with a push-pull for series/parallel switching. I prefer parallel to coil tap on 'buckers as less power is lost and it doesn't hum.

Some guys here are replacing the magnet on the 498 with an alnico as I think the 498 has a ceramic magnet. This mod makes it much more like a T-top. This does require disassembly of the pup though.

I also use TonePros as they add some sustain and punch due to the better coupling. Be sure and notch the saddles for your string gauges as the supplied notches are guides.

I also prefer the 50's style tone circuit with PIO caps as the tone and volume controls are more usable in my opinion. The PIO definitely opens up the tone and the control warms up the sound with initial roll-off as opposed to immediately turning to mud. With some experimenting, certain values of the cap can have the fixed-wah effect when fully turned down.

I hope this helps!

 

[gtr-tek]

Another note, you might want to try the tone circuit mod before changing pups as it may be more to your liking.

 

[dazzypig]

Another note, you might want to try the tone circuit mod before changing pups as it may be more to your liking.

gtr, thanks for your post. I've got an SG standard (same pickup config as the custom) and had a couple of old PIOs fitted to that, I found it really did make the tone and vol pots more 'usable' so I think that would be a good move at the very least. Although, even on the SG, they still don't quite have the extra push that a higher output p'up might give? Only problem being, the 498 is already pretty hot and I'm not too familiar with the higher out-put side of things as I was more of a blues rock guy BC. (BC= Before Custom )

Can an in-experienced 'solder....er' make the changes to 50's spec (can't solder at all at the mo', although I do have a variable iron and lead free solder to hand..) or would it be time to hand some more money over to my tech guy?

Cheers again,

D

P.S. Was quite underwhelmed with the control cavity when I opened it up, for a £2.5k guitar, the electronics don't look too great (the lentil sized caps being one of the issues). Not too neat either IMO.

 

[MrRhoads]

Some guys here are replacing the magnet on the 498 with an alnico as I think the 498 has a ceramic magnet. This mod makes it much more like a T-top. This does require disassembly of the pup though.

The Gibson 498T is about 14kOhm and Alnico 5 magnet which is far from a T-Top.

The target resistanc for a T-Top were 7,5kOhm and you should use a short Alnico 5 magnet and the pickup closest to a T-Top is a Gibson 490R as they tend to read between 7,2-8,0kOhm and other than the short Alnico 5 magnet they are the same as a T-Top according to Gibson corp.
A Gibson 490T could also be used if you wan´t a hotter T-Top but even though it´s a little hotter than the 490R it´s still close.
490T i think reads from 7,8-8,6kOhm but still target resistance for T-Top is 7.5kOhm

 

[dazzypig]

would it be worth looking at a t-top then do you think?

They can still be had for quite cheap can't they?

Cheers again,

D

 

[dazzypig]

Well, I just bought a T-top off the bay for £50 (one of the later, non-sticker ones) and I'll give that a go. I'll let you know what I think!

I'll definitely be getting some PIOs too.

EDIT: Just had a quick conversation with Jonesy (very helpful) and he has steered me towards another set of ceramic disc caps (from the 70's) that will get me a bit closer to the Randy tone.

Anyone got any good info on setting up a push/pull for a coil tap or series/parallel switching? What post is typically used for this, bridge vol or tone? What pot would be best to use etc?

Thanks for the help folks, it's always appreciated.

D

 

[ehamady6]

I put a Tonepros locking tailpiece and locking bridge on my 2008 ebony Custom. I noticed a little more sustain. When I installed Grover locking tuners in conjunction with the locking Tonepros hardware I noticed a lot more sustain. And the strings stay in tune after serious bending.

 

[gtr-tek]

Well, I just bought a T-top off the bay for £50 (one of the later, non-sticker ones) and I'll give that a go. I'll let you know what I think!

I'll definitely be getting some PIOs too.

EDIT: Just had a quick conversation with Jonesy (very helpful) and he has steered me towards another set of ceramic disc caps (from the 70's) that will get me a bit closer to the Randy tone.

Anyone got any good info on setting up a push/pull for a coil tap or series/parallel switching? What post is typically used for this, bridge vol or tone? What pot would be best to use etc?

Thanks for the help folks, it's always appreciated.

D

I like using the tone pot with the switch because I'm less likely to bump it down when playing. Just personal preference there. Use the same value pot as you would otherwise. There are plenty of diagrams here to show wiring them for either coil tap or series/parallel (my favorite). Seymour Duncan's site has plenty of info also.

Sorry about the confusion with the magnet thing as MrRhoades pointed out. I had the wrong model pup there!

 

[dazzypig]

I like using the tone pot with the switch because I'm less likely to bump it down when playing. Just personal preference there. Use the same value pot as you would otherwise. There are plenty of diagrams here to show wiring them for either coil tap or series/parallel (my favorite). Seymour Duncan's site has plenty of info also.

Sorry about the confusion with the magnet thing as MrRhoades pointed out. I had the wrong model pup there!

I've ordered the part necessary now to do the push pull with the t-top. Only problem is, I still don't fully understand the difference between series/parallel and coil tapping. Coil tapping would be eliminating one of the coils right? So what what would series/parallel be?

sorry, I'm sure it's a pretty simple thing but it still hasn't 'clicked' with me yet.

Thanks again,

D

 

[gtr-tek]

Parallel is both coils in circuit side by side, not cascaded as in series. Coil split is turning one coil off. I prefer parallel as it is less noisy than coil splitting and has a smoother sound with slightly more power. It is less power than series though, hence a drop in output when switched to. You can try both and see which you prefer.

4 wire lead is necessary on the pickup for parallel option and at least 3 wires for coil split.

 

[dazzypig]

Parallel is both coils in circuit side by side, not cascaded as in series. Coil split is turning one coil off. I prefer parallel as it is less noisy than coil splitting and has a smoother sound with slightly more power. It is less power than series though, hence a drop in output when switched to. You can try both and see which you prefer.

4 wire lead is necessary on the pickup for parallel option and at least 3 wires for coil split.

So. Would that mean for a true-er single coil sound, a coil split is necessary? The noise you mention in this case would relate o the good 'ol 60 cycle?

 

[Exluthier]

Yes if you split the coils you're essentially turning your humbucker into a single coil. It will hum.

 

[dazzypig]

Yes if you split the coils you're essentially turning your humbucker into a single coil. It will hum.

Ah, that's what I'm after!

Great stuff, should get the rest of the parts in the mail this week so i'll update after I've finished and let everyone know how I got on.

 

[dazzypig]

Update:

Well... I've got the caps, the pot and the pickup, might have a go at wiring it in today.

Only problem is, I haven't actually bought a T-top

I thought the 'T' marking was on the baseplate, but ofcourse, it's on the bobbins, which mine don't have. It is Pat no. stamped on the bottom though and looks pretty old (easily old enough to fall into the category of the ealier late 70's stamped p'ups). Wax potted and adjustable pole-peices on one side only (so it wouldn't be a dirty fingers?).

Feel a bit silly, but still interested in trying it out. Would anyone mind me sending them some pictures to post via e-mail to save me opening up a photobucket account for a couple of pickup pics?
Then we can have a good 'ol game of "so what did D buy?"

Only problem with fitting it so far as i can see is that it has different coloured wires from the pictures I'm used to seeing.

I've got, blue, red, green and yellow. What are they?

One more for good luck:

EDIT: Starting to worry now, I think I may have bought a real dog of a p'up, should've done my research better...

 

[dazzypig]

Ok, turns out I already had a photobucket account. Here goes nothin'

So... What is it? Looks like whatever it is, someone has mucked about with it, no?

Ooh, on the up-side, looks like my phone takes good pics

 

[LtKojak]

So... What is it?

Take some Ohm readings so we can make an educated guess.

But for the looks of it, it's not like any other Gibson p'up I've had. Seems to me it's been tampered with.

 

[dazzypig]

Take some Ohm readings so we can make an educated guess.

But for the looks of it, it's not like any other Gibson p'up I've had. Seems to me it's been tampered with.

That's what I'm thinking. (tampered)

I thought I would have learned the whole 'looking before I leap' thing by now. Silly boy.

I haven't got a multimeter so I'm at a bit of a loss on that one. Any idea why it's got wires protruding directly from the side of the pickup itself? They're all soldered in pairs but I just can't understand why they're there.

 

[LtKojak]

to Dazzypig:

If you have a NEW guitar why are you changing things? What's what you don't like?

If it came with the dread couple "(490R/498T), a simple magnet change could give you what you're looking for. I've done this literally hundreds of times (I'm a hobby guitar tech), and with that guitar (I've got one like that myself) putting an Alnico 4 magnet in the 490R and an Alnico 8 in the 498T gives a killer matching that could play any kind of music, sounding just as good squiky clean than over-the-top overdriven death metal.

Search for instructions in how to magnet swap and look for Addiction FX in E-bay. He's got all the magnets you can use and then some.

Here's the link: http://stores.ebay.it/Addiction-FX-Guitar-and-Sound__W0QQ_fsubZ2024226015

Don't forget to ask to get your magnets FULL-CHARGED. It's been my experience that in the process of packing, sending and receiving the goods the magnets lose just the right amount of Gauss so they sound sweet right out of the box.

In this way you keep the untouched look of that new, beautiful guitar of yours.

EDIT: I've just noticed you're from the UK. Have a go with these guys, it may be simpler as they'll be no customs involved:

http://www.rockmonkeyguitars.com/humbucker_magnets.htm

PS: get a digital multimeter. It costs less than 10 quid, and it'll be REALLY useful in anything gear-related.

HTH,

 

[dazzypig]

Whatever happens, the likelihood now of me putting this pickup into my Custom in the near future is minimal. I was looking for something with slightly more definition in the highs when the gain as turned up a bit but still retained that bluesy edge.

The T-top was suggested to be a good choice, based on what I'd said, and that's what I thought I had got (until I did the pitifully small amount of research needed to know that this isn't a T-top, after buying it...)

As it is though, I may just swap out the caps with the ones I bought from Jonesy, look at the 50's mod and then leave it alone for a while.