Need some help with a decision.

Xavier_32

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You kidding me? I'm not selling that thing. As far as the guys over on the Gretsch forums could find, I own one of only two in existence. That thing's going to my grandchildren.

When I thought it was a 1950 Synchromatic 100, it would have been worth around $1,500 and I would have used that for the Les Paul. Now that it's too rare for me to consciously sell, I'm not selling it and thus have no money for that Les Paul.

How much does a kidney go for on the black market these days? Only need one to live anyway.
 

moff40

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Dude, that's too bad. It looks like a really nice guitar. That said, I think you can do better than that one. I've picked up a few (three) LEFTY (read "more expensive") Deluxes over the past couple of years, that were in better shape for about the same money or less.

My all-original '74 CSB was the most expensive at $2400 (December 2007), and the '77 I bought in December of '08 was the least expensive at $1500. All three have been in better shape cosmetically than the one on gbase, but the '77 needed a fretboard planing and consequently, a refret, and it had aftermarket tuners on it.

'77 on the left, '74 on the right, first stock, then with P-90s
100_5363-1.jpg

100_5371-1.jpg


'80 GT, bone stock:
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I guess the point is - the deals are out there on craiglist and eBay. No, you don't get to play eBay guitars before buying, but so far, I've been pretty lucky. Be patient, but also be prepared to jump when you find "the one"
 

Xavier_32

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Yeah, I know you're right. But that '72 just sits there in those pictures, seductively taunting with that 'hey, remember me?' stare. Been looking around all day, and haven't seen another '72 with original hardware that hasn't had a head stock repair.
 

eaglewolf

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You might also try pawn shops. One near me has my Custom 68 that was stolen and recovered (after I was reimbursed.) You never know what you might find.

I picked an R9 because I tried one and loved the way it played and sounded compared to the other guitars I tried. It looked incredible, but it was the way that it played that sold me. Same for the R6. But if you don't like the neck profile of an R8, you really won't like the R6, at least if the one I had and the others I've tried are any indication. I have big hands and like the thicker necks. It sounded sweet though.

Also, I did see a couple of plain top R0's at Centre City Music in San Diego. They said they don't see too many plain top R0's. I loved the one I tried out and wished I could have afforded it. Instead I went for the PRS I have for nearly $1000 less.

If you start thinking new, that is a store to check out. The prices are better than just about anywhere else on Gibson products from what I saw, and Saul is a great guy to deal with. I think I read somewhere in those 7 pages of thread that you are in the LA area, so it would be worth the drive. My best friend is from that general area and bought his R8 from CCM. Saul gets some decent used gear from time to time as well, and recently sold my ES-335.

Welcome to the forum. Hopefully we've been of some help to you.

By the way, I can't understand why Boles doesn't have an R0 yet. I'm losing my awe and reverence for him. Call Saul now, Boles! You've got to fix this! :D

David
 

Xavier_32

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Thanks. If I do decide to go new, R9 or R0 for sure. Definitely not VOS. I'm pretty heart set on getting an early Norlin though. I'm also pretty sure I want a '72, since that's what I fell in love with when I was 14.

On a VERY related note, I saw THIS '72 custom posted here. I've never seen another Custom with white details instead of black details. How common is this? I would totally get a white detail custom :D
 

Les Paw

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Go with the early one. NOT the R's. I know that might piss off some people, but I have a few Norlins and they sound great. If you are patient you will find the right one. I guess all the guys playing those 11LB les pauls in the 70's were losers right??? Go with tried and true. Get a Norlin or another early model. NOT the new ones!! The truth is in the tone!! So it is really up to you. I have owned both and I prefer the old ones HANDS DOWN!
 

moff40

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You know, Xavier - a properly done headstock repair isn't really a problem. It's actually stronger than an unbroken one, and may just bring the price of an early Norlin into range for you. Something to consider...
 

Xavier_32

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I realize this. I can handle all the paint scratching/chipping/fading you can toss at me, but at the point of wood cracks/breakage, the cosmetic effect is just too much for me to bear. I know, lame, but that's the truth.
 

moff40

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I realize this. I can handle all the paint scratching/chipping/fading you can toss at me, but at the point of wood cracks/breakage, the cosmetic effect is just too much for me to bear. I know, lame, but that's the truth.

I know there are plenty of DIY and substandard headstock repairs out there, but I'm talking about a well done repair, which would be nearly or completely invisible.

These are pics of the headstock repair on my old studio. The repair was invisible except for a very slightly darker stain used in the area (the difference you see in the third pic is more dramatic than it really was - probably shadows...). The actual crack went across the neck\headstock joint, and pretty much filleted the headstock:

100_5339.jpg

100_5337.jpg

100_5346.jpg
 

Xavier_32

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Yeah, I've yet to see that. They all look like Frankenstein jobs.
 

checkedgoldtop

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You kidding me? I'm not selling that thing. As far as the guys over on the Gretsch forums could find, I own one of only two in existence. That thing's going to my grandchildren.

When I thought it was a 1950 Synchromatic 100, it would have been worth around $1,500 and I would have used that for the Les Paul. Now that it's too rare for me to consciously sell, I'm not selling it and thus have no money for that Les Paul.

How much does a kidney go for on the black market these days? Only need one to live anyway.

Rare doesn't always mean desirable. Not to cut on your guitar, I like it but would rather have a norlin to pass down.
 

checkedgoldtop

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I know there are plenty of DIY and substandard headstock repairs out there, but I'm talking about a well done repair, which would be nearly or completely invisible.

These are pics of the headstock repair on my old studio. The repair was invisible except for a very slightly darker stain used in the area (the difference you see in the third pic is more dramatic than it really was - probably shadows...). The actual crack went across the neck\headstock joint, and pretty much filleted the headstock:

100_5339.jpg

100_5337.jpg

100_5346.jpg

A local guy Pat W. does repairs that good. I saw one of his repairs on an 89 standard that I couldn't tell.
 

Bing17

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zeppelin 101 i know he does thanks sherlock holmes, he helped me pick between my 68 and a traditional

I know it's late in the game but I haven't been on this forum in a while and I'm just catching up.

The phrase is, "No shit, Sherlock". Can't you get anything right?
 

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