Need more neck relief, but trussrod is already loose

C_Becker

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Hey folks, I need your expert help on this one.
I wanted to adjust the neck bow on my J&D Les Paul, it needs a little more neck relief, but the truss rod is already fully loose (single-action).
So, other then putting on larger gauge strings (11s on there now), is there anything I can do to get some bow into the neck ?
 

ARandall

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Maybe putting a slight backbow in there and dressing the frets flat. Then you have some relief once the rod is looser.
 

jkes01

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Look at this.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtKzL3n0fgc[/ame]
 

ARandall

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His needs to go the other way though........the way that the rod can't adjust for.
 

KP11520

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Cover the rest of the guitar with a blanket or whatever, and leave the fretboard exposed. Put it in the sun for about an hour (YMMV). This time of year, it's not too hot to do damage, but will give enough uniform heat to help things move.

Hope this helps!
 

C_Becker

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So you think the heat would cause the neck to move ?
Or would I need to bend it a little when its warm ?

I have been thinking of putting a support on the neck below the head stock and put some weight in the middle of the neck. Do you think that could work ?
 

MooCheng

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has the guitar been refretted ?
frets too tight a fit in the fret slots can cause this
 

rabidhamster

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I've had luck loosening the truss rod and lightly clamping the neck to where I want it, weighting it, or putting massive strings tuned way up tight. Then leave it in a very warm area for a while - garages in the south count easily.
Once the neck is pulled forward into more of a forward bow, you can tighten the truss rid just a hair til there's tension on it, put the right strings back on, and see where you're at.

If it's really warped this won't always work enough, but it's a good first step and when it does work it's nearly shocking how well it works
 

Jim_E

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His needs to go the other way though........the way that the rod can't adjust for.

Yes, so all the OP needs to do is the opposite of the video.
Two blocks under the neck and a C clamp in the middle, clamping it down to the bench, you can dial in all the relief you want and hold it there until there's as much relief as desired when you pull the clamp, heat and perhaps a humid atmosphere will speed things up.
 

jkes01

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^ This was my point with the video.

Also, are you sure it is a one way truss rod? I had the same problem with my Epi 339 and kept turning the nut to loosen and it started to force the neck into relief, it was actually a 2 way rod.
 

KP11520

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So you think the heat would cause the neck to move ?
Or would I need to bend it a little when its warm ?

I have been thinking of putting a support on the neck below the head stock and put some weight in the middle of the neck. Do you think that could work ?


I think you might just be surprised what can happen if you give it a chance. The 11's should be enough with the uniform heat of the Sun's radiation. IMO, Heat guns are too risky for inlays as well as other reasons. Mostly cooking one area and not enough on another. All Natural used to be coveted! :shock:

Try it first before ratcheting it up to the next solution. Certainly easy enough.

Good luck!
 

C_Becker

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-It hasn't been refretted afaik
-100% sure Its single action, the nut can be taken off

Thanks all, I'll give it a try next week, the guitar is at my work apartment at the moment
 

ARandall

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Yes, so all the OP needs to do is the opposite of the video.
Two blocks under the neck and a C clamp in the middle, clamping it down to the bench, you can dial in all the relief you want and hold it there until there's as much relief as desired when you pull the clamp, heat and perhaps a humid atmosphere will speed things up.

I tried this with a neck that I had sanded a slight backbow into during construction. Due to an overseas trip it sat for 3 months like that.....not a single bit of effect, even though the clamps were moving the wood plenty when applied.
 

Bill Hicklin

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Maybe putting a slight backbow in there and dressing the frets flat. Then you have some relief once the rod is looser.

Bingo. That's the way I always build 'em if I use a single-action trussrod; actually I do this before final planing/sanding of the fingerboard. (I prefer DA's though, for just this reason)
 

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