Need advice on a pickup/switch issue

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Blind Jasper

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Hi everyone, I recently got my hands on an 81 Custom and for a couple months it played fine. Now the neck pickup either doesn't work, has very low output, or works fine. Although it very rarely works fine, but I do occasionally get it to put out at a normal volume.

I'm pretty good with electronics and was going to pull the pickup, test it and/or try another pickup in there to start troubleshooting. But there are other factors. The selector switch can be very scratchy and if I fiddle with it I can get the pickup to work.

I've changed every electronic in a Paul except the selector switch.

So my questions to the forum are; Does this sound like a pickup problem? What can I test (pickup output) to try and identify the problem? Do I need a special tool to get the selector switch out or what normal tool is best for unscrewing it?

Thank you in advance. I'm a little out of my league here.
 

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Bill Hicklin

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Sure sounds to me like a bum switch. Bypass it with a jumper and see if the p/u plays at full volume: if so, the switch needs cleaning or replacing.
 

Blind Jasper

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Thanks Bill, that's why I love this board. Can you tell me how I would do that?
 

Skyjerk

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Disconnect the wire from the middle lug of the neck volume pot (that wire should go to the toggle), then run a wire directly from that lug to the hot (tip) of the output jack.

Keep the toggle in the neck position.

It the issue was the toggle you should have normal output volume...
 

D'tar

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In this picture you could just short the red and white wires together(switch in neck position). If its the switch causing the issue you will have eliminated it.




 

Skyjerk

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In this picture you could just short the red and white wires together(switch in neck position). If its the switch causing the issue you will have eliminated it.






in theory yes, but this assumes that theres no problems with any of the wires going between the volume pot and the switch.

Doing it the way I suggested takes it all out of the wire out of the equation as well as the switch and tests only the pickup...
 

telle

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I recently had a switch issue. The outer tounge in the switch didnt make enough contact with the inner tounge on one side. Probably was some corrosion plus not enough force from the inner tongue.
So i simply took a small screwdriver and bent the outer tongoue inwards.
If you take the switch out you will see how it works.
Dunno if u get anything out of my explanation haha.
Good luck :)

Cheers
/ted
 

KP11520

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A new Switchcraft 3-way costs between $15 to $20 usually, if you need a new one. Hopefully, the leads inside the guitar are long enough to back out the switch and resolder in the new one. If so, protect the guitar. If not, you might have to also unsolder the leads from the pots and jack, to work with it out of the guitar.

Good luck.
 

Blind Jasper

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Thank you everybody. I really appreciate the help. I had replaced a switch in my Flying V, it was doing something similar which is why I think it's the switch.
 

Blind Jasper

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Can anyone tell me what the best way to unscrew the nut on the top of the switch? I thought there was a special tool for it but can probably just use pliers.
 

Skyjerk

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Can anyone tell me what the best way to unscrew the nut on the top of the switch? I thought there was a special tool for it but can probably just use pliers.

I just use a small plier, but put some tape around it so you dont scratch the finish.

Also, dont squeeze any harder than necessary to loosen the nut. You can ding up the edges of the nut.
 

D'tar

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in theory yes, but this assumes that theres no problems with any of the wires going between the volume pot and the switch.

Doing it the way I suggested takes it all out of the wire out of the equation as well as the switch and tests only the pickup...


Chris,

I understand that's the way you would do it but he asked how to bypass the "switch" and to me this would be the easiest way to eliminate the "switch" without having to unsolder anything.

Six in one hand, half dozen in the other.:)
 

Skyjerk

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Chris,

I understand that's the way you would do it but he asked how to bypass the "switch" and to me this would be the easiest way to eliminate the "switch" without having to unsolder anything.

Six in one hand, half dozen in the other.:)

Agreed. Your suggestion is distinctly faster and easier as well, and yields the same result
as long as all the wiring is intact.

I'd still do it my way, though. Leaves nothing to chance ;)
 

KP11520

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Even faster.....

Well, for me anyway...

Two probes of a continuity tester on the back of the switch. :hmm::shock::hmm:
 

emoney

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I put a little tape on pliers and use that as they're not normally overly tight anyway.
 

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