My Template Buiding Adventures

IceGator8

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As I begin my build I have had to decide what to do about templates. My original plan was to buy pre-cut templates from a builder on the net. However, I remember reading one of the build threads where the builder stated that making the templates was educational and kind of fun. I decided to attempt to build my own templates. If it didn't work then I could always buy the commercial variety.

The purpose of this thread is to help newbies out with template building. I figure they can learn from my triumphs and my mistakes. It would also be nice if you experienced builders chimed in with some tips. Feel free to critique my methods and point out potential problems.

I bought the Stew-Mac plans and downloaded the Catto plans. I went to Kinko's and printed the Catto plans on a large format printer so I could compare the two. It turns out the plans aren't exactly the same. I remember similar threads on this forum that mentioned this discrepancy. This is not a big deal as they probably took their measurements off different guitars. Ultimately I decided to go with the Stew Mac plan simply because it had all the neck stuff included. The Catto plan is excellent (especially for the price, thank you John!) but since this is my first build I wanted to go with the most detailed plan.

I went down to Home Depot and bought a decent size piece of 1/2" MDF. My plan was to use the MDF to make the template.

The next challenge was how to get the Stew Mac plan onto the MDF. There are a couple of methods for accomplishing this. I decided to take the plans over to Kinko's where they have a large format copier. I had a copy made of just the body. The copy is the exact same dimensions as the Stew Mac plan.

TemplateBuild04.jpg


I came up with two different ways to get the shape of the guitar onto the MDF. The first was to lay the new copy of the Stew Mac plan on the MDF with the middle attached to the MDF with double sided tape. then I would place a piece of carbon paper between the plan and the MDF and then trace the shape. The second was to either glue or tape the plane to the MDF.

I decided to go with plan number two. I decided to go with double-sided tape to attach the plan directly to the MDF. Here's what the back looks like with the tape:

TemplateBuild02.jpg


I then attached the plan to the MDF.

Since the band saw was out of commission I decided to use a scroll saw to cut out the template.

TemplateBuild07.jpg


As you can see in the pic I tried to leave about an 1/8" around the border of the template. I figure it's better to rough cut then sand things into shape. Here's a photo of where I finished the rough cut:

TemplateBuild14.jpg


Now I needed to touch up the roughed out MDF. I figured that I should use a razor blade to trim out the outline so that I can sand down to the edge of the Stew Mac plan. You can see how part of the edge in this pic is trimmed with a razor and part isn't:

TemplateBuild15.jpg


I decided to use a disk sander to smooth out the rough edges of the MDF. I was careful to try and stay with the body contours. The key to this was to use a really light touch with the MDF barely touching the disk sander. Another benefit to the disk sander is it corrected any edge errors the scroll saw may have made when it wasn't perfectly upright.

TemplateBuild11.jpg


The disk sander wouldn't get the waist curves or or horn of the guitar so I used an oscillating spindle sander. This tool has various sizes of spindles so you can come close to matching the curves. Again a really light touch must be used as the spindle sander will really take off the material if you aren't careful with the pressure. Check the different size of the spindle in these pics:

TemplateBuild16.jpg

TemplateBuild18.jpg


I finished up the job by hand sanding the template. This removed any remaining burrs. I did sand into the plan a bit in a couple of areas but blended the errors in nicely. I figure it's not a huge deal as most of these guitar weren't exactly the same shape. I did pay special attention to where the neck meets the body as that has to be straight.

Here are pics of the finished work featuring the front and the back:

TemplateBuild20.jpg

TemplateBuild19.jpg



If I had to do it over I would have glued the plan onto the MDF using a roller. I found that the parts of the edge where I didn't have double sided tape tended to get a bit ratty when I was working with the various sanding devices. This would not have happened if I would have glued. The double sided tape did hold things without slipping but I think the glue would have been better.

I will probably use this template to make another template out of some solid kind of board. MDF isn't exactly the sturdiest material.

Alright, give me your verdict as well as other ideas for accomplishing the task.
 

xsouldriverx

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hopefully this wont hinder you but i just want to make sure you know...
the Stew Mac plans state on it
"drawing is for reference only, please use measurements listen on drawing."
just make sure you know this before you do a copy and paste type job using the plans and not measuring things. i dont know how far off the drawing is to what the measurements say or should be, but i would hate to see you 1/2 way througha bild and get an OH S**T moment
 

IceGator8

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hopefully this wont hinder you but i just want to make sure you know...
the Stew Mac plans state on it
"drawing is for reference only, please use measurements listen on drawing."
just make sure you know this before you do a copy and paste type job using the plans and not measuring things. i dont know how far off the drawing is to what the measurements say or should be, but i would hate to see you 1/2 way througha bild and get an OH S**T moment

Good point. I should measure it. You would think any plans they built to the exact size or a stated scale. I've been working on plans for the neck and that part seems to measure up.

I'll measure and post back.
 

xsouldriverx

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i put my gibby lp up to it to measure it and the real guitar was a bit smaller i think (going from memory) but the thing i would worry about is the bridge, tai,l pick up, and neck placing. the actual size/shape of the guitar matters much less
 

IceGator8

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i put my gibby lp up to it to measure it and the real guitar was a bit smaller i think (going from memory) but the thing i would worry about is the bridge, tai,l pick up, and neck placing. the actual size/shape of the guitar matters much less

I've actually come to realise that the body size varied a bit between different Les Pauls. I was going to measure for the pickups and bridge anyway.

One thing I did look at already is the fretboard. The Stew Mac plans and the Stew Mac pre-slotted fretboard I bought line up perfectly.
 

69GTLP

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I put my buddy's 72 LP custom up against the plan and the body shape matched it almost dead on. My fretbord from Stew Mac also matched up perfect. For my use it's good to go.
 

IceGator8

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Anyone have some advice for doing a neck profile template? I'm busy measuring one out but I really don't want to screw it up.
 

61LPSG

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Anyone have some advice for doing a neck profile template? I'm busy measuring one out but I really don't want to screw it up.

Buy a profile gauge. They are about $9 at any hardware or home improvement store. Carve/shape a bit then check it with the profile gauge...lay the flat of the neck on a flat surface and gently press the gauge over it (a the proper fret), then lay your gauge against the plan to compare. No need to make templates. This tool can be used for so many different things. It works great for checking "open book" shape on a headstock. You can use it to check for symmetry too, just by holding it one way, then flipping it over to compare.
It's also great for checking the top carve profile.
 

IceGator8

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Yesterday I got around to making a routing template for the control cavities. I used the current template that I'd finished and cut another copy exact with a flush trim bit and a router table.
Les&

DSC00622.jpg

DSC00623.jpg


I had made a full size photocopy of the Stew Mac routing scheme and proceeded to attach it to the new template. I wanted to test my new Dremel and Stew Mac rounter base so I started by trying to hog out the control cavity by hand. The router base is really cool but I learned a few important lesson the most important being that you should start with a shallow cut and work your way down. This was actually really good practice in handling the tool as I will be using this setup to do my inlay routing.
DSC00630.jpg


Eventually it was time to move on to the scroll saw and get the rest out.
DSC00632.jpg


At this time I also used a spade bit to route out the pickup selector switch hole.
DSC00631.jpg


The scroll saw worked great routing the wiring channel as well. I cleaned up the channel with a a thin piece of wood with sandpaper around it. I ended up with this:
DSC00633.jpg


As you can see the control cavity was really rough so I smoothed it out with an oscillating spindle sander. This was the perfect tool for the job.
DSC00635.jpg

DSC00636.jpg


Unfortunately due to my incompetence with the Dremel the cavity didn't come out an exact replica of what was on the plans. I think a regular control cavity cover will work just fine on it but I'm still deciding if it will bug me enough to make an entirely new routing template with a more accurate control cavity.

Up next are the mortice template for the neck routing and the template for routing the tenon. I'm thinking of doing these out of acrylic.
 

The Stumble

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hi mate

you really want to do 2 seperate templates

one for the switch and control cavity and another for the wiring channel

this way you have a template to use to cut all the way through the body and one for the 1/2 inch wiring channel

what you have created could be difficuly to use
 

IceGator8

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hi mate

you really want to do 2 seperate templates

one for the switch and control cavity and another for the wiring channel

this way you have a template to use to cut all the way through the body and one for the 1/2 inch wiring channel

what you have created could be difficuly to use

I actually thought about this after and think you're right.
 

The Stumble

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no problem

simply do it again................. its all practice at the end of the day :slash:
 

eshuffle

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I use a 1 5/8 Forstner bit for the toggle switch cavity. It gives you alittle more room for your switch. I believe the plans call for a 1 3/8 if I'm not mistaken.
 

alexvdl

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hi mate

you really want to do 2 seperate templates

one for the switch and control cavity and another for the wiring channel

this way you have a template to use to cut all the way through the body and one for the 1/2 inch wiring channel

what you have created could be difficuly to use

I don't see why it should be a problem. You can set your router to any depth, so set it to 1/2 inch at the wiring channel and deeper at the other cavities. Why is that so difficult?

Just route the switch and electronics cavity including the wiring channel untill you reach 1/2 inch depth. Then only route the switch and electronics cavity deeper. If you're afraid the router will slip into the wiring channel, you can fill the wiring channel with a piece of wood.

No need for two templates.
 

IceGator8

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no problem

simply do it again................. its all practice at the end of the day :slash:

And I really think I will benefit by the practice. I decided I'll keep the current template for the wiring channel and make another for the switch and control cavities.
 

jaydawg

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One thing that I just did was have Kinko's scan my StewMac drawing to a PDF. Now I can just print out the parts I need for making templates at home. It's working very well. The prints come out to scale and measure the same as the StewMac drawing. I think it was like $5 to have them scan it to PDF.
 

IceGator8

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One thing that I just did was have Kinko's scan my StewMac drawing to a PDF. Now I can just print out the parts I need for making templates at home. It's working very well. The prints come out to scale and measure the same as the StewMac drawing. I think it was like $5 to have them scan it to PDF.

I did this very thing.
 

IceGator8

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Ok. I'm back with a new submission. I decided that I needed to make a new template for routing the control cavity and pickup selector switch cavity. I'm keeping the original template for the wiring channel. I really wanted to do a new template for three reasons:

1. The selector switch cavity hole was off by a couple of millimeters. I blame it on the spade bit and a lousy method for finding the center of the circle.

2. The control cavity ended up too big in places. While it would have worked I just wanted it to be better.


3. I felt like making another template would give me some good practice.

The first thing I did was route a body shape in MDF using the first template as a guide. Then with drops of crazy glue at strategic points I attached a photocopy of the Stew Mac routing portion of the plans to the MDF.
Les&


As mentioned I did a crappy job finding the center of the pickup selector cavity for drilling. This time I used the coverplate screw holes on the plan to find the exact center. You can see how I did this in the photo.
DSC00641.jpg


In the last template I kept the plans on top of the body when I started boring out the wood of the control cavity. This method wasn't the best as the paper would fray and I'd go to far. This time I did something different. I placed carbon paper under the cavity and then followed the lines with a pencil. It worked so well I decided to do all of the lines with the carbon paper and then removed the paper template. It came out looking like this:
DSC00643.jpg

DSC00644.jpg

DSC00645.jpg


This time I decided to use a forstner bit instead of a spade bit to drill the control switch hole. The forstner bit has a much smaller centering pin which allowed me to place it dead center. Also the forstner behaves better in the drill press for whatever reason.
DSC00646.jpg


For the control cavity instead of using a sabre saw I decide to drill out most of the material with two different forstner bits.
DSC00647.jpg


Then, like I did with the first template, used an oscillating spindle sander to carefully cut off the rest. This method worked perfectly and with a tiny bit of hand sanding I got this:
DSC00648.jpg


I forgot to take a pic of the template finished but I will say that this one is dead on accurate (ok that may be a slight exaggeration) and I'm much happier. Transfering the plan with carbon paper worked great.

Hopefully my mistakes and successes are helping other newbs. I still have to build the mortice and tenon templates but that should go quick. By the end of the weekend I expect that I'll start building the actual guitar and start a building thread.
 

Mr Bones

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hi mate

you really want to do 2 seperate templates

one for the switch and control cavity and another for the wiring channel

this way you have a template to use to cut all the way through the body and one for the 1/2 inch wiring channel

what you have created could be difficuly to use

I just use one to save mdf, and have a piece that fits in and fills the channel.
 

The Stumble

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I just use one to save mdf, and have a piece that fits in and fills the channel.

im not saying my way is right or wrong i do it using 2 because i choose to, each to there own :thumb:
 

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