My LP Trad neck relief and string action ?

[Subterfuge]

yea I know, I'm just reading all the different opinions out there and making sense more or less of them all. Neck relief has settled in at between .004 to .005 so that's a done deal. I went to the Schroeder website and they said to run a proper straight edge along the fret tops and when building a guitar when you get to between .580" to .600" under your straightedge, that's were to locate your bridge. I measured from my bridge body top (not saddle tops) to the deck and it was .570" Guitar plays good, always has, distance from deck to underside of Low E thumbwheel is almost 3/16 which seems a little high but I'm new to this stuff so I was just curious. When the High E is fretted there is 0.000 clearance period between the High E string and the first fret. String/fret clearance on first fret is 0.009" so I don't think the nut slot is cut too low .. just was curious

 

[Subterfuge]

I am very finicky about my action @Gentle Jesus. I like it as low as possible. I have small hands with skinny fingers so it’s much more comfortable playing to have it low.

Also I’m not suffering any tone loss.

My relief on all my Gibson’s is set at .004

My action is .793, (2/64), on the 12th fret...high E...and 1.190, (3/64) low E.

There’s no way to get these kind of numbers without a proper fret leveling. I’ve been doing fret leveling for about 20 years.

One of the first things I do when I get a new guitar, (new or used) is a fret leveling. They ALWAYS need it.

Wow I have never heard of action that low, sounds good

 

[Rocco Crocco]

I do 8 thou for neck relief.
5/64" at 17th fret for low E
4/64" at 17th for high E.

 

[Robus]

My guess would be that more people have a sheet of paper around, than proper feeler gauges.

That would be fine of all paper were of the same thickness. Is it?

 

[scozz]

Wow I have never heard of action that low, sounds good

Anyone can achieve these numbers on LPs if they want...a quality fret leveling is the biggest component in this.

 

[moreles]

Since not all truss rods/necks produce identical relief "curves," using published tolerances as an absolute, final standard is simply a mistake. They are generalizations, and your results may -- and probably will vary. Once you find the setup you like on a particular guitar, then you can measure and use those numbers in the future. In my experience, one of the biggest obstacles to getting your personal best action is an improperly slotted nut. Though slotting too low is a disaster (new nut needed), having slots that are unnecessarily high is terrible, because that additional height manifests itself directly in your action, raising the string from the get-go. Two aspects of setting action are reliably impactful for me. The first is dealing with the nut, and the second is getting the relief right -- and stable. Most people tweak the rod and push onward. Necks do not react fully in an instant. I always apply a little back and forth pressure on my neck after tweaking the rod, and I always assume that I will need to do more adjusting after I've strung the guitar and the adjustment settles in under pressure.