My LP Trad neck relief and string action ?

Gentle Jesus

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Hello

I am just wondering if this is too low or too high as I have no idea what the factory standard set up is.

Neck Relief (capo on 1st fret, fretted at 15th fret, measured at 8th fret with feeler gauge):
.004" / .102mm

String Height (at 12th fret, no capo)
Low E String: .060" / 1.5mm
High E String: .040" / 1.0mm

Nut Action( no capo, measured at first fret with feeler gauge)
Low E String: .019" / .483mm
High E String: .006 / .051mm


I have some string buzz but it is hardly noticible through the amp and very noticable un-amped.

Not sure if I should set more relief and higher action as I want the action as low as possible ?

Thanks
 
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BBD

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No idea what factory specs (if any) are but your action is fairly low. Fret buzz which you can't hear through the amp is okay (as opposed to choking, when the action is too low and the string cannot vibrate freely because its fretting out). LPs like a fairly flat neck so aim for that. Raise the action a bit at the bridge if you find that some notes are choking - you need everything to ring out all the way up the neck. But as I said, ignore the buzz if it's just buzz.
 

PierM

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I use your same settings, but its extremely rare to go that low on a brand new Gibson, without an extra pass of fret dress. Guitars are being Pleked with much more relief and higher action, so its hard to get no buzz when going that flat and low. Then it also depends what and how you play (forces you put on fingers and picking)
 

Subterfuge

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Hello

I am just wondering if this is too low or too high as I have no idea what the factory standard set up is.

Neck Relief (capo on 1st fret, fretted at 15th fret, measured at 8th fret with feeler gauge):
.004" / .102mm

String Height (at 12th fret, no capo)
Low E String: .060" / 1.5mm
High E String: .040" / 1.0mm

Nut Action( no capo, measured at first fret with feeler gauge)
Low E String: .019" / .483mm
High E String: .006 / .051mm


I have some string buzz but it is hardly noticible through the amp and very noticable un-amped.

Not sure if I should set more relief and higher action as I want the action as low as possible ?

Thanks
if your ok with this set-up I'd say quit while you're ahead, I don't think you'll get much action lower than this
 

Robus

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I think your neck could use more relief. Aim for .008 and see how that feels.

I don't understand why Gibson uses nonsense phrases like "the thickness of a sheet of paper" instead of providing proper specs the way Fender does.
 

Subterfuge

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my set up has always been the same, I never change it, just keep it constant, 3/64 (0.045) on the High E and 4/64 (0.060) on the low E, CAPO on the first fret, measure at the 15th, remove CAPO and re-check at 12th fret. I tried 5/64 (0.075) on the low E but that felt totally too high, 0.060 feel perfect to me. Neck relief using CAPO on 1st, fretted at 15th, measured at 8th is about 0.008 to 0.009 which for me is kind of high, I used to keep it around 0.004 but I'm just getting too lazy to do those adjustments now, if it creeps up to 0.010 or 0.012 I'd bring it down, but for the sake of adjusting from 8 to 4 too lazy, plus with the change of seasons coming I figure the wood will change and I'll end up having to adjust it regardless .. this is the first weekend since last OCT that it is actually warm enough to keep the windows open so I'm giving her lot's of fresh air .. LOL
 

dc007

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I don't worry about the string height at the 12th fret. I just set the bridge height where I want it....what feels right. I do keep my neck relief at or around .008. So if the action does not feel 'right' I pull out the feeler gauge.
 

Subterfuge

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I've not monkeyed too much with the guitar seeing how it was manufactured Nov, 2017. In Dan Erlewine's book Guitar Player Repair Guide he advises using a Precision Straight Edge for measuring neck relief, an 18" for measuring the overall board and a 12" for measuring actual neck relief between 1st to 11th fret. Between the 11th fret and end of fretboard the neck is supposed to measure essentially flat +/- 0.000". I have all the tools, I was a machinist before I retired, just for curiosity I'll try and get the entire board dead flat and then introduce controlled relief halfway between nut and neck/body joint. Then set my bridge/string height. ..You've got me curious now how low I can go with my action ...
 

Classicplayer

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Having too low an action can result it a poor tone from the guitar. I measure gap at the 7th. fret on the 6th. string after a capo placed at the 1st. and fret the string depressed at the body joint. Somewhere between .009 and .010 is my goal. I made a home made set of gauges by using various gauges of plain unwound guitar string. Cut them about 3/4” long and attach pieces of Scotch tape at the end with the the appropriate gauge written on each. I put them in a small envelope and store that in the pocket of guitar case.

When I get the action to,where I want it, I go on to play notes on the unwound strings starting at the 14th. fret and make sure they all ring out and clearly all the way up. If they don't, I raise the bridge slightly on that side only to correct this. It usually means only a very slight tweak upwards with the thumbwheel.


Classicplayer
 

Subterfuge

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I bought the guitar in Dec 2017, never taken any measurements until this morning. The gap between the top of the first fret and the underside of both E strings (String Height At Nut ??) are 0.020" low E and 0.009" on the high E. If I depress the 3rd fret on the High E string there is absolutely no clearance between the string and the first fret, I can't even fit a 0.001" feeler gauge in there. I read that no clearance is a no-no. I don't know what this measurement means, the guitar plays just fine and I have no complaints about it
 

Subterfuge

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ok cool .. what I'm finding confusing is the internet lingo; for example " start out by getting the neck dead straight", yesterday I fabricated a jig to 100% support my neck along it's entire length and laid a Starrett 18" Precision StaightEdge (tolerance +/- two ten-thousandths of an inch over it's 18" span) on the board between D and G string. I could not pass a 0.003" feeler gauge under the 1st and 20th, 21st and 22nd frets. So basically this shows mostly the entire board is curved at present, obviously with the most curve around the 6th to 9th frets, approx. 0.008". Now when they say to get the neck "dead straight" as a starting point, are they talking 0.000" clearance under all frets from 1st to 22nd ?? that's the confusing part ... trying to get a clear definition ?
 

Roxy13

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I have all my singlecuts at 0.004" neck relief. But, it's a personal thing and some like more relief and some like even less.
 

Roxy13

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Dead straight would be evident using a notched rule and not seeing any daylight where it touches the fretboard between frets from beginning to end.
 

Robus

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Why would you want to do that? The neck is designed to have relief. It's not hard. String it up, measure relief, adjust as necessary.
 

scozz

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I am very finicky about my action @Gentle Jesus. I like it as low as possible. I have small hands with skinny fingers so it’s much more comfortable playing to have it low.

Also I’m not suffering any tone loss.

My relief on all my Gibson’s is set at .004

My action is .793, (2/64), on the 12th fret...high E...and 1.190, (3/64) low E.

There’s no way to get these kind of numbers without a proper fret leveling. I’ve been doing fret leveling for about 20 years.

One of the first things I do when I get a new guitar, (new or used) is a fret leveling. They ALWAYS need it.
 

Gar

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I never measue the neck relief or the action with a ruler. I adjust relief by feel with the guitar in playing position. I set the height of the bridge this way too, just slacken the strings, adjust and retune. I then adjust intonation with a tuner, still in playing position.
I do this on all my guitars with various string guages. I don't know what I have to gain by actually measuring but I have slow ape like hands that can barely feel the difference between 11s and 10s on my Les Paul. All I'm saying is that if you're not really very techy then take it to a pro and get fret level and adjusted as low as possible. If you just want it to play good without buzzing just use my close enough for rock n roll method until it doesn't buzz. In a nut shell if it buzzes make a small adjustment until it doesn't.
 

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