My (first) Build Journal

pshupe

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View attachment 515803
You can see the circled area drops down more than normal
I would be more concerned about "neck plane" than the carve at the switch. You do realize the fret board sits on the maple cap in that area? If it drops at all you will have a gap under your fret board. An option may be to route out a flat area under the fret board and put in a maple shim. It will be noticeable from the bass side of those upper frets on top of the body though.

Cheers Peter.
 

Sinky10

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It is an excellent point. I haven't properly sorted it in my head yet. I've got the plane more or less the same right across, but I had to reduce the angle, so I'm nowhere near 4°. I'm therefore going to have to add some relief to the neck joint itself.

My brain can't handle this!!
 

pshupe

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It looks like there is a scoop in the maple beside the neck mortise on the bass side. It needs to follow the neck angle and be flush with the under side of the fret board in that area.

Capture.JPG



Capture.JPG


Cheers Peter.
 

Sinky10

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That's the binding on. I found it almost as nerve wracking as watching Scotland beat England at Twickenham on Saturday!

There was quite a bit of glue spill as it was runny. Hopefully that won't come back to haunt me and I can just sand it away?

Glad that is done.
 

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Sinky10

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Overall reasonably happy with the results. Can't believe I didn't put tape around the edges to protect from glue spill, so that's a learning point.

There is a gap between the bottom of the binding channel and the binding where it rode up inside the horn. What's my solution here? Build up a nice thick paste of binding/acetone and fill it with that?


IMG_20210209_122849_compress55.jpg
IMG_20210209_122840_compress14.jpg
 

pshupe

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12th inlay in the 9th route. DOAH! Looks nice and tight though. What's the plan to fix this?

Cheers Peter.
 

Sinky10

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12th inlay in the 9th route. DOAH! Looks nice and tight though. What's the plan to fix this?

Cheers Peter.
It might be unsaveable, but I'll give it a try. First job is to get it out, which will be no mean feat. Then put the correct one in and fill with the collected rosewood dust. I had planned to stain the fingerboard darker in any case, so it may work. But I'm happy to accept that it was one gin too many and a huge learning opportunity, and start again.

This is the way.
 

nuance97

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is there now (or was there) extra unslotted wood beyond the last fret slot? Some come extra long. You could rout out between those two slots and glue in a chunk the off cut from beyond the slots? It would be tricky, but would also be invisible if done properly.... that’s the only way I see saving this board honestly. Trying to fill it with rosewood dust will never look like anything but a train wreck IMO
3E9E32C1-39F5-4605-A787-67963C2A2556.jpeg
 

Sinky10

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is there now (or was there) extra unslotted wood beyond the last fret slot? Some come extra long. You could rout out between those two slots and glue in a chunk the off cut from beyond the slots? It would be tricky, but would also be invisible if done properly.... that’s the only way I see saving this board honestly. Trying to fill it with rosewood dust will never look like anything but a train wreck IMO
View attachment 520854
That's a good idea and yes it did come with extra length. Not sure my skills/tools would be up to that, but I'll give it a crack. Thanks!

And if it doesn't work I'll try to get all the inlays out and then it is just the fretboard/time I've wasted. From memory the MOP was more expensive than the fretboard.
 

nuance97

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That's a good idea and yes it did come with extra length. Not sure my skills/tools would be up to that, but I'll give it a crack. Thanks!

And if it doesn't work I'll try to get all the inlays out and then it is just the fretboard/time I've wasted. From memory the MOP was more expensive than the fretboard.
Here is how I would go about it
91A73E58-ACE1-44CF-9C23-4E6EB9B98B8A.jpeg

your fretboard is sitting on your bench sandwiched in between 2 pieces of 1/4” MDF or plywood. Use two stiff rulers or straight edges (whatever you have around that’s flat and stiff) as rails for your Dremel base to ride on. Route maybe .13-.15” (1/2 way or so). Then you’ll have to thin from the underside of your donor chunk of rosewood retaining the 12” radius on top leaving it slightly thicker than your pocket- say .16” or so, and once it’s glued between the slots use your radius block to level it with the rest of the board
 

Sinky10

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Thanks. Having checked the receipt I remembered that the inlays were nitrate cellulose, so I couldn't do the solder trick. I tried to salvage them but wrecked both the fretboard and the inlays.

Expensive mistake!
 

Shea

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Thanks. Having checked the receipt I remembered that the inlays were nitrate cellulose, so I couldn't do the solder trick. I tried to salvage them but wrecked both the fretboard and the inlays.

Expensive mistake!
I'm Curious, Did you ruin the inlays with a heat gun? By catching them on fire? Like I did once... I ended up building a whole new fretboard because it bowed and destroyed it while trying to take it off. All the inlays went up in flames like a fuse does when you light it. It was "kinda" cool. It turned it into clock art.
 

Sinky10

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I've made some good neck progress in the last few weeks. Can anyone tell me, does the nut sit on the neck itself, between the end of the fretboard and the start of the headstock veneer? I've got the Bartlett plans, but that bit doesn't seem clear to me.

It shows the nut and sizing etc,but not where it is glued to.

Thanks
 

nuance97

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I've made some good neck progress in the last few weeks. Can anyone tell me, does the nut sit on the neck itself, between the end of the fretboard and the start of the headstock veneer? I've got the Bartlett plans, but that bit doesn't seem clear to me.

It shows the nut and sizing etc,but not where it is glued to.

Thanks
Yeah you leave a 3/16” space in between the fingerboard and the headstock angle. The veneer of the headstock on one side and the board on the other will “capture” the nut
 

Sinky10

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Yeah you leave a 3/16” space in between the fingerboard and the headstock angle. The veneer of the headstock on one side and the board on the other will “capture” the nut
Perfect, thank you for quick answer
 


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