My (first) Build Journal

Wood Butcher

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I've ordered the Bartlett plans this weekend help me with the neck. Thanks for the tip.

@nuance97 I've also reamed out that control knob hole and it does look much better. Trying a few different filling methods in scrap maple as well. Think it will be OK.

Thanks everyone for the help, advice and encouragement. This place truly is what a specialist subject forum should be!
If it were me, Id be trying to patch those holes by gluing a sliver of maple with the same grain orientation over the chipped out areas and then blending it by sanding. I think that will be less noticeable than any "filler" you try. Filler will always stick out like a sore thumb imo.
 

Kennoyce

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If it were me, Id be trying to patch those holes by gluing a sliver of maple with the same grain orientation over the chipped out areas and then blending it by sanding. I think that will be less noticeable than any "filler" you try. Filler will always stick out like a sore thumb imo.
I agree that filler will usually stand out like a sore thumb, but in cases where the filler is completely covered by a control knob, I don't think it will be too noticeable!
 

Sinky10

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If it were me, Id be trying to patch those holes by gluing a sliver of maple with the same grain orientation over the chipped out areas and then blending it by sanding. I think that will be less noticeable than any "filler" you try. Filler will always stick out like a sore thumb imo.
That's a great shout!
 

Sinky10

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can anyone clarify for me please (whilst I await the Bartlett plans)?

The neck mortise: width and length are in the drawings by exNihilio and the gang. However, what depth should it go?

Or is it easier to say how much mahogany is left at the bottom at start of mortise.

Thanks!
 

Sinky10

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Been a while since I have posted for a few reasons. One was that I built a PRS style guitar as a surprise Christmas present for someone, so that took me away from my beloved LP build.

I have also taken on a 'commission', with a friend asking me to build him an LP as well.

His style would curl the hair of my fellow forum members, and he wants a pink burst finish with Transformers (as an Optimus Prime) inlays! Not my style but will be lots of fun building a replica of the original alongside a this more funky version.

I've got the mahogany body of (we'll call it Optimus) Optimus ready for the top, and it is a seriously heavy piece of wood. I'm going to be quite aggressive with the weight relief. As it stands it weighs 6lb 15oz (over 3kgs), before the top is on!

Interested to see how much I can reduce it by with the weight relief. You can see my plan on the photo (hopefully).
 

Sinky10

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It worked. I plan to remove all the areas with diagonal lines. Anyone know what minimum thickness of mahogany I should leave at the bottom of each weight relief cavity?
 

failsafe306

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It worked. I plan to remove all the areas with diagonal lines. Anyone know what minimum thickness of mahogany I should leave at the bottom of each weight relief cavity?
Just a wild guess as I’ve never done a chambered guitar, but I’d probably leave at least 1/4”-3/8”?
 

sd396

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I've made an absolute arse of drilling holes for the knobs. Came in from behind and didn't stop in time. Photos below show the damage.

The knobs will obviously hide most of the damage but maybe not all of it.

Should I fill the damage and if so View attachment 497426 What's the best filler for maple?
If it was me I would use medium CA glue to fill and sand to level. Make sure the glue dries clear. After you spray your sealer, color and clear coats the chips will be virtually invisible. Any filler or patches will always show a glue line.
Of course however you deal with it you won't notice it under the knobs.
 

emoney

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You can take it much thinner than you think. 1/4" is plenty wood. Don't forget, however, to leave in the supporting areas where the tailpiece posts will go, end strap buttons, etc. etc.

Take out all you can because a heavy guitar usually stays in the closet!
 

pshupe

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That doesn't seem to be that heavy to me.
Gibson weight relief_3d.JPG


A solid mahogany body that is right at 3 lbs/b.f. should be just less than 6 lbs or so. For a 7 lb body you should be able to get it down to just under 5 lbs. This would be equal to a solid body with wood that weighs 2.6 lbs/b.f. which would be considered a pretty light body blank.

Cheers Peter.
 

jeff.longino

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If you are doing it right you will spend more time on the templates than the guitar.....now i'll keep telling myself that and try to do it. Templates and jigs are everything. I just made a jig to size/taper fretboards. Always some new one needed for some reason it seems.
 
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Sinky10

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That doesn't seem to be that heavy to me.
View attachment 510239

A solid mahogany body that is right at 3 lbs/b.f. should be just less than 6 lbs or so. For a 7 lb body you should be able to get it down to just under 5 lbs. This would be equal to a solid body with wood that weighs 2.6 lbs/b.f. which would be considered a pretty light body blank.

Cheers Peter.
Brilliant. I've made a start, will hopefully finish today and then check the results.

Not pretty work, but effective.
 

Sinky10

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If you are doing it right you will spend more time on the templates than the guitar.....now i'll keep telling myself that and try to do it. Templates and jigs are everything. I just made a jig to size/taper fretboards. Always some new one needed for some reason it seems.
Agreed. As this is number 2 I already have the templates, which I spent an enormous amount of time on. Haven't started the neck templates yet though.
 

Sinky10

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Still a bit of smoothing out to do, but already it is down to 4lbs 7oz, which is a reduction of 2lb 8oz. I'm delighted with that.

This will not be a heavy guitar, which was my desire. It is being shipped to Dublin (from Scotland) and will be used predominantly by kids, so a big slab was not what we wanted.
IMG_20210109_144516_compress49.jpg
 
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Sinky10

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OK I have now 'caught up' with the second LP, so both are more or less at same stage. Had a disaster when routing the neck plane in that the router bit came loose and gouged out wood where I didn't want to! Couldn't believe it. Lesson learned...

I think I've managed to save the guitar by adjusting the curve and deviating for historic correct, which doesn't really matter for his guitar as he's not fussed. The area around the switch is more depressed that it would normally be.

The part of this build that I was really worried about as a first timer was the binding channel, which I tackled yesterday. Both went smoothly using the Stew Mac router bit for the Dremel. Lovely stuff.

Next up binding and then I'll cut neck cavity on mine. Waiting on a. Japanese saw arriving which will allow me to start cutting the necks out of the blank. I don't have a bandsaw, so I'm going to have to do it by hand. Not the end od the world...this is all about the journey, not the destination...
 

Sinky10

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IMG_20210130_150000_compress91~2.jpg

You can see the circled area drops down more than normal
 


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