My 1st Guitar Build: A Les Paul... (duh)!

nuance97

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nuance97

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I don't know what that means, but okay! I assume it's good. :thumb:
 

lowatter

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Nice gold top. Looks like a happy camper right there.
 
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anthagio

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May be it is just me but I cannot see the pictures. When I try to open them in a new tab (by right clicking and select "open image in new tab" in chrome) it says "You do not have permission to view media within this album."
 

nuance97

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Does anybody know how to change the privacy setting on an MLP album??



EDIT: I think I got it figured out. Hopefully y’all can see my pics now

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dickjonesify

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This thread is so great. Love all the jigs. I need to step up my jig game for my next build :oops:

Thanks for taking the time to replace the pics.
 

Sinky10

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Drill out control cavity/toggle waste with drill press and forstner bit.
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then clamp template to it.
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Looks good.
Next template
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Looks good. Definitely good to have full body outline on each template. There is no problem lining everything up. It's foolproof.

Sand out router marks

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Round over with 3/16" round over bit.
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Remember that tear out?
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You know I never even noticed taht the underneath edge was rounded. Is this accurate for '59 Standard?
If so what is the exact router bit to use? Thanks
 

Sinky10

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Is there a maximum thickness that the cavity can be at the bottom? I haven't yet routed the angled plane inside my controls cavity yet, and was wondering if this is absolutely necessary or necessary to be historically accurate? Thanks
 

Wallied

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You know I never even noticed taht the underneath edge was rounded. Is this accurate for '59 Standard?
If so what is the exact router bit to use? Thanks
I assume you mean the back roundover. If so, then 3/16 is the correct one. For the truly anally retentive, it should be altered slightly by sanding afterwards. I think Tom Bartlett's build includes this, as does Gil Yaron's. That's minor, though.
Is there a maximum thickness that the cavity can be at the bottom? I haven't yet routed the angled plane inside my controls cavity yet, and was wondering if this is absolutely necessary or necessary to be historically accurate? Thanks
To be "historically correct", yes, it needs to be there. My Bartlett plan calls for 7.64 mm thickness, which would be around 5/16" to you imperial guys. As for functional maximum without regard to vintage correctness, as long as the pot protrudes through the top enough to function, you're good. So for short pots, somewhere around 8mm is probably the absolute maximum, which is just a hair thicker than what the aforementioned plan calls for. For long shaft it's like 17mm or something, but those are not vintage correct.

Regards, Will
 

Sinky10

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I assume you mean the back roundover. If so, then 3/16 is the correct one. For the truly anally retentive, it should be altered slightly by sanding afterwards. I think Tom Bartlett's build includes this, as does Gil Yaron's. That's minor, though.

To be "historically correct", yes, it needs to be there. My Bartlett plan calls for 7.64 mm thickness, which would be around 5/16" to you imperial guys. As for functional maximum without regard to vintage correctness, as long as the pot protrudes through the top enough to function, you're good. So for short pots, somewhere around 8mm is probably the absolute maximum, which is just a hair thicker than what the aforementioned plan calls for. For long shaft it's like 17mm or something, but those are not vintage correct.

Regards, Will
Thanks Will. I'm in the UK so appreciate the mm sizing! Spend half my time these converting inches on Google!
 

pshupe

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Thanks Will. I'm in the UK so appreciate the mm sizing! Spend half my time these converting inches on Google!

I guess you like the Bartlett plans then? ;-) I made a set for myself in inches. Although we are in Canada most things of guitar scale I think of in inches. Most of the things we purchase here come from the USA, so inches are all they understand, mostly.

Cheers Peter.
 

nuance97

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@Sinky10 correct on the 3/16” roundover

The control cavity needs to be routed to the level of the maple. You can leave a whisper of mahogany if you like that look or route it completely away. There are many examples both ways.

The angled route is a must for me although some skip this step and drill down with forstner bits. There are a few examples of vintage Gibsons like this. In fact all left-handed ones were. I suppose Gibson didn’t make a jig for left hand bodies to make the cut
 

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