Murphy Lab Heavy Aged Pics

calieng

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Lovely guitar that calieng (and Mr 6 Strings!) - happy days!!!

i plummed for a Light Aged, so in between the two - Im also a sucker for a plain top so...

Very nice! Very authentic looking. I might consider aging the bridge and stop bar a bit more. I know an easy way to do that if you are interested. Thanks.
 

tomajoha

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Very nice! Very authentic looking. I might consider aging the bridge and stop bar a bit more. I know an easy way to do that if you are interested. Thanks.
Thanks calieng - any advice welcome :)
 

calieng

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If you want to oxidize nickel parts a little more you can aged them with 1M HCL vapor (1 molar hydrochloric acid).


I use a medium size ziplock bag. Puff it up so there is air inside and put the parts in along with a Q-tip soaked in the acid. Don't let the Q-tip touch the parts. Then seal the bag and let sit for 15 minutes or so.

Repeat as needed.

You do not want a lot of acid vapor so using a soaked Q-tip or gun bore swab lets you keep it to a small amount. You want the air inside the bag with the acid vapor to just gently oxidize the outer nickel finish without corroding the base metal. And you want a small container like a zip lock bag or small margarine tub otherwise the vapor will not be strong enough in a larger container. A Q-tip or gun bore swab gives you something to safely hold onto as you dip the end in the HCL solution as opposed to soaking a small cloth. Also do not put your face near the bag when first opening it as some acid vapor will escape.

Others have poured the HCL solution in a container and suspended parts above it but this does not let you minimize the oxidation and can be risky if you spill the acid or accidentally drop the parts in.

NOTE: Although 1M HCL is fairly weak you should always wear safety glasses and gloves when working with acids. It is about equivalent to swimming pool chemicals in strength. I actually use Muriatic Acid which is 10X stronger but I have done it many times. Not recommending for first time use. 1M HCL is 3.6% solution and Muriatic is about 31% HCL.
 
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mjross

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Just wanted to share some pics for those interested in this model. A big thank you to those friends who have been buying my other gear to allow me to order this one and a thank you to Willcutt's for a good deal.

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Very nice, very nice! Some serious convincing aging there, congrats! There was a time when I didn’t get the relic thing. That has changed considerably. I’m really diggin them these days. Seem to play mine more and more all the time. They just feel right!
 
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mudface

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Is this really worth the money?

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Seems like the real deal would be to buy a real vintage DC Jr.....but what do I know.
 

judson

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If you want to oxidize nickel parts a little more you can aged them with 1M HCL vapor (1 molar hydrochloric acid).


I use a medium size ziplock bag. Puff it up so there is air inside and put the parts in along with a Q-tip soaked in the acid. Don't let the Q-tip touch the parts. Then seal the bag and let sit for 15 minutes or so.

Repeat as needed.

You do not want a lot of acid vapor so using a soaked Q-tip or gun bore swab lets you keep it to a small amount. You want the air inside the bag with the acid vapor to just gently oxidize the outer nickel finish without corroding the base metal. And you want a small container like a zip lock bag or small margarine tub otherwise the vapor will not be strong enough in a larger container. A Q-tip or gun bore swab gives you something to safely hold onto as you dip the end in the HCL solution as opposed to soaking a small cloth. Also do not put your face near the bag when first opening it as some acid vapor will escape.

Others have poured the HCL solution in a container and suspended parts above it but this does not let you minimize the oxidation and can be risky if you spill the acid or accidentally drop the parts in.

NOTE: Although 1M HCL is fairly weak you should always wear safety glasses and gloves when working with acids. It is about equivalent to swimming pool chemicals in strength. I actually use Muriatic Acid which is 10X stronger but I have done it many times. Not recommending for first time use. 1M HCL is 3.6% solution and Muriatic is about 31% HCL.
done the muratic acid trip with suspended parts in a sealed container......wear a mask and do it OUTSIDE , dont breathe that crap at all....turned out ok for my use but maybe would like to find a less hazardous way...heard something about oven cleaner? :dunno:
 

calieng

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done the muratic acid trip with suspended parts in a sealed container......wear a mask and do it OUTSIDE , dont breathe that crap at all....turned out ok for my use but maybe would like to find a less hazardous way...heard something about oven cleaner? :dunno:
Stick with HCL for the most realistic oxidation. The weak 1M HCL solution is very safe and only may be a little frustrating because it can take a few times to get the effect you want as it is a very weak acid. Other things like vinegar turn parts black etc. and are not realistic.

I forgot to mention to clean the parts with a little soap and water to remove any oil residue. That will help the process go quicker with better result.
 

Patek

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I like the front but I’m not sure on the back. It looks like fresh wood under where they’ve broken the lacquer, seems a common problem for Gibson relic work. HM would dirty it up so it looked worn rather than chipped/peeled off recently
 

tomajoha

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If you want to oxidize nickel parts a little more you can aged them with 1M HCL vapor (1 molar hydrochloric acid).


I use a medium size ziplock bag. Puff it up so there is air inside and put the parts in along with a Q-tip soaked in the acid. Don't let the Q-tip touch the parts. Then seal the bag and let sit for 15 minutes or so.

Repeat as needed.

You do not want a lot of acid vapor so using a soaked Q-tip or gun bore swab lets you keep it to a small amount. You want the air inside the bag with the acid vapor to just gently oxidize the outer nickel finish without corroding the base metal. And you want a small container like a zip lock bag or small margarine tub otherwise the vapor will not be strong enough in a larger container. A Q-tip or gun bore swab gives you something to safely hold onto as you dip the end in the HCL solution as opposed to soaking a small cloth. Also do not put your face near the bag when first opening it as some acid vapor will escape.

Others have poured the HCL solution in a container and suspended parts above it but this does not let you minimize the oxidation and can be risky if you spill the acid or accidentally drop the parts in.

NOTE: Although 1M HCL is fairly weak you should always wear safety glasses and gloves when working with acids. It is about equivalent to swimming pool chemicals in strength. I actually use Muriatic Acid which is 10X stronger but I have done it many times. Not recommending for first time use. 1M HCL is 3.6% solution and Muriatic is about 31% HCL.
Thank you my friend, I’ll give it a whirl
 

calieng

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Thank you my friend, I’ll give it a whirl
If you have some other nickel part like another bridge or tuner you may want to do a test run with that before you do the parts on your guitar just to get an idea of how long to leave them exposed to the acid vapor to get the effect you like.

Let us know how it works out.
 

calieng

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I like the front but I’m not sure on the back. It looks like fresh wood under where they’ve broken the lacquer, seems a common problem for Gibson relic work. HM would dirty it up so it looked worn rather than chipped/peeled off recently
I guess you don't really know about Murphy Lab. To get the back spot darkened you need to buy the Ultra Heavy Aged for another $4k....huh!
 

blouie

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beautiful! I have an ultra light Murphy lab ‘59 in factory burst, the guitar is fantastic sounding and playing however I noticed a couple spots where the finish chipped off on the inside of the horn and another spot on the edge, are you experiencing any chipping on yours?
How does "ultra light" differ from VOS? I have a VOS and the only thing I can see is that the finish is dull (like someone took some steel wool lightly to it and the metals are slightly rusted).
 

tomajoha

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How does "ultra light" differ from VOS? I have a VOS and the only thing I can see is that the finish is dull (like someone took some steel wool lightly to it and the metals are slightly rusted).
Different nitro mix, light lacquer checking and rolled binding. The metal parts are pretty much the same though I believe.
 

blouie

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Different nitro mix, light lacquer checking and rolled binding. The metal parts are pretty much the same though I believe.
Thank you!

I haven't been a fan of anything aged; I always imagined checking was a bunch of straight lines made with a razor blade (and I'm certain that is largely what I've seen). However, seeing this!!! This is INCREDIBLE and somehow beautiful! I still wonder how this guitar will look in 40+ years.
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Brek

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I went for the ultra light aged for that very reason, didn’t want it all falling off. Lol.
 

voices

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After I saw the prototypes in Gibson's Reverb store, I suggested Gibson ( I have a friend in the higher ups who works there) should take advice from Historic Makeovers on how to properly relic. It did not go over smoothly. They DID change the nitro and are offering different levels of aging. Some of the early stuff I saw was astounding in detail, craftsmanship, and very convincing. I just wonder if they can maintain that level. They are so bombed with orders for these Murphy Lab guitars they can't keep up with demand at this time.
 

calieng

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After I saw the prototypes in Gibson's Reverb store, I suggested Gibson ( I have a friend in the higher ups who works there) should take advice from Historic Makeovers on how to properly relic. It did not go over smoothly. They DID change the nitro and are offering different levels of aging. Some of the early stuff I saw was astounding in detail, craftsmanship, and very convincing. I just wonder if they can maintain that level. They are so bombed with orders for these Murphy Lab guitars they can't keep up with demand at this time.
I hate to be negative but I doubt they keep this up. As a buyer of several early True Historics I saw the wood quality decline by the end of the first quarter 2015. Still nice stuff but they usually bring out the best first. There will be of course many gems throughout the year - just need to pick the best you can find when you are ready to buy.

I have heard the same from dealers I have talked with recently - Gibson is swamped with orders and there will be a wait for more inventory. I should have grabbed the '64 ES-335 Block I was looking at a week ago but now may have to wait a bit.


You did not see many like this after first quarter 2015....

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voices

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I hate to be negative but I doubt they keep this up. As a buyer of several early True Historics I saw the wood quality decline by the end of the first quarter 2015. Still nice stuff but they usually bring out the best first. There will be of course many gems throughout the year - just need to pick the best you can find when you are ready to buy. I have heard the same form dealers I have talked with - Gibson is swamped with orders and there will be a wait for more inventory.
You needn't worry. Since the previous owner left, Gibson is now, finally, going in the right direction in all prospects. I don't think people will be disappointed.
 

calieng

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You needn't worry. Since the previous owner left, Gibson is now, finally, going in the right direction in all prospects. I don't think people will be disappointed.
Well I am blown away by the heavy aged models. A '54 Goldtop arrived from Fullers this morning. You could swear it has been played for 50 years or more... keep up the good work Gibson and Tom. I am having a Mojo overload...

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