- Nov 25, 2010
- Reaction score
ojh... well then... congrats... lol
Yes, my recipe for grain filler still includes linseed oil, but depending on which brand you are using, you may not need to. I use it to bind the powder sort of like a catalyst.Tom, question going back to before you did the grain filler. You did a coat of laquer on the mahogany before adding filler correct? Is that something new your doing? You didnt do that in your other '59 thread. Still adding the linseed oil?
Gloat pics................Can we get an update? Perhaps the raffle winner can come and gloat a bit?
Now I will turn my attention to the other end, and work on the truss rod nut cavity.
This is what it looks like now, with just the slot cut.
I carefully measure and mark the point at which I want to stop drilling.
And then I place this small spacer in the slot. This will get the cutter up off the bottom of the slot a little bit. This adds some strength to the headstock transition, but still offers good access to adjust the tussrod.
You can just barely see it sitting in there. It needs to be far enough back that it will not be damaged by the cutter.
Now I place the cutter in the slot with the pilot resting on the spacer:
I place a piece of maple over the pilot to hold it firmly against the spacer, and begin cutting..
I continue cutting until I reach the line I marked earlier.
And here it is all done.
Now all thats left to do it clean up the small amount of material left over from the previous task.
Again a sharp chisel is used.
And here it is all cleaned up.
In the second picture, you set a point from the nut line to stop drilling the 3/4" truss rod access hole. Can you tell me that distance, please? It doesn't seem to appear on any drawing I can access.
I calculate 13-14 mm, but I guess it may depend on the headstock overlay that is used, or made?
What is the official Gibson distance?