Luthier's Corner Plans / Templates Resource

Emacedo

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DoneOne actually did the neck drawing based off of a hand drawing I did, but it was one page of like 60. We didn’t need all 60 pages, and I only had the PDF myself (plus zero knowledge of CAD).
So I used some online tool to pull the one page, and that screwed up the scaling
Hi Daniel. Can you tell me if the angle of the box to make the holes for the pick ups is 4 or 4.5 degrees? I've seen videos and plans with both types of angles and I would like to know the most suitable one.
Thank you.
 

nuance97

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Hi Daniel. Can you tell me if the angle of the box to make the holes for the pick ups is 4 or 4.5 degrees? I've seen videos and plans with both types of angles and I would like to know the most suitable one.
Thank you.
I use 4 degrees. It is not critical...3.8...4...4.5; it really would be fine to use anything +/- .5 degrees from 4
 

Emacedo

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I use 4 degrees. It is not critical...3.8...4...4.5; it really would be fine to use anything +/- .5 degrees from 4
Ok.
Thank you Daniel. I am building mine with 4 degrees. it's getting good. I used Brazilian cedar, which is a Brazilian wood similar to Mahogany, (it is not the cedar of you, although the name is similar) but softer and lighter and very stable. I have some of this very old wood that is very dry. I sometimes use this wood to make classical guitar necks.
 

danigalapago

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Good Morning. Did you get the templates and jigs to make the box?
Eugenio.
Hey Eugenio, how are you?
I have all the materials for the box roughly cut, I’ll get more into details once the neck is glued to the body, as I want the guitar to fit tight inside the jig.

I already have a box jig for the neck & pickup planes, based out of @pshupe plans
FEE015F8-8453-40C9-89FE-AEAABC48F433.jpeg


As you can see, the build is already started.
I’ll start a new thread soon, as I don’t want to hijack this one. What do you think @nuance97 ?

thanks and have a great Saturday!

Dan
 

nuance97

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Hey Eugenio, how are you?
I have all the materials for the box roughly cut, I’ll get more into details once the neck is glued to the body, as I want the guitar to fit tight inside the jig.

I already have a box jig for the neck & pickup planes, based out of @pshupe plans
View attachment 479751

As you can see, the build is already started.
I’ll start a new thread soon, as I don’t want to hijack this one. What do you think @nuance97 ?

thanks and have a great Saturday!

Dan
Looks awesome man! :thumb:
 

Sinky10

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Thanks to everyone who contributed to this resource. I'm on a similar journey to many on this thread in that I've built a couple of custom guitars and now I'm hooked and want to build my first complete guitar 'from scratch'. This resource will be invaluable to me.

My choice of build is - in my opinion - the most beautiful guitar in the world (59 Les Paul).

Can any other UK builders out there recommend where to buy my honduran body blank and flame maple top? Obviously done plenty of Googling but if you know of a reliable vendor please let me know. Thanks!
 

nuance97

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One thing I will say to anyone who is about to use the version 2.0 plans...the secondary control route template is not quite right. You will have to make some adjustments to it too. I do not know when I will get the time to fix these things on the official plans and post a version 3.0 (it could be years!). That said, these are very easy fixes you can do.

View attachment 465071
I just just kept making the whole hole in the template bigger until the route worked properly. It was time consuming, but worked out great.
Okay now that I have finally had the chance to build a body with these plans I can address this:

Obviously I wasn’t present when Scott cut his secondary control angled route, but I suspect his issue was that he oriented the template flush around the perimeter. Because of the angles involved you have to offset the template like so:
E0CDFFC2-78DB-4D30-8CF3-E58A6A1B25AB.jpeg

D702AF01-5464-419E-AA77-5FC552D7B9F1.jpeg

this ^^ is underneath the side opposite the route


oh and while we are talking template I like that I added hinges to my current one. I can use the rest of the body as a clamping flap
A6B609E9-3B11-4F05-A7B2-7187A2CC1958.jpeg

When oriented like this it will leave you with the correct shape without modifying the template as he described
CF03FB54-D455-4399-81F9-D54F455F2E47.jpeg

9234B193-E18B-4C92-85AA-BFF8871B9B41.jpeg

A7E47D73-2DE7-413D-A948-55BC6C9602C7.jpeg

Ready to me finished off with a 1” spotface

832E922A-459A-49B6-AB66-AC3CE569F6FE.jpeg

Once I drill the holes and add the counterbores it’ll be a dead-ringer for a vintage cavity
A691FD9C-2C63-4C17-B522-BA476FE4E444.jpeg

see below ;)
DAAC1EE6-56A0-42D5-A62D-BB08BECFB8AF.jpeg


The really eagle-eyed viewer could probably guess what’s different in the back view of the whole body above than our plan. Can you spot it??
 
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danigalapago

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Hey @nuance97 , great info as usual!!
Are you using a drill press for the 1” counterbores? If so, how do you clamp the body at an angle? Thanks!!
 

nuance97

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Hey @nuance97 , great info as usual!!
Are you using a drill press for the 1” counterbores? If so, how do you clamp the body at an angle? Thanks!!
Yes a drill press. I just held it by hand. The topcarve ramps the body up at the proper angle
 

nuance97

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@danigalapago I’ll elaborate a bit with pics.
Step 1: drill out all through holes for pots and 3-way with a 13/64” drill bit (one size bigger than the 3/16” pilot for the counterbores)

Step 2: hold the body like so when counterboring for the pots (I’m pressing and holding very firmly with my left hand making sure the edge of the body is tight to the table)
00112087-A625-459A-8179-77E974FEF1B2.jpeg

a view from under so you can see the ramping effect
C1D86EA9-4D2C-4838-BF68-8C2060E9D2C1.jpeg


It was at this point I realized that the two volume pot holes needed to be enlarged slightly so the spotface would contact the cavity walls to make the proper “chew” marks. It’s impossible to know how big the holes were at the factory, but they were probably bigger than 13/64”?? Maybe

(This step ^^ is totally unnecessary to the functionality, but to those who are striving for absolute vintage accuracy it’s a must).

The final size of the pot holes should be something around .38-.39” so ream the holes as needed so long as you don’t exceed .39” holes

Step 4: the 3-way switch...you’ll need a 3/4” spotface for this one (which you probably already have for the trussrod access). Similarly the top carve creates the proper angle for you just put the pilot through the 7/32” pilot hole and bore until you kiss the maple like so:
2F1D89C1-8A98-4275-A001-E5FC3F9BD21B.jpeg

Then enlarge with a reamer or step drillbit to 1/2” for your through hole

That should make clear any confusion
 
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danigalapago

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Awesome, very well explained Dan, Crystal clear, thanks so much!!
Although I have to figure out a way to achieve the same results using a 1” forstner bit instead of a 1” counterbore bit, which I don’t have. I do have the truss rod access 3/16 pilot and 3/4 counterbore for the switch cavity.
 

nuance97

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Thanks for the additional detail, great stuff!

Btw, what's with all the plastic? Is there a "Dexter" situation going on there? :rofl:
My wife calls it my Dexter room...it’s to keep as much dust out of the rest of the house. It’s a small basement room
 

ExNihilo

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@danigalapago I’ll elaborate a bit with pics.
Step 1: drill out all through holes for pots and 3-way with a 7/32” drill bit (one size bigger than the 3/16” pilot for the counterbores)

Step 2: hold the body like so when counterboring for the pots (I’m pressing and holding very firmly with my left hand making sure the edge of the body is tight to the table)
View attachment 481780
a view from under so you can see the ramping effect
View attachment 481778

It was at this point I realized that the two volume pot holes needed to be enlarged slightly so the spotface would contact the cavity walls to make the proper “chew” marks. It’s impossible to know how big the holes were at the factory, but they were probably bigger than 7/32”?? Maybe

(This step ^^ is totally unnecessary to the functionality, but to those who are striving for absolute vintage accuracy it’s a must).

The final size of the pot holes should be something around .38-.39” so ream the holes as needed so long as you don’t exceed .39” holes

Step 4: the 3-way switch...you’ll need a 3/4” spotface for this one (which you probably already have for the trussrod access). Similarly the top carve creates the proper angle for you just put the pilot through the 7/32” pilot hole and bore until you kiss the maple like so:
View attachment 481779
Then enlarge with a reamer or step drillbit to 1/2” for your through hole

That should make clear any confusion
This is excellent stuff Daniel. I am very glad to hear that our templates are correct and that the difficulty I had was simply not getting it set up properly.

Your guitar is turning out awesome! One of the things that I noticed (which I think is funny) is that the grain pattern of your mahogany body I almost identical to mine! Haha!! That's cool.

BackTemplateLP.jpg
 

nuance97

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This is excellent stuff Daniel. I am very glad to hear that our templates are correct and that the difficulty I had was simply not getting it set up properly.

Your guitar is turning out awesome! One of the things that I noticed (which I think is funny) is that the grain pattern of your mahogany body I almost identical to mine! Haha!! That's cool.

View attachment 481897
In a perfect world I’d have known how to shift the cutout in the secondary control route template so that the template itself wouldn’t have to be offset, but I’m not smart enough to know precisely how much to shift it...but it does work as is
 

pshupe

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In a perfect world I’d have known how to shift the cutout in the secondary control route template so that the template itself wouldn’t have to be offset, but I’m not smart enough to know precisely how much to shift it...but it does work as is
That is the part that I have been putting off creating a fixture. I should be able to figure it out but I just have been procrastinating on it. Everything else I have figured out. It is exactly as you say though, if you can press the top carve to a flat surface then the route / counterbore should be correct. It should be easy to figure out in the 3d model. I'm not sure why I am procrastinating regarding that process. Once it's done I can use it on every LP style build.

Cheers Peter.
 


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