LP Build #2 (Eastern Maple Carved Top content)

[73Custom]

Hmmm.....I like to drill from the back side, through the control cavity to the tailpiece bushing. I'm less likely to screw up my beautiful flame maple top that way



Looks fantastic, BTW. Can't wait to see the clear!

i've tried drilling in that direction before. my chances of hitting the mark drilling from the control cavity is much more difficult.

i prefer the way i do it...

and thanks so much for the compliment... i think the clear is gonna be the icing on the cake

 

[bossman302]

and i do NOT recommend this, but it can be done. i recommend a drill press, but when i bought my little 9 inch bench top press i got in too much of a hurry and did not consider what they call throat depth (the distance between the bit and upright post of the press). well long story short, mine is not deep enough to reach these points on the guitar. so a used floor drill press is on my list of wanted tools... anyway, here is the hand drill i used. if you try this with a hand drill, take your time and ensure that you are drilling as close to vertical as possible. also, notice i use a brad point drill bit to keep it centered...

Just a tip to those that attempt to drill the holes with a hand drill. You can use a speed square to help aid in making sure the holes are as close to 90degrees as possible.

Lookin good

 

[73Custom]

Just a tip to those that attempt to drill the holes with a hand drill. You can use a speed square to help aid in making sure the holes are as close to 90degrees as possible.

Lookin good

thanks and thanks for the good tip...

 

[73Custom]

mock up is underway... as you can see i decided to use the pickguard. the mahogany will be brown grain filler with clear nitro over that....


woohoo, the sun is finally out again

time to get the bridge mocked up...

 

[monsterwalley]

Yeah, I like the pickguard on myself

 

[73Custom]

Yeah, I like the pickguard on myself

so to mount the bridge and find the correct location for intonation i set it up with the LOW E/HIGH E strings and tuned them up. I set the saddles to mid position and moved the bridge every so slightly until the tuning matched for the open string and fretted at the 12th fret... once that sweet spot was found. i marked the bridge and drilled it exactly yhe same way i drilled the stop tail...

then i mocked up the rest of the guitar and sat down to play acoustically to make sure it's a working guitar...

Ladies and Gentlemen, Boy and Girls, we have a playable, working guitar. And pretty damn nice one if I don't say so myself... There is a little bit of fret buzz that I am certain will be cleaned up with a fret level and truss rod tweak...

But over all I am really pleased up to this point. the neck is big and chunky like a 50's profile and has a nice feel to it... i really prefer a 60's neck, but i am pleased with this one and have no plans to change it...

here she is...

And my most recent addition, a white truss rod cover. haven't decided if i am using it or not... if not i will add a black one. the headstock will be black so the white contrast may look good. this will be decided after the headstock is sprayed...

 

[w666]

Nice....take the rest of the day off!

 

[bossman302]

She sure is a beaut You did a really nice job

 

[73Custom]

Nice....take the rest of the day off!

thanks and i have some stuff to do this evening, so i think i will knock off the guitar work for the rest of the night

She sure is a beaut You did a really nice job

thanks bossman !!!

 

[Gothika777]

When deciding where to put the bridge when u had it stringed up with the two E's, how did u keep the bridge there (bolts- wtf)????

You are right in saying u should drill the grounding wire channel through the tailpiece to the cavity, as the other way round would be harder since the tailpiece is a smaller target than the cavity.

 

[RAHAZ]

Looks great! When do you plan on starting the Clear coat?

 

[73Custom]

When deciding where to put the bridge when u had it stringed up with the two E's, how did u keep the bridge there (bolts- wtf)????

You are right in saying u should drill the grounding wire channel through the tailpiece to the cavity, as the other way round would be harder since the tailpiece is a smaller target than the cavity.

with the tension of the strings in tune the bridge will not move. i have it sitting on top of a couple of nuts about the height it would be when properly mounted. to move it you have to de-tune and loosen the strings quite a bit.

Looks great! When do you plan on starting the Clear coat?

thanks man...

clear coating will hopefully happen this upcoming weekend...

 

[Buzzedd]

Great job, really clean work.

Bill

 

[73Custom]

Great job, really clean work.

Bill

thanks Bill

 

[PoorMan]

brown filler,clear, and no guard.

+1. That top is far too nice to be covered with a pickguard.

Fantastic work, 73. When hit that thing with clear--POP!!!! Can't wait to see it.

 

[73Custom]

thanks Poorman....

The clear is gonna POP the flame for sure...

i've been playing her a little bit tonight. she sounds real nice acoustically... looking forward to the day i get to plug her into my Marshall

 

[w666]

Check this out....it was posted in another forum. Here's red and "natural" mahogany.

 

[73Custom]

Check this out....it was posted in another forum. Here's red and "natural" mahogany.

thanks...

that looks killer... it has me re-thinking the brown grain filler vs. clear filler now

 

[mono]

I think brown grain filler will look better as it adds to and describes the texture of the woodgrain. Clear filler will give you a flatter color but won't emphasise any pretty streaks or swirls in the grain.

 

[73Custom]

I think brown grain filler will look better as it adds to and describes the texture of the woodgrain. Clear filler will give you a flatter color but won't emphasise any pretty streaks or swirls in the grain.

that is exactly why i liked the look of the brown grain filler.

from a distance the back will look a little darker, but i think the brown grain filler is still the way to go...