Lose sustain with Aluminum tailpiece.

politenessman

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I can't speak for anyone else but when I look at guitars I'm more concerned with a good baseline of resonance and sustain of the instrument while unplugged, how it sounds while plugged in is down several steps on my importance ladder ;) From my experience if you can get an instrument to sing unplugged you'll have no problem when amplified. This includes LP's and cheapy guitars. When I got my trad + I liked it right off the bat but knew I could make it a bit better with a better bridge vs. bunk metal zamak Nashville bridge. It was my first LP what I couldn't live with was the bridge and TP fallling off on string changes and doing string changes one string at a time is bullshit...hence the primary reason for getting a locking ABR-1 w/raw brass saddles and tail piece studs/locks from Faber.

I'm from the opposite train of though here. I don't understand folks who pass up killer guitars based on pickups that come with the guitar as it can be changed cheaply and easily to whatever tone taste you care for.

+1
i look for a decent acoustic sound, also. the main thing is always playability. looks play a big part. would you buy a new car that ran good but was really ugly?
 

MiniB

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+1
i look for a decent acoustic sound, also. the main thing is always playability. looks play a big part. would you buy a new car that ran good but was really ugly?
+2 on playability being king...your ideal action, no dead spots or awkward buzzes, stability (very important) in that it won't go out of tune easily or loose the tensions setting on the neck. Ergonomics and response/feedback, really....the better and more natural it feels, the less you'll be working against and the better you will play...and the better it will sound plugged and unplugged. By that point, unless the pickup is just the wrong type/output for your tastes (like an EMG or super-high output when you prefer a PAF-type), changing pickups are more about fine-tuning than the actual identity of the guitar's sound.

That being said, I do have a 'go-to' setup in terms of electronics for HB-wquipped guitars because there's something about them in particular I like. For me it's a set of Duncan Antiquities with a full-strength mad in the bridge, and an RS pots/caps kit. But I also chalk that up to a certain degree of 'ergonomics', audio-wise, as there's a response in them that I've become more acclimated to...as different guitars will still sound unique from each other even with the some kinds of pickups.
 

Latearrival

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It was my first LP what I couldn't live with was the bridge and TP fallling off on string changes and doing string changes one string at a time is bullshit....
Yes, it is...and unnecessary too!

Just leave one string on (I leave bottom "E" on), until you put the new ones on, and there's no issue!

I have to say that having to leave one string on whlist re-stinging a Les Paul, until the new ones are on - is way, way down the list of problems that life can throw at me!!!
 

MiniB

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Or just put pieces of masking tape over the ends to hold it on until your'e done with one string.
 

Shawn Lutz

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Yes, it is...and unnecessary too!

Just leave one string on (I leave bottom "E" on), until you put the new ones on, and there's no issue!

I have to say that having to leave one string on whlist re-stinging a Les Paul, until the new ones are on - is way, way down the list of problems that life can throw at me!!!
Cleaning the lubing the fretboard is much easier when no strings are on to me. All six come off on any guitar I own when changing strings ;)
 

Side Burns

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Has anyone looked into the density and sound velocity of Aluminum, Brass, Zink, Titanium, and Steel? Here's a list from high to low sound velocity.

Aluminum
Titanium
Steel
Brass
Zink

When I look at the list it looks like it can be a list of brightest to darkest. I like tinkering, modding, and benchmarking. Who ever has experience in swapping the material of their tail, chime in.

(Reference)
http://www.rfcafe.com/references/general/velocity-sound-media.htm
 

Jakeislove

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I experienced the biggest change with the Callaham bridge. Eventually went with Retrospec bushings/studs and Pigtail tailpiece. I felt the Pigtail balanced things out a bit but after making so many changes it's really difficult to say with any certainty.

I love how the guitar sounds and probably won't change anything else.
 

joesatch

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I've since replaced the Callaham bridge with a Faber with Titanium saddles. Very happy now. The Faber saddles are rock solid
 

SirPsycho

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Many years ago I had a 95 Classic Premium Plus Les Paul. I bought a Gotoh Alu TP and changed it but after that the guitar sounded "thinner" and had lost it's "balls" so I changed back to the heavy orig. Chrom TP.
 

Tonemeister

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Tailpiece with the Faber locking studs made the difference. At this point the weak spot is at the bridge the Callahan saddles are loose and I had a he'll of a time just getting them to rest flat. Tailpiece is definitely worth it.
Isn't the Faber tailpiece aluminum? Mine is. FWIW I've heard the Faber Titanium saddles will seriously decrease the low end. Also I'm trying to figure out your method of comparison here. You are saying the the aluminum tailpiece robbed sustain when you had a bridge with loose saddles or whatever. Maybe give the aluminum another shot now that you've sorted out the bridge?
 

joesatch

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I have a Callaham tailpiece on it. It's machined steel, much better than the aluminum one. tone is thicker , i can hear a difference. I threw the aluminum one on my other Paul. Titanium did nothing adverse to the low end.
 


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