Looking for 90db or so 10" & 12" low efficiency speakers

[Wrench66]

Yes, 93 db measured at one watt at one meter from the speaker cone.

 

[cherrysunburst00]

Yes, 93 db measured at one watt at one meter from the speaker cone.

I forgot about the "one meter" What I usually do is place a db meter about as far as I am from the cabinet and set the volume accordingly.

 

[Wrench66]

I use a sound meter app on my phone just to get a quantifiable idea of how loud it is in the room. It is in no way scientific or accurate, but it allows me to put a number on what I think is a comfortable playing volume. For me, it is 95db or so in the room. Thats the volume of the 5F1 dimed through its 8" Jensen speaker (96db efficiency).

 

[KenG]

I think speaker efficiency is a bit of a misleading spec. It's taken at a specific frequency (1KHz) at a prescribed distance (1 M) with a defined level power (equivalent to 1W @ XX VRMS)because they can measure that. But that's a tiny piece of the picture and says nothing about the quality of the speaker, or it's response across the required band of frequencies. A speaker may well be rated lower efficiency at 1Khz but actually have a higher output at other usable frequencies. IMO the response graph that shows the relation of frequency to output is more informative.
That's not even looking at how it's mounted or the cabinet. BTW 3dB increase or decrease in output is just perceptable/noticeable and hardly a major change in volume.

 

[KenG]

I use a sound meter app on my phone just to get a quantifiable idea of how loud it is in the room. It is in no way scientific or accurate, but it allows me to put a number on what I think is a comfortable playing volume. For me, it is 95db or so in the room. Thats the volume of the 5F1 dimed through its 8" Jensen speaker (96db efficiency).

In order for your measured loudness to be comparable you should take it at one meter.

 

[Marshall & Moonshine]

I think speaker efficiency is a bit of a misleading spec. It's taken at a specific frequency (1KHz) at a prescribed distance (1 M) with a defined level power (equivalent to 1W @ XX VRMS)because they can measure that. But that's a tiny piece of the picture and says nothing about the quality of the speaker, or it's response across the required band of frequencies. A speaker may well be rated lower efficiency at 1Khz but actually have a higher output at other usable frequencies. IMO the response graph that shows the relation of frequency to output is more informative.
That's not even looking at how it's mounted or the cabinet. BTW 3dB increase or decrease in output is just perceptable/noticeable and hardly a major change in volume.

This is perfect.
My take on speakers being loud: high frequencies will hurt your ears in the room, low frequencies will go through the walls.

 

[edro]

I understand what OPie Taylor is looking for... However....

If I made my living gigging now, I would have JBLs in everything I own. Should be obvious the whys...

Low volume, I would get an attenuator or quasi iso box the amp (remember air flow air flow air flow air flow air flow air flow air flow air flow air flow air flow) or both.... I want me, guitar, amp determining tone anyway, not a cheap ass speaker.... Also, the circuitry needs to be in the range it is designed to be in normal operation for it to do da spanky stank...

Speaker can color the hell out of audio... When I pulled that Celestion POS poor ass excuse for a Frisbee cheap rack Rocket 50 and stuck in an Emi Private Jack, my Blackstar HT Studio was like a brand new amp...


Attenuator or partial iso box (see above about air flow) is what I would do...

Just tossing the above out there for consideration.

On a side note, if I ever buy an AXE FX, my two JBL PRX615Ms would be the output system....

 

[edro]

I rather think of mindfrigg as a legend myself.

An out standing Legend in his own mind in the field is a bit more accurate...

 

[Wrench66]

In order for your measured loudness to be comparable you should take it at one meter.

Comparable from one person or environment to another, true. That isn't what I what I was doing though. I simply wanted to set my rig up in my space, find a volume that was comfortable for me and then get some sort of measure of it. Then, when I change speakers or amps, I can objectively say which is louder in my space and application.

 

[Wrench66]

This might be a useful to the discussion here.

https://youtu.be/_NbDVCa5YQE

 

[Marshall & Moonshine]

This might be a useful to the discussion here.

https://youtu.be/_NbDVCa5YQE

That was a fantastic video. I like that guy a lot. He just seems cool.
And he may have just sold me on a Weber Mass.

 

[Wrench66]

That was a fantastic video. I like that guy a lot. He just seems cool.
And he may have just sold me on a Weber Mass.

He has many awesome videos!

I really like my Weber minimass. To be fair, others hated it. Maybe some amps don't play well with attenuators. Who knows. I think they are cheap enough to try and if they don't work well for you, you can always sell it.

 

[Marshall & Moonshine]

He has many awesome videos!

I really like my Weber minimass. To be fair, others hated it. Maybe some amps don't play well with attenuators. Who knows. I think they are cheap enough to try and if they don't work well for you, you can always sell it.

I've watched a bunch of his stuff. I'd be using it on my 2204, so I imagine they'll get song fine.
If I see a good one used, I might just grab it.

 

[KenG]

Comparable from one person or environment to another, true. That isn't what I what I was doing though. I simply wanted to set my rig up in my space, find a volume that was comfortable for me and then get some sort of measure of it. Then, when I change speakers or amps, I can objectively say which is louder in my space and application.

As long as you always measure from the same distance and axis you're bang on saying it'll still be a valid comparison in your own environment. I just mean the numbers (dB) mean nothing to us without some point of reference. Is the app an IPhone one and is it free or a marginal cost like the Peterson IStrobe app?

 

[Wrench66]

As long as you always measure from the same distance and axis you're bang on saying it'll still be a valid comparison in your own environment. I just mean the numbers (dB) mean nothing to us without some point of reference. Is the app an IPhone one and is it free or a marginal cost like the Peterson IStrobe app?

Yes i agree the numbers mean nothing, even to me really. It's a little more useful than "Geez thats loud!", but only to me It's an android app that is free.

 

[sonar]

When I originally built my 5E3 I had a Heritage Greenback (55Hz) which was rated at 98dB. Now I notice the same speaker is rated at 100dB on the Celestion site.

I now have a Celestion Blue in the same amp that I'm pretty sure was rated higher, but now is also rated at 100dB.

Between the 2 the Blue is significantly louder. Partly because of the tone profile and partly because it's simply louder than the Greenback.

So as mentioned - don't rely on specs alone.

 

[Wrench66]

I am a little hesitant to bring this thread back to life, but I promised I would report back after the speaker swap.

To refresh everyone's memory, I was using a Chinese made G12M greenback that was rated at 25 watts and 98 db efficiency. The amp is a Marshall 1974x clone and a 5F1 clone. The MIC greenback sounds really nice and I wasn't changing it because I was dissatisfied with the tone. I just wanted to lower the volume a touch.

I installed a UK made G12M rated at 20 watts and 96db. This speaker is noticeably quieter. It's not a huge difference, but it is noticeable, which was exactly what I was looking for. I don't have to attenuate as much, or at all sometimes, with the Marshall clone, and it sounds glorious!

I was really surprised at how different the two speakers sounded. The UK made speaker sounds... softer.... for lack of a better word, with more midrange than the MIC counterpart.

For those considering the Heritage 10 inch greenback, rated at 95db if I recall, the volume drop should be even more pronounced. Obviously YMMV, but this may work well if you are looking for a great, low volume speaker.

 

[cherrysunburst00]

I am a little hesitant to bring this thread back to life, but I promised I would report back after the speaker swap.

To refresh everyone's memory, I was using a Chinese made G12M greenback that was rated at 25 watts and 98 db efficiency. The amp is a Marshall 1974x clone and a 5F1 clone. The MIC greenback sounds really nice and I wasn't changing it because I was dissatisfied with the tone. I just wanted to lower the volume a touch.

I installed a UK made G12M rated at 20 watts and 96db. This speaker is noticeably quieter. It's not a huge difference, but it is noticeable, which was exactly what I was looking for. I don't have to attenuate as much, or at all sometimes, with the Marshall clone, and it sounds glorious!

I was really surprised at how different the two speakers sounded. The UK made speaker sounds... softer.... for lack of a better word, with more midrange than the MIC counterpart.

For those considering the Heritage 10 inch greenback, rated at 95db if I recall, the volume drop should be even more pronounced. Obviously YMMV, but this may work well if you are looking for a great, low volume speaker.

Nah, I think it's fine that you reported. Thank You. That is some really good info.

 

[Pwrmac7600]

Just change the IR you're using....

 

[cherrysunburst00]

Just change the IR you're using....

Aye Aye. You never stop (and that's a good thing, a compliment). Always gives me a chuckle Pwrmac. Thank You.