Let's See Your Jigs

pshupe

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I thought I already posted this, but I may have forgotten! I have a friend who has a metal shop and laser cuts 1/8" stainless. I asked him to quote me on this template for inlay work. He said $30, and I said YEAH! So here it is. I haven't used it yet but should work pretty well.


Cheers Peter.
 

pinefd

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Wow, Peter, that's awesome! That would be perfect for use on a pin router! Can he do custom orders?


Frank
 

pshupe

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yep - these are custom orders - they are small enough he just tacks them on to a larger job and charges me a small amount. This one was $30 and the headstock one he said is around $40.

Cheers Peter.
 

Frails

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You guys should organize a drop box fund to have some of these jigs made out of 6061-T6 alum. I'd be happy to model them up and dimension them out in Pro-E or SolidWorks once you can all agree on a design. I don't build guitars but was a Mechanical Engineer in my former life. So I can assist on facilitating the designs into a more production state....fine tune the design, proper pinning techniques, tolerances and such. Getting them fabricated would be a breeze.
 

j.six

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yep - these are custom orders - they are small enough he just tacks them on to a larger job and charges me a small amount. This one was $30 and the headstock one he said is around $40.

Cheers Peter.
That's pretty neat indeed. Do you use it with a pin router, or are they oversized enough to use with a bearing/bushing setup?

Sully
 

pshupe

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I haven't used it yet, actually. It kind of snuck up on my. I sent it to the guy to get a quote and then needed to make a decision quick whether to have it cut for the price. It is the exact size of the inlays. I have a dremel with a drill press attachment and expect to use a 1/8" carbide bit. It should work OK. If I had more time I would have oversized the outline to use a 1/8" shaft but a smaller cutting head. I am looking at getting one cut for the rectangular custom inlays as well so will test out to see the exact offset for the smaller bit.

Cheers Peter.
 

pshupe

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frails - yeah that is a good idea. It would be much lighter than the 1/8" stainless. I work for an architect so I do a fair amount of drafting and developed all the drawings for all of my templates. It is a great way to figure stuff out. I frankly don't know how anybody builds a guitar from just buying the Stew Mac drawing and to a lesser extent the Bartlett Plans. The Bartlett Plans are very good but I did a lot of work in addition to them to figure out almost every cut. It is better to learn on the computer screen than on the router with a $100 piece of maple.:)

Cheers Peter.
 

bruce bennett

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My headstock angle jig for table saw. looks crude and actually is crude, but works very nicely.





my fretboard glue up I-Beam.... its been milled flat on both sides to within .030 across the total of 7 feet. plus it is mounted in such a way that it can be rolled over to glue 4 necks on each side.





my top carveing jig.





my method of carveing .. nearly everything! necks, bodies, belly and arm scarfs.





fine tuning my carves..




obvioulsy I use Normal templates and such..but in reality.. pretty much the rest of it was by hand and eye.

 

dazzypig

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I've saved this thread to my bookmarks, so many great ideas here.

I've just found some small workshop space and I think I'm going to build that free-standing fretboard radius jig posted at the top of the thread, that seems like a brilliant idea!

Do you think there's any way to include slotting on the same jig?
 

EagleOnyx

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I wish I had some jigs man! I really want to make an overarm router jig. that would be the shizzle.
 

Claymore

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I have a few:
Fretboard Radius Jig:

Saddle Locator:

Binding Jig:

Troji guitar vice:
 

TKOjams

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I just finished up this cool little bridge jig.
I always have troubel getting the bridge posts perfectly centered so the bridge floats smoothly up and down the posts, but no more.:thumb:



I drilled a hole through the center of the post screws and out the top.



They're not centered perfectly at the top, but they are at the bottom where it counts.



I string up the guitar after the fret leveling using a trapese style tailpiece.
Slide the bridge around were it needs to be, set the intonation then place two nails in the holes and tap with a small hamer to mark the location.



After drilling the holes and screwing in the posts, the bridge just falls onto the posts without binding at all.



Perfect post placement.:applause: Something up until now I had yet to achieve.:thumb:

 


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